itsme

The "why" has already been explained in this very thread. More than once. Multiple times, even.

My apologies, It seemed that there was a less than complete understanding. MY experience is there is more than a minor improvement in performance.

I did explore the purchase of a block of tool steel, but only buying 18" really ended any intrest my local supplier had in selling to me. Luckly, the time spent grinding can be written off as learning. I have been eyeing some "new stock" at the Nimba web site. It comes much closer to the size and shape of the item I desire :) I even have a trip planned to WA in June!

Lie Nielsen has been using a double tempered chryogenically treated a2 for his plane blades for 10 years or so.  It outperforms any blade material I have ever used, it terms of edge holding and chip resistance. More anecdotal evidence, to be sure, but I have tested their cryo blades against anything I can find. Cutting full width .003 shavings from maple, it provides twice the life of non cryo a2. I will leave the "why" to the more knowledgable

I'm in over my head in this discussion, but Frosty's explination is the most cogent I have encountered. The only thing I have ever forge welded is the axel of a trailer when I failed to grease it. I am trying to understand what is required, so I will ask this question:

If I heat rod up enough, I can hammer it from round to square, or draw it out. If I want to fold it back on itself, is anything else required besides heat and pressure?

Again, if I am asking in the wrong place, just ignore the post.  Thanks for your discussion.

I have seen the smaller striking surface on larger anvils, called an "upsetting block". Just to clarify the location of the base rail's exposed surface.

Tell me this, am I "wasting" tool steel for the base? I have lots of 1/4" wall 4 x 4 and 4 x 8 square mild tube that I could use instead.  Will weight in the base signifigantly effect performance? I was planning on using two vertical cuts of the rail, with the top rail exposed for another hammering surface. The aso weighs ~70#, and the cuts would be about the same.

1/2" ?

I did consider adding a hardy hole, but the rail is only 2 3/4" wide, and making one less than an inch would just leave me with hardy tools too small for my future real anvil. It is pretty hard steel, and I doubt I could cut a square anyway.

Addin a pritchel would not be too dificult. I didn't know if it would be useful, and I am not sure where to put it.

A while back I posted that I was looking for an anvil. I decided to take the offered advice and find a piece of rail to pound on until the right anvil came along. Turns out salvage rail can be had in virtually any quanity for $.25 pound in my neighborhood, (and coal is $40 a ton...but no anvils!) so I bought a 3 two foot sections.  Unfortunatly I have few proper tools for metalworking, so I had to grind the crown and shape/cut it with a belt sander and angle grinder. I am planning to use the other two pieces vertically as a base for the rail. Any suggestions for improvements?

Thanks Dave,

 Spring will be here soon, and I will have some colloidal silica shipped.  I really appreciate your help!

Randy

Dave,

  Could you tell me the purpose of the Colloidal silica and Zirconium mix before the refractory layer? I am inclined to just blindly follow your instructions, but it might be useful to know what good it does.

Also continental clay suggested the sodium silicate as a binder for the Zirc. Silicate, and I would like to know if you think this would work. I havent had much luck finding the Colloidal silica, and it is hard to keep anything from freezing while it is being shipped to Montana. Thank you!

Randy

Thank you for your input, I am still looking, and I do have a few small steel blocks that I can clamp in a crappy cast vice that came with my house.  I should have the forge I am building up and running soon. Then I can start mangling the steel at my disposal!!

Congratulations! It is nice to hear a successful anvil acquisition story!

Very nice videos, I incorporated many of the design ideas and coating processes into the construction of my forge

They are actually easy to make, if you have woodworking tools. I make them with a spokeshave, but I can't compete with any of the listed links.  I just don't like to wait. 20 would take a while...

1-800-260-6455 to The House Handle Company, I don't know what you consider cheap...last time I bought one they were around $5. That was several years ago

That is some spear!

Did you forge the ar400? I'm wondering how hard it was to shape, since I have some left over from the dueling tree build...

Thank you for your advice, I decided to pass.  I have actually been looking for a while, and besides light harbor freight cast anvils, or insanely high priced ebay + shipping, I don't see it happening. Same old song, right?

I think I have successfully updated my profile now...let me know if there are any options in my area. I have $250 to spend

Thank you for your suggestions, the seller has not offered a price, but it will definately be under $100. I will keep you updated.

I am new to this site, and this is my first post. I have been trying diversify my metalworking skill, and one item I have been unable to find is a good anvil. I live in Montana, so my choices are limited, but this is the best thing I have found. Is there any chance this anvil can be repaired, and is it usable in this condition? I know it is cast, and it is badly broken, but the hardy is intact (sort of). I have not actually seen it yet, just the pictures (it is not in my town). The seller tells me it weighs 100#