Badger1875

Hi J,

nice job, looks very compact....

What kind a pump and motor are you using? I really like to know about the conveyance mass per turn of the pump and the hp and voltage of the motor. How big is the cylinder?

Thanks for sharing!

 

Freddie

Hi folks,

I finally found out how to upload something, sometimes you don´t see the woods cause of the trees....
Well, the motor calculation in the excel-sheet is done for german/ european standards, you might change the power-calculation to 110/ 220 volts for american specs.

The calculated power of the electrical motor might seem a little high, but if a quality moter is used, you can split the power to half, because the press is working in a pulsing mode and the high power is not needed all the time forging. I run my press at 25 tons (calculated) with a 7,5 kW motor.

The motor will get warm/ hot during running, specially if you use lower power motors, the temperature might get up to 200 to 220° Fahrenheit, a good motor can handle this. I never reached a higher temp than handwarm.

 

Freddie

hydraulic pump english.xlsx

Hi Folks,

give me a little time, Andrew talked already to me and I`m going to make some pics of my press, hopefully this weekend. I´m giving bladeforging classes and I´m completely booked out, so my free time is very less, but I already started on some documentation on my press.

If somebody has defined questions, mail me your phone # I will give you a call during the afternoon in US (I call from Germany) Nighttime is easier for me to find some spare time....

Freddie

Now that's fast Badger! haha, maybe a little too quick for me. One thing I have noticed watching presses with the 2 stage pumps is that some of them pause once they have made contact with the material before engaging the low gears. This sucks a lot of heat away yet some of them hardly look like they are slowing down at all. Not sure if it has to do with the pump or something else.

 

Thanx, but speed is the most important thing! You already recognized it, a slow press sucks the heat out of the material and this is contra-productive in making damascus steel.

If you use a two-stage press, the first stage goes with about the double conveyance-mass than on the second stage, this is why the piston slows down. The ratio depends on the setup of the pump.

 

If you are calculating, think about: double speed needs double horsepower to reach the same pressure! When it comes to building up pressure, the pump itself changes to half or less of the conveyance mass to handle the upgoing pressure with the same horsepower. I have an excel sheet for calculating speed, pressure and conveyance mass, but I don´t know how to upload it, mail me your mail-address, I send it to you...

 

Freddie
 

Hi folks, I have set an excel-sheet for hydraulic calculation, but I don´t know how to upload it here, any hints? If someone want´s it for testing please mail, I will send it to you. There is only one to say: all units are metrical using german specs. greets from Germany Freddie

Hi folks, I build my 4th hydraulik press and ended most likely satisfied. It goes up to 22 tons, the speed is about 3,3 sec for a 4 inch down and up stroke and it runs on a 7,5 kW 3-phase electric motor. The press gives me enough power for forging and drawing a 6 pound damascus billet. If I intend to do so, it will go through a good warm 2 inch steel rod in one stroke. There are a few vids on youtube, check

and watch part 1 to 7. If you have questions feel free to ask! Greets from the icecold Germany... Freddie

If all of your polishing is easy to get at. If there is any intricacy to the piece you run the risk of catching a too close edge.

I know exactly what you are talking about! It happened to me about 3 1/2 years ago:
Was in the shop and had to polish an old carbon steel blade, cause that time I didn

Very handsome. I like the whip too, any info on it.

The whip is selfbraided, about 11 ft long and at the thickest diameter close to 1 1/2". It

Forgot to tell you about the hardness and the weight: it

This will be mine...

Material:
Blade: Damascus made of mangan alloyed steel (90MnCrV4 or 1.2842) and pure nickel with 126 layers
Handle: Grenadill and ivory from a mammoth tusk again (yup, they gave me a piece again... )

Measuring:

Blade:
Length: 7" (~ 180 mm)
Width: 1 1/2" (~ 37 mm)
Thick: 5/32" (~ 4 mm)
Length overall: 12" (~ 300 mm)

The sheath will be ready in a few days....

....hope you like it?

Badger

@ Nitro

well, carbon fiber is carbon fiber and mammoth tusk is mammoth tusk.

The sorts of steel used for this blalde were a mangan alloyed steel, nickel alloyed steel and some slices of the 105 mm barrel from the famous Leopard tank from the German Army.

Badger

Kaowool in Germany is available under the name Silcaflex. If you follow this link, it will get you to a pdf-document, covering the complete wool sector form Silca!
If you click here, you will reach the main page of them.

Like I offered you to help you out with the coating, so I will be able to help you out with the wool. The problem with Silca is, that they won

And again something new out of my smithy
.
It had to be something with damascus steel, carbonfiber and a small piece of mammoth again.
A guy at the shooting range I

Where do you get mammoth tusk? To they farm raise them in Germany? Nice job.

Where from? Correct guess! My next door neighbor does. He herds a small flock in the next valley up north from my house. Whenever I need a piece, I walk over with a saw and get me what I need, afterwards I pay them with a bushel of oats or a bale of long cut alfalfa hay. Never had problems with them, really good folks. Every now and then I get over there, we have a good time. My kids go for a ride and when they have time, they help me out in my lumber biz, too!!!
:p:p

No, just kidding! Good stuff from Siberia, prime A quality and fair price.


Badger

Is there a word better than outstanding?

I will not even think of comparing my first blades with this one showed from you!

Congratulations!!!


Badger

The sorts of steel used in this damascus billet were a mangan alloyed steel, nickel alloyed steel and some slices of the 105 mm barrel from the famous Leopard tank from the German Army.
The small blade is with a small pyramide and the bigger one with a ladder design.

Glad you like them!


Badger

After a very long time bladesmithing and knifemaking, I made a pair of neckies for my wife and me:



Ivory from mammoth tusk and 300-layer damascus steel, with a layer of red and blue fiber on each side with German silver pins.
the bigger one is 7 " long, 1 " wide an 1/8 " thick, tip and edge are zero

the smaller one is 6 " long 1 " wide and 3/32 " thick, tip and edge are also zero

In former times I never had the money to buy some of my knives... :D:D


Hope you like them...


Badger

Hello Johannes,

I don

I take up Glenn

Hi Dave,

I used the ITC 100 and it was a pain to get in Germany, till I got in contact with Anvilfire, (he sent me some). ITC 100 is working fairly well if you don

a few years ago I had a booklet of a steel company with all the sorts of steel what they made. they where specialized in railroadtracks and what they showed, was all over 0,6% carbon and somewhat mangan, nothing else really countable. The grade of carbon should work for normal blades and tools and a hardness around 58 HRC should be reached easily.

Badger

Congratulations!!!

I wish I could say that may first hook looked something like this, I was about twenty years older and the hook was nothing to show!!!

Keep your son in the track, this is some awesome talent here... !!!

For holding the pliers is no other help as training, for the pressure you have to come up with, to hold the material, bend a c-clamp in a size it will fit and hold the ends of the pliers together. This way your son only has to hold the pliers and not squeezing them together, too.

Badger

@ All

Thank you all for the heartly welcome here!!!

Just want to show my latest project:


click here!

The blade is forged from my own damascus, around 160-some layers, German Silver and Grenadill from Mocambique, the sheath is handsewn and hand dyied
leather. Length over all 11", the blade is around 1 3/8" wide, the weight is about 11 oz.

I hope you all like it and wait for some comments


Badger

Sandblast it! This is the way I go and I never had any problems with it.

If you use acetone or any other solvent, you still might keep something on the surface, except you wash it. And even then the time will come and there is so much oil, grease or so in the acetone (or so), that it will cause problems again.

Badger

Hello in here from Good Ol