Alphonse

Wow! $420, I still dont'understand what is so valuable aboutthis or any ny 10# anvil? Is it a collectable value? I have a 100# vulcan That I bought on the bay for $270 a couple 3 years ago. It was in very good condition.

Hi I Forge: What is so valuable about this a 10# small anvil? I read and re-read describtion and can't figure it out!

[To see click on :
http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649

Thats the ticket, Grant has got it, turn your welder up as hot as you can...max voltage and wirespeed and run uphill 30-45 degrees depending on what you can handle uphill. Keep gun square with the work. If that don't get it, the plate is too thick for your welder to properly weld it. IN ORDER TO WELD YOU MUST MELT and that takes Arc heat! 115v wire feed welders have a max of about 1/4"-5/16" welded this way. Any 240 volt wire feed welder should weld it uphill, if not flat, for sure.

Thanks Alphonso ! Heres how they turned outLet me know what you all think.
Cheers !

B>E>A>U>T>I>F>U>L looks they just grew there natural like!

Corrigan...I just want you know, incase you mised it in my orig. post, that my stand's finnish is as is where is, just power wire brushed and cleaned with a mild acid painting prep de-greaser.

Alfonso,

I forged a small stainless steel vase for my Mother a couple of years ago. I don't know what the alloy was. It was a piece of schedule 40 pipe. I forged it on my anvil with my normal forging hammer. No clear coat, no wax, nothing, and it looks exactly the same as it did when I completed it. It is an indoor piece. I think your stand will be ok.

I have a fire poker forged out of 1/2" stainless that I use in my outdoor fire pit. It stays out by the pit year around. No corrosion to date although it has changed colors from the fire in the unforged shaft area.

I also make various stuff from stainless sheet (18-20 gauge) mostly things for the garden. I've been tacking these together with my mig welder, stainless wire, and 75/25 gas. Occasionally, I'll get small rust spots where the welds penetrate the stainless. I've intended to get some citrisurf and try passivating, but haven't.

Just my .02, take it for what it's worth,

-Derek

Thanks guys...It is holding up well, I just thought It might have flash rusting after the heat and hammering. i did some searching on this site, and though I don't forge stainless often, tyurned out well. i can't afford to stock it, just found a few odd pieces of 304 to slice off.

I forgeIron guys/gals...longtime no post...say, I made this forged display stand out of 304 Stainless Steel [ welds also SS] for a Memorial Day display of my dear departed dad's WWII US Navy compass & a small photo. My question to the best of you is "will the stainless keep from rusting forever? I cleaned it after forging, with a power wire wheel, then wiped down really good with a commercial acid based metal painting prep stuff. It has been out of the fire, and out in test of rainstorms, sun for about 3 days now...no signs of rust. I want it to stay with the blackened forged look, indoors, without rusting. Thanks in advance! Best Memorial Day weekend wishes to all!

HOW BOUT IT GUYS...How does it look and WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT FORGING SS...LET ME HAVE IT ...WHAT SAY YOU?

I've used hand-forged stainless for decades in the kitchen with no post-forging treatment. Goes through the dishwaser after each use. Zero rust.

I forgeIron guys/gals...longtime no post...say, I made this forged display stand out of 304 Stainless Steel [ welds also SS] for a Memorial Day display of my dear departed dad's WWII US Navy compass & a small photo. My question to the best of you is "will the stainless keep from rusting forever? I cleaned it after forging, with a power wire wheel, then wiped down really good with a commercial acid based metal painting prep stuff. It has been out of the fire, and out in test of rainstorms, sun for about 3 days now...no signs of rust. I want it to stay with the blackend forged look, indoors, without rusting. Thanks in advance! Best Memorial Day weekend wishes to all!

Our deepest sorrow for such a loss...prayers for all.

I just posted a help full video where I burn test some E6011/6012/6013 rods to show the differences...see it at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0I6XylXwis

Pick up some 7018 AC great rod for about anything...Bob

I just made a video where I burn test a bunch of E7018/E7018AC using an AC welding machine! Take a look>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kPPCeNTIUs

All of the above. Buy a torch with cutting and welding tips and be on the lookout for a good deal on a buzz box.

I agree about the buzz box stick welder, as many have said, AC will do just about anything expensive DC, AC/DC welders can, and will weld more steels with sure welds than MIG.

Here is a video I just made outlining how well AC welding can do the job in a small shop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0I6XylXwis&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Very easy to prove shill bidding, collusion, ect....everything done on a computer leaves a footprint somehow...be careful out there, as they use to say on NYPD cop show!

On 6/13/2010 at 5:47 PM, Tim McCoy said:

Questions from a non-welder. I found a Century 220 volt 295 amp arc welder at a yard sale sans the leads for $50.00, 

Tim: I have the same welder, tho mine is the Cetury 250 Amp AC-DC output. Yours is a 295 amp AC only output.
you have 2 AC ranges- LOW & HIGH The LOW range has more arc volts for small rods, and hard to run AC rods like Low hydrogen 7018, stainless and hard surfacing. High range is for all dia 6011,6013/7014/7024 rods.
They were made in the 1980's, and yours looks to be in beautiful shape, used very little. They are very tough welders that give long touble free service. Base on how expensive new welders are today, YOU GOT A GREAT DEAL!. You will need a to wire it for 240Volt-60 amp [min] input. Mine will trip off a 50 amp breaker, if I weld over 145 amps. I had to install a 60 amp breaker to weld up to 225-250 amp. It will pop that if you weld more than the duty cycle of the welder[2mins, out of 10mins] Also, you need to use a #6 input wire size. Do not go over 30ft [both welding cables] use #2 welding cable[too long will cause voltage drop = hard arc staring.
Always lengthen the input power cable, not the output welding cables on Transformer type welders.

 

 

Prayers for Howard, a quick recovery, and to the family for sure.

Well, here's the start. Got my burnouts, wow, 300lbs each. Looking good. See if I have time to get one up in the machine this weekend. Boy, what nice cutting!

EGAD! When I first saw those 2 burnouts, It russelled up some reminice- had a bit of tear in my eye...When I worked at Warner & Swasey Co. in the machine base fab dept. the giant 3SC machine base had 2 counterweight burnouts just like that , that fitted between the bases 12 " channels ! The burn outs were coped on the ends fo fit the channel and were over 8 ft. long. They were a bear to fit and weld up.
THAT WILL BE SOME ANVIL! BEST WISHES ON IT FOR 2010!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone on/at I FORGE IRON!
Let's be thankful we can all "work hard"...that's what I want to hear! Prayers to and for all to be thankful.

If you drop something, lift your toes.

Flat toes get crushed, lifted toes get smacked.

I knew I had internalized this when I was showering off, dropped the can of shaving cream and my toes were up in the air before the can had hit the tub.

I have CRS [can't remember xxxx] I would have no toes left with this safety rule.

Any of you old-time farm / industrial welders out there know what this Lil' transformer like thingy on the back of this welder is? It looks like a small transformer hooked into the the primary 240 volt single phase input line. Is this to reduce current input amps? I thought they used capacitators for that? Any help apreciated. I have enough current capacity in my shop for the welder's rated 60 amp draw max., but if this thingy cuts it down, might as well leave it on? aTTACH]16691[/ATTACH]

Welder works great wired up without this 100# monster! Just would like to know if it is worth keeping around.

Any of you old-time farm / industrial welders out there know what this Lil' transformer like thingy on the back of this welder is? It looks like a small transformer hooked into the the primary 240 volt single phase input line. Is this to reduce current input amps? I thought they used capacitators for that? Any help apreciated. I have enough current capacity in my shop for the welder's rated 60 amp draw max., but if this thingy cuts it down, might as well leave it on know?

The sarcasm was there, I'm just practicing subtlty today.

Seriously though it's a good question. A lot of new comers don't know things we take for granted and where to draw the line between "hand" vs. "machine" forged has serious ethical ramifications.

I certainly don't claim to be the final word on the subject and others are welcome to their definition, like what any one person considers "traditional". Being able to articulate the what and why of your given position will help vindicate your marketing.

Seriously, would you tell someone who wanted 1 1/2" sq bar "hand forged" it was impossible or explain how having the cool end of the bar in your hands while a powerhammer did YOUR bidding was indeed hand forging?

Heck, precisely controlling a powerhammer and the iron takes more skill than hand hammering.

Frosty

As a new-bee at smith'n, I experienced this with my attempt to forge Pick-axe ends that are about 1 1/2 " sq. tapering down.
After 3 heats to almost welding "yellow" temperature and using an 8# short handle hammer until my right arm just about fell off...I could not move or shape very much...I see what is limited now!

B>E>A>U>T>I>F>U>L work, love that garden bench seat! You are gifted brother.

So what did spark testing your pickaxe head indicate on the carbon content?

Spark test almost looks like mild steel, but very dark orange colored sparks like 4140, sparks do not flare and arrow like high carbon file stock. You can see the cross section view..to me it looks and sawed like mild or low alloy steel [annealed] Now that I think of it, I don't think a hi manganese steel will anneal this soft, and not work harden when filed or hammered. Must be a med-high carbon like 1060-1070 as other poster suggested.
I will post pics of any forging of this, once I get an idea what to make and how to make it.

Here’s a pic, just be glad you cant smell it



I heard to try cleaning it out with kerosine but all I have on hand is mineral spirits and acetone can I use ether of those?

Also for now I’m going to use 10W30 oil till I hear something else

I have an old [40+ years] Logan 1875 10 " lathe
It was in good mech. shape when I got it , but like yours, it needed a lot of cleaning & lubrication.

First off, from all the lathe guys...forums... they say the same thing I learned in the tool room. Don't use DETERGENT [modern engine oils] they leave a sludge, they are meant for a running hot engine. The proper lube for the holes in the spindle[setscrews] is #10 spindle oil. If you must use an engine oil, you can get by with #10 or 20W NON-DETERGENT MOTOR OIL. If you must get it coated with something after cleaning and only have 30w OK but must be ND and ok for hot summer but won't lube the spindle bearings in cool 45 degree or less weather .
My Logan does have 1 zerk fitting on the back gear train...I just give it a shot or two with a good moly-lith. auto grease. you can use 30W ND oil on the gear train, leadscrew, in the apron, but the spindle would best be thinner oil. If you are doing a lot of work, and it is a good tight lathe and you want to keep it that way use "way lube" on the ways. It is a clear "sticky" oil that is much longer lasting under pressure.
If you have major rust, stuck chuck, back gear pin ect., like I did,,,use Blaster or Liq. wrench penetrating oil to free and lift rust. Diesel fuel it up later clean, then oil. Where you mentioned the oil drain plug... that is the apron reservoir. There are large cap screws on either side at the top of the apron. You remove either one to fill up the reservoir [only a pint or so] I would drain it, and if it is empty or sludgy, slosh some diesel in there, let it set a while and drain it.
I would look on E-bay for a Logan Manual. They are very expensive from the mfg. and can be found.
Yahoo has a Logan and South Bend lathe site...check it out...lots of good info.

Thanks for the info Hwooldridge: I think your right on just high carbon steel. I have an old Weise [1957] plow share point repair book that calls thier materials 70 point, 95 point, 100point carbon steels, and they were weld on's [back then they used gas welding and arc mild steel rods] with no problems...they never mentioned manganese. It just has been my exp in hardsurface welding that only the first layer of weld will pick up carbon and harden up, but on Cat track shoes, the hi-mang. just keeps admixtureing through the welds. Oh well, I can tell right now old pick-axe steel is a far cry better for hardy tools, chisels-drifts-and punches.