KjZitur

I run my MZ75 on a 20 some year old C'aire 5hp two stage with a 80 gallon tank with 17cfm........

Thanks Dan, Matt. This hammer worked nice for me at 40-60 psi. As for the lines on the sides of the dies.....your guess is as good as mine.....the dies were on the hammer when I got it...

I finally had some time to finish this project. Nice little hammer, I am going to miss it............

what size are the dies on this hammer??

Hey Bruce, interesting hammer design with the two cylinders. I will be looking forward for the results of your before and after power hammer tests..........ken

Hey Jim, that would be a blast making small iron out of big iron!!  The hammer needs a bottom die though.........

Here are some pics of a 1500lb. Morgan Steam Hammer on display at the Rolag Steam Threshing Show grounds. This is like the one I operated when I worked for the railroad. Unfortunately they don't do any hot work under this hammer, just use it as a drop hammer for stamping some aluminum plates................

Sure can, Javan. Can you post or email me a few side view pictures of your hammer.......

Danger, I am wondering if the things I have observed  with my style of steam hammer linkage would apply to your Chambersburg in regards to single blows and reciprocating motion. I think they would as both systems are similar.  I apply pressure to the motion (directional) valve ( I use a spring) which forces the tup down and spring pressure on the treadle to lift it up which, through the linkage, forces the tup upward. What I have found is to little spring tension on the treadle and the tup will not lift all the way up. To much spring tension just makes it harder to push the treadle making precise control of the tup more difficult. Less pressure on the directional valve makes the hammer reciprocate easier with less psi and makes for a  longer hammer stroke, but makes bringing the tup down smoothly for that single blow more difficult. More pressure on the valve gives you a smoother down stroke but requires more psi, shortens the hammer stroke and also speeds up the bpm.

That's my 2 cents (which is real only worth about 0.0002 cents nowadays!!)

here's a quick video of a test run.

are you able to get the hammer cycling when you have the hammer set this way? In your video, your hammer looked like it was reacting like my set-up does when I have it in the treadle hammer mode, I am able to get it reciprocating

but it is a little harder to accomplish.

Danger, you say you have the treadle connected to the motion valve. Do you have a spring on the treadle to keep the treadle in the up position to keep the hammer from cycling?......

Did a test run on the Bull hammer today. It needed 55psi to get it going. Hit pretty good. Cranked it up to 95psi and really made it rock!  At the 60psi setting I was able to pound a cork into a bottle but it will need a little fine tuning. Will post a video asap. Mark, I don't have any way of knowing if it hits harder than the original one, maybe you will be able to tell me after I get a video posted. The cylinder on the KZ150 is a 2-1/2" bore. I am running my hammers with a 5hp 17cfm compressor with an 80 gallon tank. Yes it is the same kit for either hammer

doc, that is certainly possible. I did not see the hammer in operation, all I know is what the owner had told me..........

There is no spring on the bottom side of the cylinder. There appears to be about 3/4" of stroke left in the cylinder when the dies are touching. There is however some rubber bumpers on the top side of the tup that the PO had put in place due to the hammer trying to "beat itself to death" (the way he described it) with the original Bull hammer linkage.

         The way the cylinder is mounted on this hammer the quick exhaust valves would be dumping air almost right over your work when forging so I thought I would try without them. Not to hard to put them on if it doesn't work. Had a little time to finish the treadle. Now I just need to hook up some air and see what happens.........

          If the snow ever melts around here and warms up a little I will get some pictures of Joe's steam hammer. Actually  I am trying to get the local pioneer club here to purchase the hammer and set it up in the blacksmith shop on the show grounds. At least I would be able to use it once a year!

       Got the plumbing done. Decided to redo the treadle. I am keeping all the pivot points for the treadle and linkage on this hammer the same as on my KZ100. The only major difference then is the cylinder which has a smaller rod diameter and as macbruce pointed out is inverted. Yes John,this style of linkage set-up is easier to set up on the  "C" frame types of hammers  than the sword or wiper style. The sword style I had made for some R&D had a few less parts but was a little more troublesome to attach the roller (that engages the sword) to the tup.

       Danger, a fellow down the road a ways has a 700 lb. steam hammer just sitting there but my financial adviser (read wife) hasn't come around to my way of thinking yet!

I recently acquired an old Bull air hammer. The previous owner had been having some problems with this hammer and was ready to let it go. I figured it would be a good candidate for mounting my KZ Control kit. Here's a few pix of the start of the project.........everything tack welded and looking like it should work!.......

Back in the late 70's I made a set of dies for my newly acquired 25lb. Little Giant. Made them out of a follower block from a boxcar which is 1045. I ran tons of 1/2" square through those dies.  I'd say they held up pretty good. They are still in the 25....

Had a little time to kill so I thought I'd post a video of my Fairbanks pounding out some seam wedges for a local granite company. Using 1" round 1144 to make a tapered wedge 1/2" thick x 1-1/4"wide x 10" long..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHrxlR66Mj0

thank you for the compliment woody, I appreciate that. Just remember that perseverance can do many things a genius cannot..............

John, I will also be looking forward to see what you come up with in regards to steam hammer valving. For me it was a lot of sleepless nights of tossing and turning and going out in the shop at 3:00 in the morning to stare at my hammer and ponder all the possibilities.(but then nobody has ever accused me of being a genius!!) It also became addictive!  Sometimes I would just have to quit whatever I was working at the moment, turn the air on and just watch my KZ100 cycle up and down for a minute or two, get my little fix and then I could get back to work. That only lasted for for about 8 or 9 months. Steam hammers and hammers with steam hammer valving are truly a joy to operate. You won't be disappointed.

hey woody, the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem!!!

Here is a video shaping 14 gauge sheet metal into a ferrel that I use on bark spuds. Used to do them by hand but this is quicker and easier.......

Hey Danger, I know the feeling. I thought for a while I might have to start going to support group meetings! I would just quit whatever I was doing, walk down to the blacksmith shop, turn on the air to the hammer, step on the treadle and just watch it go up and down for a minute or two. Didn't even pound on anything! After I would get my "hammer fix" I could then I could get back to work.