ciladog

It was never about that and you know it you're just trying to backpedal .

Never once did I say I was good or better or even on the same level . Don't put words in my mouth.

All it ever was, was there was just nothing else to call me but a blacksmith .

Seems everyone else has figured it out why haven't you?

You just don't don't get it. 

Feel better about yourself? That's a childish thing to do . Can't come up with a better plan so just bring me down .

But it still doesn't change anything, I am the lowest dirtbag on the bottom of the totem pole, but guess what that totem pole is called? The blacksmith pole I may be at the very bottom but I still am 1

And like Uncle sie would say that's a fact jack! Lol

Pugman,  Posting what I did was not to embarrass you but to give you a knock up side the head, wake you up.

 There are so many well accomplished blacksmiths, knifemakers, and artisans that are members here that deserve respect for their craft and by trying to place yourself, at your level of experience, at anywhere near theirs is an insult to them.

 A lot more used to post and don't anymore because as the years went on, the website became filled with people that think that if they make something out of hot metal on an anvil makes them somehow an equal and they are not.  These would-be blacksmiths offer advice and contradict the advice of those who know and don't have a clue who they are talking to.

Feel better about yourself? That's a childish thing to do . Can't come up with a better plan so just bring me down .

I think you are projecting here.

"Psychological projection or projection bias is a psychological defense mechanism where a person subconsciously denise his or her own attributes, thoughts, and emotions, which are then ascribed to the outside world, usually to other people. Thus, projection involves imagining or projecting the belief that others originate those feelings"

Now I know a lot of accomplished blacksmiths, have been tought by them and I collaborate with them on projects but I will never be or think that I am their equal.  There aren't enough years left in my life to get there.  It's about respect and you don't get it.

Forget the hammer, submit that to the jury.  Very nice

Interesting interpretation of "putting things in perspective"... I found the work obviously technically competent but pretty narrow (or at least focussed) in aesthetic range.

 

Alan

Alan,  This smith started as a farrier in 1979  then became New York City, NY's blacksmith and worked their until he just retired.  The work you see on his website is his personal work while he worked for NY.  You can't imagine what the diversity of his work for the City was.

The perspective is that he worked his entire working life moving metal.  Now he can make what he sees in his minds eye.  How many can say the same?

His first picture is of a steel butt I guess that could put things in perspective.

That is just too funny.  :lol:

Thanks ciladog, do you know of pics of what the back gear drive assembly might look like?? any change gears i can try to remake if i know what they look like.

Watch this video.  It is about an early screw cutting teadle lathe.  It is no where near as old as yours but will explain the parts that are missing.

http://video.pbs.org/video/2296983856/

I think we need to put this debate into perspective.

http://www.nyblacksmith.com/index.php?p=1_2_Gallery-1

Can you figure out which work was done by a blacksmit?

Matto,  That long screw that runs parallel to and below the lathe bed is a lead screw that engages with the carraige to cut threads.  The headstock has two gears on it, the large one (called a bull gear) could be part of a back gear drive along with the smaller one.  There would have been a small gear at the end of the spindle along with a bunch of change gears would move the carraige at different thread per inch.  So I think you are missing the change gears and the bracket/linkage that attaches them to the headstock to drive the lead screw.  You are also missing the back gear drive assembly.

It was a screw cutting lathe but you seem to be missing a whole lot of parts on the headstock end. 

Razzputin,   If I understand you correctly, you are using split ring lock washers to make your maille?  If that is the case, they are most likely hardened and tempered.  If you heat them up to a cherry red and let them cool down they will not be so hard to work with and you will still have the better spring steel.

BillyO, you make a good point but I think it has more to do with ego than protecting one’s livelihood.  This is the third time that I remember that a thread has dealt with the topic and it always comes out the same way.
 

There are those, for whatever their reason, need to see themselves in a certain light and I for one don’t care what they call themselves.
 

I will decide for myself, based on their work, their history, skill, etc., whether or not they are a blacksmith.
 

Now for the people that climbed up the ranks, served apprenticeships, worked 10, 20, 30, or 40 years at blacksmithing and made a living at it, it is all self-evident.
 

The others just live in an alternative universe.   

You twist them open ciladog. Toolish the rings I buy are pre-made and pre-cut 12 gauge spring washers that I get from the local hardware store. I do understand how the ring works and as I said I have tested that idea to the detriment of my finger. The ring works fine on smaller gauges of mild steel wire but not on spring steel.

Well then make one that fits like a braclet on all 4 fingers and hold it in your fist.

I need to understand how you chainmaille people open and close rings since all I have is experience with jewelry.  Do you expand the ring or do you twist the ring to open and close it?  I have seen tools that close an expended ring but that is not the way to do it.  Twisting the ring open and then twisting it closed is the easiest way.

Well I am using spring steel spring washers and at the moment I am using two huge sets of pliers to get the leverage to open them, because spring steel is as you can imagine quite strong. So I am looking for something to open lots at a time with. They aren't open enough just to slot them together otherwise I would not have asked. The opening is really the worst part of doing the chainmaille I do as it takes up a lot of unnecessary time. The ring idea i tested and as I said before about leverage and huge pliers, there just isnt enough between my finger ring and jump ring i just end up pulling my finger around without bending the jump ring at all.

I don't think you understand how the ring works.  It's the same as using a plier in your left hand.

Ciladog any chance of a pic or a sketch? I think I get the design but would like to be sure. I have some friends who are chainmailers and they use pliers. If there is another way and I can surprise the it would be a lot of fun.

There is pic attached below the post.  I would be happy to make them for you.

 

whut ?

Larry is one of my legs getting longer? :wacko:

My father was a jewelry manufacturer with lots of people working in the factory.  Literally millions of jump rings had to be opened and closed.  This is how they did it.

He had rings made for all the workers.  Simple ring of brass with a round head machine screw and a nut all brazed together.   If you were right-handed, you put the ring on your left first finger between the first and second knuckle and held the pliers in your right hand.

Core 20, is that the same thing as Corten?

I'm not sure of the name.  Could be corten.

I guess you must smoke at least two packs of Chesterfields a day with a couple of packs of Camels thrown in :huh:

Terrible thing smoking is but I love it.  But this has to be my last year.  Starting January 1, 2014, I will be charged an extra $5,000.00 for my health care policy because I am a smoker over the age of 60 according to Obamacare.    One more of my free choices out the window.

Next is going to penalties for occupational hazards like burning coal.  Mark my words.

yes, this is true, Ciladog, the paint does wear away when it is used but of course stays on the parts that don't get hammered on, (the sides mostly!), but I am finding it a better form of protection against rust than just oiling my tools, which I used to do. I also hate that when tools are oiled they seem to attract the dirt and dust. "Use them more", they say, but sometimes that scroll former or whatever will sit for six months without a need for use, so it gets painted too!

Colleen, I will never understand what people do to keep rust off their anvils or their tongs and the alike tools.  When it comes to blacksmith tools, it just seems like a total waste of time.  As soon as you start pounding on an anvil with hot metal the rust is gone.  Toungs work just as well with a coat of rust on them as they do without it.  It's not like your tools are buried in wet soil or stored in a drum of water.  They are tools and work just as well either way.  But each to their own.

To some people, it's about the tool and not the work that gets done.  And as I have posted before, a light coat of rust prevents further rusting.

Around here they use something I think is called core 20 steel to make highway guardrails.  It takes on a light coating of rust and stops oxidizing.  No painting, no galvanizing, and no maintance.

Bright anvils are a good idea, especially the horn. You are less likely to catch yourself on a brightly painted horn (obviously not the top).

 

Why not paint the sides of an anvil? See my other thread about rust forming more slowly on the alloy steel rhino anvils in the shop as compared with carbon steel anvils.

Painting an anvil, the horn or the sides, is like painting the face of your hammer.  If you actually us the anvil for forging the paint will burn off in short order.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RQXhaYK9YQ&playnext=1&list=PL1D5E49ECCD3CF01E&feature=results_video

I'm glad to hear that you got it all worked out.  Now go turn something.

Let’s split some hairs. 

Actually, son_of_bluegrass, kiln dried lumber is more stable than air dried lumber because of structural changes to the vessels of the wood fiber that the heat of kiln drying causes.  Once those vessels shrink from the heat, they will never go back to their pre-heat size.  Hence, they will never take up as much water as they once did.
 

What I said in my post is that kiln dried lumber is less hydroscopic than air dried lumber.  I did not say that it is stabilized wood.

I have more than 3,000 board feet of air dried lumber in my wood shed all air dried (red oak, white oak, ash, maple, walnut, hickory), some for more than 20 years, and when measured with a moisture meter, always between 14 and 9% (in my region of the country).
 

The wood gets to equilibrium moisture content (EMC) point and stops drying.  Depending on the relative humidity, the EMC changes a lot.
 

This is not the case with kiln dried lumber which is more stable.
 

Some examples with air dried lumber:

At 70 degrees F and 35% relative humidity the EMC is 8%

At 85 degrees and 75% rel. humidity the EMC is 14%
 

I can’t use my air dried lumber in my architectural woodworking business because it is more prone to significant dmension changes than is 6% kiln dries lumber when placed in a climate stabilized environment like a house.  I know this from 40 years of experience with lumber.
 

But you can check all this out in the Wood Engineering Handbook put out by the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory if you think I’m blowing smoke.

Well for you it seems to work.
 
This is not a rhetorical question.  I have had several names registered for a while but never published a website.  In these economical times, I am trying to decide to publish or not.
 
I have also had an Etsy account with little or not return.  Have any of you had success there?