Guiltyspark

Im shocked these videos only have a few hundred views each. Spread the word , possibly give this a sticky.

 

part 1 out of many.

 

 link removed

Commercial add, plus usefull information has already been covered in the IFI knife chat.

So I'm looking to build a charcoal forge. Specifically charcoal and not coal.

I have heard there are differences in design between them.

Like side blast instead of bottom blast.

What are some tips and guidelines for a forge I can build for general blacksmithing and knife smithing.

Thats how I felt when I found that. So now I drill the hole oversized, epoxy fit, then drill and pin the handle, along with either peening the pommel/butt cap or screwing it on. Makes an extremely tight, rattle free handle

What epoxy do you use? I have this milliput stuff that is pretty popular in the scale model community. Not sure if i should run out for a better alternative.

Learning anything takes time. For a person that posted his second blade only a few days ago, you seem to be going all over the place rather than listening to the advise given, like focusing on one thing at a time. Then you make excuses when asked about it. Have you even read the stickys or the knife chat reposts or the books written by W.Goddard or J.Hrisoulas?

You wonder why people dont want to answer you anymore, and we wonder why you have not figired it out yet.

Yes i read the stickies and own all of the J hrisoulas books as well as nearly all of the other knifemaking books in print. As for being all over the place I dont see why that is a problem. I like to gather as much information as possible on processes im using and processes i might use in the future. Its how I learn things.

I dont like your attitude for a moderator BTW. Telling new posters they "wonder why nobody answers you anymore" is frankly pretty rude and stuck up. If I were spamming the forum with nonsense like "how du i mayk nife?" that would be one thing but im not. Im asking specific questions about specific processes that are not covered in any of the stickies or knifemaking classes (that just started BTW).

This is how I do it.

http://forums.dfoggk...=1

I've done it a few other ways. My other ways are drilling a pilot hole, then burning the tang in by heating it cherry and pushing it through, and I've also drilled a pilot hole and used a round iwasaki wood rasp to slot the tang.

that is completely and utterly ingenious. I am literally speechless right now. My workload just went from nightmare to XXXXXXXXX , thank you SOOO much.

What are the best ways to do this?

It seems so easy going into it then you realize that its not easy at all.

My harbor freight drill seems to "bend" out of alignment when pressure is applied , and i dont think my needle files are doing very good job of squaring up the hole.

What are the best techniques to do this or am I doing it right but it just takes a long time?

Can anybody recommend me some good flex shaft motor tools for this purpose?

I have a battery powered dremel and its a nightmare :(

Seems to me that this offer for him to show you what he does at a fair price is not a bad way to go. I would expect that if you have a product you would expect the same?

totally agree but I'm not sure where the best place to buy it from to make sure he gets the money and not a third party.
And I'm asking for more resources because more is better

no that's not what I'm talking about

wait never mind it's there in another post. Any more stuff

I found this link quite informative and it only took 30 seconds of looking to find. There's a lot of info on this site if ya feel like digging for it!

no that's not what I'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/Sculpting-David-Broadwell-Techniques-Texturing/dp/B001II9YH8


I found this DVD online and was incredibly interested in this process but can find no information online about it. Are there resources that I don't know about that cover this technique ?

Right now I'm having trouble putting a good consistent edge on my knives. And shaping them is becoming a chore with my equipment.

Right now the only real power tools I'm using are a cheap 7 inch angle grinder and a Ryobi belt sander flipped upside down. I'm worried about both because they are sloppy and really heat up the metal.

Can somebody explain to me what I need to invest in if I want to start making edges that are good enough to sell?

I have seen these multi wheel belt sanders but it seems like it would be too expensive. Am I wrong? Could these be made cheaply . Like under 500 dollars?

I did see a buffer/knife grinder combo from grizzly that looks like a Kalamazoo. What is the difference between a two wheel system and a 3 or 4 wheel system?

Or is all I really need a wet wheel grinder?

I would agree with what was said above... an 8" to 10" Chef knife, A Flexible 8" fillet knife and a good utility/parring knife.
As a side note, The santuko style Chef knife is very versatile, easier to use for most folks and
the hard point is not really needed. Other good additions are a 10" to 12" slicer and a semi stout boning knife.
If you would like I can forward you some info and/or places to research pro knives to get a better feel.
Best of luck with the project

That would be great if you could send me info

Thanks. Any guidelines for price or how I should determine price with materials vs labor?

Also I know that filet knives are thinner. What flat stock should I use?

I know a general chef knife but what else? I'm selling them in a block. If 3 is too little what number of knives would be sufficient ?

You will need to make a door that can be left partially open to alloy stock to protrude from it.

Many ways to accomplish that from a flip down door with hinges on the top many times with a mousehole along the bottom always open. To twin side doors with hinges on the side allowing you to leave one open---think about making them un-symetrical with a wide side and a narrow side to allow you to choose the one that's best for your project.

If that's not a blown forge you may need to make sure there is always a gap to deal with back pressure issues.

Most doors will require some sort of attachments to the face of the forge.

what is a blown forge?

Do you weld ? Mig is good for sheet metal work. The reason that I ask is that being able to weld will broaden the options available. Especially for fabrication of hinges.

The sheet metal pan for the door can be fabricated accurately using a few homemade tools. One of which is a "finger break" which is a length of angle Iron with a section of one leg removed from the middle and then bent back on itself. I think there is a posting of one on this site so search. In the meantime I will help look aroung for some references.

no i dont weld :( i hoping to change that soon with classes.

I have welded once and found it complicated (stick welding) and it was tricky because the rod always got stuck on the work.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/New-2-Burner-LP-Propane-Gas-Forge-Knifemaking-Welding-Blacksmith-/00/$(KGrHqEOKpwE4kVYPpIJBOMHyG3f4Q~~0_12.JPG


I dont really have a stand for this forge that would let me use bricks as doors . I guess i would rather have a built in door and i already ordered kao wool for it.

How do i make this work? are there plans on how to do this?

i really want to make a razor , how do you forge this?

do you forge it as a rectangle or a wedge and than hollow grind?

Is there a guide to getting a gas forge running right

I am having major trouble straightening. Blades. I think my blades slowly warp after I check for straightness after correcting a flaw. When doing full tang blades it seems like this is an impossible task to level the tang out. I don't know if I haveremoved too much material or if I am bending it too far or not enough. Please list all the techniques you use to straighten your blades as I am lost to the process

Very nice! What is the handle material?

USA knifemaker orange black

Nice! great design.

thanks its a little paring knife , im making a matching chefs knife with the same scales

make sure your anvil is perfectly level with your waist , that when you lay your hammer on the anvil on its face , your forarm is level.

Usually a forging hammer has a slightly domed face, with no sharp corners. The sharper the edges, the worse the hammer marks are.

hmm thats not it then....

when i grind a knife it looks great , but i have to grind ALOT and i feel like im wasting steel when i do it.

Like the worst thing for me right now is when i do the handle , the surface is never flat and its almost impossible to fix enough to get the scales on. so i have to grind the upset edges because they are so raised up and uneven.

I see these videos and people are making these clean forgings that look almost arrow straight , im thinking it has to do with my anvil or something.