Thomasaboucher

Thanks. I haven't had a chance to fix it yet, but hopefully I can look into these suggestions soon.

I just found this link the other day. It's a book that shows various techniques and proceedures, but it also shows how to make some tools. The link I have provided shows how to make a top and bottom fuller from railway track. I'm sure you could easily modify these plans to make other various tools like stwges and set hammers and the like. Let us know what you end up doing and post pictures.

http://www.fao.org/docrep/009/ah635e/AH635E13.HTM

That is disappointing. I would have figured they were junk ones. Maybe someone should suggest it to him.

I agree with jmccustomknives. It hurts me a little to see them abused, but it sure looks like fun.

Frosty, the guy is Gay Wilkinson. Here is an article about the, filming it: http://dailyjournalonline.com/entertainment/local/updated---shooting-in-farmington-gets-national-attention/article_4051bb12-cc40-11e2-acd7-001a4bcf887a.html

I haven't had a stamp made up yet, but when I do it will look like this. It's my initials 'TB' incorporated into an anchor.

Man, I wish I lived closer. I need to find an offer like this in north georgia. Thank you for the generous offer! Im sure your stuff will find a good home soon.

Thanks. I'll try taking it apart again and see where the best place to add the spacer is.

I recently bought a nice champion forge blower. It runs smooth, throws a lot of air and cleaned up pretty nice. The only problem is when you let go of the crank, and the fan slows down, it sounds like the blades are hitting the inside of the housing. It is only when you let go. When you crank it its squared up and doesn't make contact. The crank does have some play. There does seem to be some sort of spacer where the crank enters the housing, but its pretty thin and worn out. Should that be there or did the previous owner add that? Any idea how to fix this wobble or what might be causing it? I'd hate to keep running it this way and destroy the blades.

Any idea what model this? It doesn't appear to have one on the casing like some do.

Thanks for the help.

Very neat. Thanks for sharing.

I guess I misspoke. It really only needs a little sanding, nothing major. The pitting isn't very deep. The plate is still about half an inch thick.

Nice job. That thing looks sweet. Let us know how it works.

Yeah, I was happy to recue it. It kills me that people leave stuff like that outside to waste away. If it hadn't been outside for a few years
it'd be almost perfect.

Well then, I guess it shall remain nameless, haha.

I recently bought mine at an antique store in Wells, Maine. I saw it sitting outside and it looked in pretty good condition. There was no name on it. He said it was 225 lbs and wanted $300. The guy told me he had 7 more Peter Wrights showing up the next day. I went back and looked at everything he had. Only two of the PW had my attention because the others were too warn. I ended up taking is one. To me it was a better deal. It was the biggest in the best shape and half the price of the others. I know PW is a good name (and I actually wanted a PW), but this one was at a good price and in good condition.

I recently just picked up this anvil. I'm not sure who made it. All of the markings (if there ever were any) seem to be gone. It's in pretty good shape, just needs a tiny bit of grinding on the face to take the pitting out. Should be good to go in no time. I put it on a scale and it read 218 lbs. I can't wait to set it up and start using it.

I agree with dcraven. It seems like a lot of work to get that spike down to a drawknife. Here is a great tutorial I followed to make a draw knife. Walnut square iron I think this might work good for you with the files. They are probably about the right size.

It looks good. I want to try making one. I found these great illustrations of how to forge them plus some other tools. (Pg 1013). Perhaps you can try one of the others next.

http://books.google.com/books?id=8ZVaAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA1013&lpg=PA1013&dq=forge+top+fuller&source=bl&ots=Lb6e-NjRCC&sig=65KF--M7vq8883Bz0_tT92WyiWw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6O2XUc6zPI_c9QS7noHYBg&ved=0CEQQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=forge%20top%20fuller&f=false

Page 793 shows how to make a ball pine hammer.
Page 933 is another hammer

The rebound seems decent. I'm not sure I'll find a name on it. It's really pitted including the top. It's been outside a long time, possibly in that salt air. I got it on the coast of Maine. First order of business is to pressure wash it to get off the dirt and hopefully some of the rust. Maybe then more faint marks will appear.

I just didn't know if someone could identify it by any of its visual characteristics. I don't have Anvils in America, but it seems like everyone always references that book when trying to identify an anvil. How many anvils have triangle shaped ends on the feet? I saw a Wilkinson online that looks similar to the shape of mine, including the foot ends:
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=21949

Perhaps it was Bill Scheer. He is the head blacksmith at Mystic. There are other smiths that work there though. http://www.thewesterlysun.com/mysticriverpress/news/seaport-has-a-vacation-plan/article_4b580e7c-59b7-11e2-9394-0019bb2963f4.html?mode=image

I recently picked up an anvil with no marking or possibly faint markings. It weighs 218lbs. It has some surface rust making it hard to find any markings. I didn't know if anyone on here could help to identify it.

I attached a photo of what looks like some markings, though I cannot make them out. On the bottom right quarter of the phot there looks to be two more distinct markings and possibly a faint "R" a little lower between them.


Any guesses? Please let me know if you need more info. I'd love to know who made it. Thanks for looking.