IRO-bot

My anvil is a little high. I am searching for the perfect stump. I was using sandpaper, but now that I think about it, switching back to the files makes more sense. Thanks for the advice!!

That is indeed a chunk of leaf spring. I planed on using a file, and convexed one side with the file, then I had a bad idea and learned a lesson. The pawn shop hammer is down for the count! My anvil has a little chunk out of the far side, and a misplaced hammer blow landed right on it. I gouged the grap out of the face of the hammer. I wonder why it was so soft? As far as the handle, I was planning to just cord wrap it. Now, I'm thinking about making some scales out I some maple I have laying around just to do it. I'm looking forward to the heat treat, then abusing it to failure to test said heat treat. I have a big hunk o 1084 that has been cut to a rough blank that I'm hoping will turn out well. The stock is 2inches wide, so I hot cut the tip to a 45 degree angle, and tapered the stock from 2 in at the belly of the blade, to 1in at the end of the tang to give it plenty of belly and tip weight for choppin'.

I posted seeking help on my bevels a while ago. I took every piece of advice, and have spent way too much time and money at the forge since. I have so much scrap steel laying around in odd shapes. This is the product of advice and practice using cheep pawnshop 3lb cross peen and a 20oz ball peen. I'm not too proud of the dings, and the bevel wasn't perfect, so i gave it a convex profile with a bench grinder, and I'm taking a break form smoothing it out by hand with sandpaper. The advice i received was amazing, and I hope to do better with the chunk of 1084 i have ready to get hot tomorrow. By all means, tell me what I could do better!! I already have a couple good hammers inbound.

I started a new one today with 5160. I tried the counter curve thing, and I'm kinda hoping I curved or a little too much. I like recurve blades. I will try the taping as I go next time. The bevel is going a little easier, as well as a lot slower. I will post pictures when It's done.

Makes sense. Maybe I'm holding too shallow of an angle when I hit one side. Another thing I picked up, I tend to work the bevel in the middle of the anvil. I am going to radius one side ASAP! It would be much easier to hammer an organic bevel off an edge just like forming the tip. I can't believe I never thought of that!!! You guys are awesome!!

Well, the octagon was more trouble than I thought. I won't rest until I get a decent one!! Storm crow, you are the man!! I have some springs that are believed to be 5160 from a friend. I will put my limited skills to the test again when the rain stops. This time, I will focus on not hulk smashing the steel. That should yeald a slightly better result. Expect pictures by this weekend!! Thanks again!!

I never even thought of dressing the hammer!! If I'm not paying attention, my hammer control is terrible, so if theres a way to get less dings, i'll try it! I have a big chunk of Aldo B.'s 1084 and some 5160 sitting here, but I didn't want to waste any because the shipping is almost as much as the steel!! I will heed your advice and get it hot next time I want to try a blade. Is there a desired angle or technique that can teach you how to hammer at such an angle? The issue seams to be more in the later stages of thinning out the bevel. I can get it pretty decent in the beginning, but it seams more difficult to hit at the proper angle when the blade is tilted towards me. I was wondering if flattening out the front of the cross section of my cross peen would be useful for such work. Has anyone tried that? In any case, I am just going to accept that I am going to have to ruin a couple pieces of steel to learn how to do it. Thanks for the advice!! When Im done playing with whats left of the round stock, I will put a chunk of the good stuff in the fire and give it another go. I will post pictures, good or bad, so you can see what the issue is. Thanks for all the info!!

I feel that my lack of knowledge may be the issue as well. I have been playin with round stock for about 3 months, and have moved to flat stock. I have plate around a bit trying to learn as much about shapin the steel as i can. I can get the bevel great on the side that is facing away from me while holding the tang on the anvil, but the other side looks relatively flat. I use a 20oz ball peen do I don't go full on hulk smash it the thing. I am Going back to basics as we speak, but if anyone has any more advice for bevels, please share!! I'm going to try to make that octagon out I some round. I usually just make little chisel spears and arrow heads. Thank you for the advice!!!

I have made a few knives with a belt grinder, and I felt like I was cheating. I found this forum, (and saw stormcrow's knives!!) and wanted to heat some steal immediately!! I have always been a fan of Tim Lively and his as-forged look. I have been using the cheap steel at lowes to refine my techniques, but I have ran into a problem. I can make a decent tang, and even put some nice finger holds on it.. But how do you hammer in a bevel and get it square in the center!!! I always get a perfect bevel on one side, and barely anything on the other, and it's always leaning to the crappy looking side. Can someone explain what I am doing wrong??? Thanks for all you guys do for us new guys!!

I asked you folks about an old Vulcan anvil a few days ago. After taking your advise, I looked a little harder and found a more serviceable 100# vulcan in Kentucky. The guy met me half way to show me this rust bucket. Here it is soaking in pb blaster After the PB Blaster bath, I took a little 80 grit to the face and body, and hit the body with a little bit of High Temperature engine paint. It has a few dings, but I will work around them for $120!!! What do you guys think?

All sound advice heeded. You guys are awesome! Thank you so much!

I already asked the fellow about that. He said it was joined, and that was just shadow. I will find out in person. Later on, could I just weld another tool steel plate to the existing plate? Would that area still be prone to cracking with another 1/4 or 1/2 inches of tool steel?

It is 100#. Thank you for the confidence! Do run of the mill machine shops do welding like I need? I did some welding back in the day, but I don't have the skills or supplies to adequately fix that hole under the plate with any confidence.

I am meeting a fellow to look at this Vulcan, and I would like to know a little more about what i'm doing. Not only am I new to the forum, I have only made a few knives using stock removal. I will be buying this to hammer out my blades. My issues are with the pitting on the sides, specifically under the plate, and the chipped edges. The asking price is 200, but I need to know what to ask for this reasonably. Also, how difficult would this be to fix? Does anyone know someone in middle Tennessee that could do it for me? I have included a link to the pictures, because they were too big to post. Thanks in advance!!! http://i1268.photobu...AL/IMG_2101.jpg http://i1268.photobu...AL/IMG_2102.jpg http://i1268.photobu...AL/IMG_2100.jpg