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I Forge Iron

Cota

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Posts posted by Cota

  1. Hi guys, so I've been blacksmithing/blade smithing for 5-6 months now and have made a few knives. Surprising myself that I am very good at bladesmithing. I can make great knives already in the forge and I'm wanting a newer challenge. I want to learn to create Damascus steel. I know it's something that very advanced for a beginner smith to try. But I'd really like to try it. So what do I need to do to make Damascus I've found a steel supplier with 15n20 and I was thinking going with 15n20 and 1075 spring steel I read that in a blacksmithing book I have. Now I have a gas forge and I know how to do simple forge weld. My forge wasn't really designed to forge Damascus I don't think. You can find my forge at majesticforge.com and it's the artist deluxe 2 burner I believe that's what it's called for those of you who want to look. But Im getting a new welder in September so I want to know if there's anything else I need to get before I attemp to do this? I figure I need to get my forge around 2300? But I've never done this before so any suggestions on what temperature I should be going for and what setting I should be running? I usually run my forge from 8-25 psi it doesn't have blowers I just use the pressure of the gas.

  2. Hey Guys. 

     

    I recently got a new forge and its a gas forge using LP gas and i really would like to do some forge welding or pattern welding. but whenever i heat my steal up and try and weld it all it does is compress it but not like it should be. it continues to have seems and wont just go into a single billet after several hours of doing this i still could never get it to go into a single billet. so i was thinking maybe I'm not heating it hot enough. I typically run at 16 PSI and let it warm up for 15-20 minutes until i put my steel in, what am i doing wrong that wont allow a forge weld? what should I be doing to obtain forge welding temperatures?


  3.  

    Thanks lucky. I think I shall do a gas forge than at least for starts I may go to a coal forge later on. I think I'm set almost I have to clean up my shop and get things organized once more and then I should have any problems at least I don't think.

  4. My shop is 3,690 Sqft (square feet) and is open air 2 stories tall and plus some due to the roof designs. The precautions I've already taken I have 3 giant warehouse fans to move air around and bring fresh air in and bad air out I have 2 fire Extinguishers within 15 feet of me at all times. I have a 10" chimney in there also already thought that would be a must have. The chimney also has fans in it to push air out from my experience so far burning wood an charcoal under it, it takes all the smoke right out the pipe. If I'm not mistaken all heat gases rise so the CO gases and carbon monoxide gases will rise and be taken out by those three fans I mentioned earlier. From what you've just read what do you think and also do I need to take more precautions. Side note from which is safer which is overall cheaper at a size where you can forge knives swords art tools large items thick items etc (pretty big)

  5. New to blacksmithing and wanted to know the effectiveness differences between a gas propian forge and coal or coke forge I will be forging indoors so which will be best for that I know forging indoors is very dangerous I've taken all the procausions for it to be safe as possible

  6. Cota-
    I'm not sure who you could have talked to? As you can see on the SWABA website that anvil was posted on December 15, when word got out that one of the old members was getting rid
    of his tools, it probably looked like a hoard of locusts hit his house. I talked to him 2 days after the posting and there wasn't anything left. Be patient and ask everyone you meet if they have an anvil.
    I know in some of the old scrap yards, like in Clovis, NM you can occasionally find anvils or pieces of rail road track.

    I don't remember the name of the person but he said it was still currently available and that was not to long ago. But thanks for the tip. I've already found another I'm calling on it tomorrow and going to have it shipped to me. It's actually cheaper to have it shipped then to drive which is odd. I used to live in clovise thanks for the advice ill look there too!
  7. An anvil for less than $3/pound?  That's a good price.  To get a mint-condition anvil for less than $3/pound is a very, very good price!

     

    The edges, cutting table and horn all look like they've never seen a day's work.  Maybe it's the photos, but those are some seriously good lines on that anvil.

    My only worry is that anvil looks brand new.  I'm not saying that an "as new" anvil couldn't be found, and very few hucksters would go through the effort of welding up any dings in the horn and cutting table, so it might be a very very good buy.

     

    From my perspective, I would honestly consider the purchase.  A small anvil is a joy to work with, and is even nicer when it comes time to move.  Put that anvil on a heavy stand and bolt it down solidly, and it will act like a 300# anvil.  Brian Breazele does most of his work on a 150# anvil, and he can really make metal move!

     

    I would consider the drive down there simply as an excuse to get away for the day.  If the anvil is sound, has a good ring and no evidence of welding up the corners, it is very much worth the investment and you'll be able to recoup your money should you decide to sell it in a year or two.  Lighter anvils are always in demand, and one in perfect condition is very rare.

    thanks man i'll try and get a ride up there! i think i will be coming home with an anvil. the guy said he doesnt know when it was manufactured so it could very well be new idk if peter wright is still in business but maybe ( new as in last 10 year or more haha)

  8. Hey guys Cota here again,

    I was wondering if this anvil, the petter wright I found not to long ago. If its worth picking up for the price. ($275) it's 1-1-2 or 1-1-1 you can't exactly read the last number. He claims its around 120 pounds and it looks to be in good condition from the picture I have of it. To pick it up it'll cost my about $120 dollars to drive down to where its at Albuquerque New Mexico, USA I don't really want to pay $275 for it although probably worth that much considering the weight and visual condition from what I can tell. So I need some advice on it. Yay or nay here's a picture if I post it correctly maybe. Also if any of y'all have an anvil that you're willing to part with to a beginner blacksmith please reply with info. Thanks for the help have a nice day!post-39317-0-96159300-1367356630_thumb.jpost-39317-0-96159300-1367356630_thumb.j

  9. Here's a picture of the peter wright anvil that I've found it is the only picture I have of it, but I am not sure about where it is. I found it on Craigslist and he had it under three different towns but its still about 3 to 4 hour drive over either way and its a costly drive cause I drive a diesel truck and fuel prices are through the roof right now. And if I calculated it correctly it would cost I think around around $200 dollars I'm not sure though I've never really been good at math could cost less. So how should I play this now that you know more about what it going on.

  10. Hey guys, I'm a beginner black smith/blacksmith and need an anvil I've found a Peter wright 1-1-2 what's does that mean he's asking $275 for it and he says its 115 pounds is he asking a good price or should I try and go lower.

    It looks to be in good condition it has a nice face on it.

    Any thoughts on what I should do and look for etc?

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