mattjayne9090

Alright, I need a 10" contact wheel for the grinder that I am working on, but I am pinchin' pennies. Does anyone know of a cheeper alternative with close to the same quality? I've checked out polyurathane, but I am afraid that it will melt or wear to quickly. I've also looked at the grizzly 10" contact wheel, but I need one with bearings.

So, I would love to hear your advice!

i have experiance with those treadmill motors but if your looking for one you want the the dc motor so it is controlable if your not familer with them if you look under the mill at the motor its small and there is a circit board by it don't under estimate them small motors most are 2-3 horse the grinder i'm colecting parts for im using one on it i have one on my logan lathe but at this moment its all apart as im rebuliding it if you need any info on them motors pm me on here and i'll try to help you in that direction just remember if you find a treadmill take the holething as you will need the motor and the controler and wires the motor are real simple to hook up most that i have goten have wireing diagram by the motor as i have about 6-7 motors and controlers

awsome! It's going to take me a while to get my beast running, but I will have pics up when it's done.

How hard should I order my wheel to be? I've never used a knife making grinder, so I am unsure. Click here to see the scale sunray inc offers.

I should probably start a new thread for this, but Im just gonna throw this in here. Does anyone have any advice or experience using treadmill motors and their variable speed drive? what's their hp? drive shaft size? do's and don'ts?

thank you so much for your advice!

I'm planning to build my first grinder, but when doing some research I found out how much contact wheels cost... ( I'm a broke as a joke college student, so $275 on a wheel is a bit much for my wallet.)

But yesterday I found sunray, inc. For an 8" wheel it is $75! click here to see it.

the only thing I don't know about is that it is polyurethane. You can choose the hardness of the rubber. The scale goes from 60A (soft as a car tire) to 80A (hard as a tap washer) and then up to 70D (hard as a gold ball).

Please let me know what you think. it would save me a ton of cash if i could use this wheel.

nope, chopped it out of a big ol hunk of steel myself.:)

I only use a bench disk grinder, a little Task Force belt grinder, and files.

I then heat treated it by quenching in water and then went over the handle and spine with a toarch.

1065 1/4"

i'm actually going to give it to my dad for father's day.

thank you everyone!

yeah, i was getting really tiered of my work going into the junk ben.

thanks,
Matt

i am using 1065 1/4" flats, quenching in brine water (room temp), i am quenching at about 1800, and my edge is down to about 1/16".

ok, i need help.

everytime i've tried to clay temper my blades, they cracked.:mad:

could someone please tell me something to solve my problem.

thank you,
Matt

does anyone know or have any info on how to cast copper fittings?

heres a great place to buy the suplies you'll need.

http://www.japanese-swords.com/pages/silk.htm

hmm, what if i mixed the Mizzou with the Kast-O-Lite?

just an idea.

thank you for your advise.

I am mainly going to us it for forging knives and such.

i figued it all out and the walls would be about 2" thick.

I am debating if I should completly cast a forge out of Mizzou castable refractory.

what do you think?


thank you,
Matt

yeah, i checked out "ellis custom knifework" and i'm really impressed!

thanks oakwood!

Ok, i'm a beginner and i am having alot of trouble finding some steel to work with. i am mainly trying to find some 1060, but i'm not having any luck!

could someone please help me out!

thank you,
matt