Mad Rabbit

Frosty, I have made a couple handfuls of blades, but nothing very complex nor anything custom made to a design. All my previous blades I allowed to form organically from parent material. This blade has right specifications and the desire for flair. I understand that is not a necessary element for a functional blade but that is the commission that has been presented before me. I've never had any luck with solid state fusion.

It does need to be hardened as it will still need to function as a knife in the ceremony. I believe the answer you gave of stay brite is the way to go.

Idea was to have a flat down the center of the blade. The knife itself is intended for ceremonial use, not for fighting of any kind. Especially not werewolves. Thanks for you help. When I get the project off the ground I will post my process and results here.

Thanks guys and sorry for being vague. My idea was to make a 3/4" Fuller down the length of the blade and inlay the silver to be flush. Blade length being 7". Planned on using 1080 for the blade. I don't own a die grinder or anything to electroplate with, just basic hand tools. But in the end the die grinder may just be the most coat effective way to go about it, may have to change my design though.

If this is in the wrong place, please be so kind as to move it.

I have been asked to make a dagger that has Sterling silver bonded down the length of both sides of the blade. The Caveat being that the blade still need to be functional (hardened and tempered). I would like to pick the collective mind to see if you know of a way that I can do this. My first thought was brazing, but that won't work. If done before heat treating it would melt and turn loose and if done afterwards it will draw out all the temper. Any thought? Thanks much.

I'll get the information from the barrel it came from while at work tomorrow. My initial plan was to use it to season (like cast iron) the blades as well, being as that is what was asked for. But it wouldn't be a big deal at all to do that during the tempering cycle with veggie oil. 

~The Mad Rabbit

I was given 4 gallons of food grade hydraulic fluid. I have some knives my mother in law wants me to make for an upcoming show she is doing. My question is, will it be safe to use as a quenchant and anti rust coating on said blades? Thanks in advance.

~The Mad Rabbit

In high school I was tig welding, using a piece of filler rod. Got done running my bead and went to flip my helmet up. The end of the filler rod was still at an orange heat when I pulled it out of my neck and inch to the side of my wind pipe. Won't be doing that again any time soon.
~The Mad Rabbit

I have made a couple of horse shoe hearts and make mine opposite the way yours are. The bottom point of the heart is the two ends of the shoe brought together. I take a horse shoe, fold in half so the two sides match up. Then I draw out the front of the shoe (where the front of the horses hoof goes) to a point, then the same with the heel of the shoe. Unfold and adjust as needed. Everyone has their own way.
~The Mad Rabbit

I had already found the books by ferguson and midgett, but they were both way out of my price range. $170 and $350 respectively. They have a copy of midgetts book for a reasonable price, but it's in German. My girlfriends mom works at SIUE ( a local university) and she is going to try to borrow their library's copy for me to look at. I appreciate the help gentlemen, and will continue my search.
~The Mad Rabbit

I have recently sprouted an interest in making mokume game myself. Haven't had a go at it since I've been short on spare time recently. But I was curious if there and any books or websites that are good references to learn how to make it. Any help would be appreciated.
~The Mad Rabbit

Seems to me the die configuration is set up like that to allow a long piece of steel to be hit square in the middle of its length. Just my 2¢.
~The Mad Rabbit

I do have to disagree a bit. I have a forge of very similar design, brake drum (an actual drum, not a rotor) welded to an inverted lawn mower deck as a table. 3 inch pipe for air flow and a stand. Could it be better, yes. But especially for someone just starting out, it will work. Making hooks and small projects. I've even made 2 knives with mine. In the middle of making a fireplace grate for my in-laws fireplace. If its what you have, work with it. I will agree however that the air inlet pipe is insanely too long and poses not only a trip hazard, but possible instability causing the whole thing to tip over. Take the plans he has, tweak them to make them work safely, and have fun. When you figure out what it is you want to do regarding smithing and you have found the limitations of your forge, redesign and make one more suited to your desires. Just my two cents.
~The Mad Rabbit

The top one looks like a Vulcan. Stamped 6 should mean 60 pounds. Maybe not top of the line but definitely a usable anvil. Nice score.
~The Mad Rabbit

Oddly enough my final project of last year was just the same thing you have right there, including the rebar handle. I never got around to finishing it due to work and weather. Ah well, just one more thing on the list for when the weather gets nice enough to get outside.
~The Mad Rabbit

Make a knife shaped object out of a rail road spike as payment for the anvil shaped object given to you. Seems like a fair trade to me.~The Mad Rabbit

Kyotie- that looms to me like it could be a vulcan or maybe am arm and hammer. A picture closer to the side, more focused on the cast symbol would make identifying it easier.
~The Mad Rabbit

I banked my fire to have a good mound of coke at the end of a forging session. Had done it many times before. It was still at forging temp 24 hours later and had to be extinguished with water. Never thought it would go for so long.
~The Mad Rabbit

The vulcan anvils are made by the illinois iron and bolt company from 1875-1969 in carpentersville illinois. The 5 indicates it is a 50 pound anvil. The 78 means it was probably cast in 1878. Just a little info about it for u.
~The Mad Rabbit

Thanks alot thomas and new jersey man. Ive had a chance to do more research and it seems many producers of the pins use 4140, so u were spot on mr powers. I had put it up to the grinding wheel already but ive never knowingly worked with any carbon steel so i didnt have anything to compair it to. Much obliged.
~The Mad Rabbit

At work we have a lot of rail cars come through. The other day the pin that holds the swiveling part of the knuckle broke on one of the cars. I have a piece of it about a foot long. Its between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Thought it could be good stock to make a small hammer out of but im not sure what kind of steel it is, or if it is even worth the effort. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks alot.
~The Mad Rabbit

I got 3 books. The art of blacksmithing by bealer, the travelling forge, and a museum of early American tools. Also got a humorous blacksmithing bumper sticker that I can't remember what it says at the moment. It's only 13 days til my birthday also so no telling what I'll get then. Love my girl and her family.
~The Mad Rabbit

I agree. It looks like the heel is missing, taking the hardy and pritchel holes with it. Can still be a very good anvil though. But only if the price is good enough.
~The Mad Rabbit

Thanks for the video like guys. Not having tv I was disappointed when I found out about the program. It was awesome. I found the silver smithing quite interesting.
~The Mad Rabbit

I picked up half a ton of coal semi locally( about and hour each way) straight from the mine in southern Illinois. $25.25 which was a way better price over what I had previously bought. $20 for 3 50 pound bags.
~The Mad Rabbit