atakach

sure is alot of work, i hope this is one that will open new doors for me. The carving and sculpting of steel is a major interest to me, just not time to concentrate on it as much as i'd like, but hopefully you will see more of this type of work over the years to come thanks all -andrew

This is one I have been working on Off and on for a while. It is 1095 and 15n20 twist I welded up. After welding I surface ground the bar and started carving the billet to what I have now. There is still alot of polishing, aand all has to be done by hand , so as to not wash out the lines of the piece. I hogged most of the material off with carbide burs, and then used alot of little files and different sanding pads and blocks. Here's what i got so far: Roughed out After I cleaned up and evened out the sides. Starting to sand out the tool marks

the previous poster that said they only penetrate to certain depths is incorrect in my opinion, these were done professionally, and are 100% stabilized the whole way through. One way it is obvious is that they were larger pieces and ground way down, the dye is just as vibrant in the wood as it was before ground. They are done i believe with a combo of heat,vaccuum, and either acrylics or polymers. these particular pieces came from www.arizonaironwoods.com thanks all andrew

Here are 5 that a customer ordered for Christmas gifts, I thought they came out really cool. Even though the pic isnt very clear, the pattern in them was real nice and had great contrast. They are 1095 and 15n20. They all measure between 6 1/4'' - 7 1/4''. The handles are (L to R) , snakewood,ironwood,buckeye burl,camel bone,box elder burl. All the woods are stabilized.

thanks all, and ill give ya a ring tonight cuz

Got another pic of this one, this one isn't much better, but it shows the whole package. I called it the "MAZONA", It is a ladder pattern blade and blued damascus guard, with desert ironwood burl handle. Sheath was made by Robert Jones. The overall is about 20'', with a blade of 14''. The steel make up is w1 and 15n20 thanks for look'en and a couple close ups while still in progress not wet in the pic, wood is just as sanded to 1500, i then buffed lightly on the buffer once it was done

yes, i believe this is true, low alloy steels give most activity thanks bud andrew

thanks bud much appreciated

mrkiddi, i wouldnt go that far im sure you do terriffic work, i just take lousey photos so you cant see the flaws as well!!! ha ha as for details, well it took long enough to gather pics, let alone add descript for all. As for the carved handeled piece, it is a frame handeled construction. Frame and all hardware are wrought iron. the blade is wrought iron and W1 san mai. The scales are ebony, and were hand carved, with some rotory tool assistance, then textured by hand with a lil tool i made from some drill rod. if you have questions or want specifics on a particular piece, just lemme know, id be happy to elaborate farther. thanks again andrew

Well, some of you may or may not have seen these pics already, if so sorry to bore you, everyone else i hope you enjoy some of the lastest pieces I have completed.

thank you sir, much appreciated

wouldnt say im on any "wagon", kinda just do my own thing, but thanks bud

very flattering my friend, im still learning everyday :)

thanks bro

ha hah ha , funny stuff, thanks alot bud, i appreciate the kind words ;)

I forged this from a billet of 700+ layers of 1080,1018,w1, and nickle wire. The nickle wire was coiled around 1080, but there isn't enough in there to effect the cutting ability. This is a wrap around style hawk, i used a hawk drift to open the eye up and give it a taper, so the handle is just a friction fit. It is not permenatley fixed, to allow disassembly for transporting, or to replace a broken handle. It measures 15 1/2'' over all. The head is 6 3/4'' to the back of the eye, and the cutting edge is about 2 3/4''. The hawk is hafted in curly maple, and has a hand rubbed oil finish.

thanx all.. u 2 cuz

thanks my friend

Built this for a fellow forum member. it's Wrought iron - W1 san mai , carved and textured ebony. All other hardware is textured wrought iron. All wrought iron is from England....not that it makes a difference, just figured i'd add that in. Sorry for poor photography thanks for looking andrew

im thinking model # INL006, BUT WITH IN A DIFFERENT COLOR

if you have concerns, thread the tang or if it is to short acr weld an all thread onto it . depends on if it is ment to be a hard use knife . if so, i probably wouldnt trustt epoxy (i.e. chopper etc)

Gene, his name is Robert Jones, his website is www.handsewnleather.com, the site wasnt working the other day but if you google him you can find his work on some forums. many thanks andrew

yes sir, i do everything myself, but i recently have been sending out for sheaths.

thank you my friend, much appreciated andrew

thanks so very much for the positive comments, they are very much appreciated. andrew