ciladog

I never said that people buying insurance are paranoid. 

By the way, are you an attorney?  I could cull it out of your posts but did you say you were an attorney?  The esq in your username leads me to think you are an attorney.  Because if you are an attorney, I have a very bad opinion of attorneys.  You may ask why.  But If I were to tell you I doubt that the IFI website could handle the volume of my reply.  So let's not go there.

This website is about blacksmithing.  If you want to contribute something about blacksmithing then go ahead. If you want to talk about abstract probabilities or about spreading paranoia because someone makes a fixture, then why don't you go to one of your lawyer sites.

Don't take it personally, but this is also a sign of the times and I for one am sick of it.

I think the paranoia is getting a bit out of hand.  The fact that a hand made fixture, one off, must be UL tested or listed is just ridiculous.  And if it is correctly wired using UL listed parts and is designed correctly for heat dissipation then I doubt that it would cause a fire or be a reason that an insurance company could deny coverage just because it is present in the establishment where the fire occurred.  

It is not being sold to a mass market.  It is one fixture.  Plenty of people in the craft world produce fixtures and other art that included lighting and I can assure you they do not pay for a UL analysis, testing or listing.

Get a grip.

I sure found it useful.  Nice video.  Thanks

I think you did a very nice job.  BUT next time pay some attention to the symmetry of the hanger.  It does not hang vertical.  You should have put a gooseneck it.  But you already know that.

It's amazing what you can fit in under the guise of "public health and safety"!

Yes it is.  But it is not about "public health and safety"  or consumer protection.  It is about fees, money, protectionism, and lobbies. 

I don't want to hijack the thread but just pointing out the handwriting on the wall.  Give them a standard and they will find a way to extract $$ from you. 

I now have to maintain 3 licenses to run my business.  Every new jurisdiction I take a job in (like a new county) I need a new license at the average cost of $175 per year, not to mention the time you have to take off to go take some inane business law test that has nothing to do with the trade. 

 These are the times that we live in here in the good ol USA.

Just to keep everyone posted, I ended up running the wires along the inside of one scroll-arm, around the spiral, and up into the center cylinder (This was JimsShip's Idea - thank you sir!).  I attached the wire to the steel in three places each by putting a little acetone on the buffer wheel of my Dremel and buffing the oil off in small spots for a dab of Loctite super gel.  This stuff cures in 60 seconds and held the wires to the steel great.  If i didn't clean the spot off well enough (ie there was still Linseed oil in the area), the glue would not hold in the slightest and I'd have to re-buff and try again.  In the end, i think it turned out really well.  

Oh, and I had my neighbor (who owns his one electrician company) come by to make sure my wiring was legit and he said it looked great.  so it should be safe as well!

Thanks for your input fellas,

Lodestone

Did you include a ground lug welded to the fixture and a green ground wire to CYA?

Go ahead and establish a national standard to be a blacksmith.  Require different levels of proficiency, education, experience, and testing. 

Then get ready to be regulated by your government and find out that you need an occupational license to call yourself a blacksmith or start a blacksmith business.

New Jersey just added this one recently to a list that now contains more than 53 occupations.

Interior Design Examination and Evaluation Committee

Welcome to the Website of the Interior Design Examination and Evaluation Committee.

Welcome to the website of the New Jersey Interior Design Examination and Evaluation Committee. The Committee is responsible for protecting the public’s health and safety by determining the qualifications of interior designers seeking certification in this State, establishing standards for certification, and disciplining licensees who do not adhere to those requirements.

"Certified interior designer" is an individual (someone) who through education, training, and experience is skilled in interior design services for commercial and residential spaces and is certified by the Board and holds a current, valid certificate.

Unintended consequences!

Frosty,

In picture 4, is that what is referred to as a scissor tool?  Last month I had my first foray into metal spinning.  I made a scissor tool (if that is what it is called), spun a chuck and got to work spinning .040 cold rolled.  I now have an undying respect for metal spinners.  It is an amazing craft but now I know it takes years to learn.

One thing seems to have been overlooked.   Nice sconce plate .   How about showing us the finished sconce .   From the looks of the current work I expect it to be an exceptional  work of art.

Thanks Knots.  The sconces are finished and packed up for shipment.  There are 4, two doubles and two singles.  But I won't post a picture until the client has them and gives me a go ahead to show them.

Bruce,  Maybe so but I wasn't thinking of the safety issue when I posted the thread. 

It's not a modified Bull hammer.  I built this one from scratch and redesigned the controls from what Trozack had designed in the original Bull.  I can move the stroke of the head anywhere on the column and can adjust the length of the stroke as well.  How fast the hammer reciprocates is still controlled with the throttle exhaust valve.  So although it looks like I'm doing something risky I'm not.  I may get my knuckles wacked but I know that the dies will not close.

Any of the old Bulls could be retrofitted with these controls.  Here is a video that shows them.  I posted it shortly after the hammer was built.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMYEwkcgcXk&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=36   

You have done a very nice job and can be justifiably proud.

Thank you John.

 I'm glad you cleared that up..... B) .......I figured there was an unseen safety measure you were using but to the inexperienced it could seem like it's ok to hold tools in a power or treadle hammer that way and it's NOT. My mangled left thumb is a constant reminder to be very aware of what can happen when things go wrong.

Bruce, we all have   those stories if you've been beating metal long enough.  Some times things go wrong.  But if you are a thinking man (or woman) you anticipate the possibilities and move in another direction. You always knew who was the shaper man in a wood shop was by the missing finger :) .

So you think I'm a little wacko for holding that butcher in my hand?  Well, not to worry.  I'm not that crazy after all.

That is no stock Bull hammer.  I have the stroke set to about 1/2 inch below the top of the butcher.  If it gets knocked out, the head will reverse direction in about an inch and dies will not close. 

Just do a Google or Bing search for Baldwin locks.  Lots of places sell them online.

My hammer(s) which are Bull knock offs will do what you did in your video.....But I would never hold a chisel in my hand doing it.

Bruce,  I also would never hold a chisel in my hand under one of your hammers. :wacko:

Jim Coke's hammer looks like a fancy Zipmax don't you think?

Greetings Ciladog,,

 

Yep... I normally do things like that on my P6 flypress ..  I designed a special hammer for chasing and repousse... Its one of a  kind ..  The table floats hydraulically and is controlled with the custom air hammer at the same time...  And that just some of what it can do..    And that's no bull so to speak.

 

 JIm

Jim, looks good but I don't understand what you mean when you say that the table floats hydraulically.  Could you explain?

I'm working on some sconces and I had to chase the back plates.  Here is a video about chasing on the Bull hammer.  There are not many hammers that can do this.  Does yours?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EptyplO_sw&feature=youtu.be

Not so much these days.

For those lathe and machine heads out there I'm posting a series of videos I made while upgrading and repairing my Atlas lathe.  Mostly trials with some tribulations to get the job done.

In part one I am boring out the apron of the carriage for a bushing to repair a sloppy hand wheel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPzznLTxJ94&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=2

In part two I am replacing the die cast gears in the apron.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAZ3YS_DOuU&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=1

In part three I am machining a new carriage feed bracket from aluminum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhbUrQaezXA&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=4

And in this last video I am adding a DC drive to the lead screw in preparation of adding a quick change gear box to the lathe. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-NV6JhzIw&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=3

There will be more to come as the project continues.

Is the check valve on your supply line or on the hammer control circuit?

I would like to help you but I don't know what you are looking for.  What kind of hammer do you have?  A picture would be helpful.  First you mention check valve and flow rates and then you speak of poppet valves.  While a poppet valve could be used as a sort of check valve, I don't think that is what you mean.  Perhaps you are looking for a spool valve?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5-port-directional-air-control-valves/=mdyumn

Click on "Air operated air control valves"

First off, what is the thread size?  You said 3 inch but you didn't say how many threads per inch.  You didn't say what the length of the threads are.  You didn't say what the diameter of the chuck you want to mount is. 

You don't need a foundry to make back plates if you have a thread cutting lathe and you know how to use it.  You can turn them out of mild steel.  Post some specs and I'm sure there are a few people that will offer to make them for you.

How about old school, use brazing tongs.  Brazing tongs have hefty  blocks of metal at the ends.  You heat them to a good  red heat and clamp them over the band saw joint until either silver solder or brass brazing rod melts. 

First grind a long scarf on the blade ends and fix them in a jig.  Hammer the brazing material flat into a thin wafer.  Put some flux in the scarf joint along with the flattened brazing material and then clamp the tongs over the joint.

@ ciladog I make my own charcoal and will build a furnace once I confirm i have ore. Are you one of the guys who was in ore to axe your setup looks very similar.

No I was not in the video but I have participated in one of Lee's smelting classes at Peter Valley 3 years ago. The pictures were of that smelt.  And I went to observe the smelt last year.  A very good time both times.  Lots of ice cold beer to cool off while charging the furnace. :)  :wacko:

Do you know about the tradition of biting the stem off a hot chili pepper and throwing it into the bloomery at the start of the smelt?  If everyone that is there charging the furnace doesn't do it you get cast iron.  And you have to eat the pepper to make it a successful smelt.