FrogPondForge

I think welded steel is tougher, and more easily repairable. It won't crack when you drop it (or drop something on it), if it does, you can weld it easier than cast. You can throw water on it without that nasty cracking sound too. Steel has a higher melting point than cast iron, probably erodes away slower as well. If you can cut and weld it, and, are lucky enough to use scrap, they are cheaper too. As I recently learned, hours add up. If you had one made, it would cost at least as much as something similar in CI. Since I have the CNC torch and a welder, I'll be making my own. I'll probably never profit from making them as a side business though. The welding and assembly takes too long. I could probably do a fair job of cutting out u-weld-it pots for folks (depending on the price of plate these days!). Alot of people have welders. MIKE

FrogPond'sDad

I used 3/8" plate. The cut file takes about 23 1/2" x 17 3/4". He supplied a chunk about 24" x 23 1/2". It was real close on the X axis. He came and picked it up tonight. I think he was happy. MIKE

I didn't build that part. But I think the idea is that the ash may fall past the joint better. It came from "the internet" and had the ash door and round flange. I think he got a reducer down to ~2" as part of the deal. There is a set screw on the inlet side. I think the curve is moot. With the restriction at the fire, the elbow is more of a plenum than a manifold. I built mine from scrap and it looks like this. Air blows right through, works like a charm. MIKE

Thanks ApprenticeMan! I used the same cut file as Tom's. His works well. I'm sure this fellow will be able to use this for a long time to come. Enjoy, MIKE

A fellow heard about Tom's forge and wanted a forge pot. I burned and built it today.

He supplied the plate and ash-dump/air-pipe, I think he bought the ash-dump from the web for ~$30. Came out well. All I have to do now, is figure out how much to charge. I have about 4 1/2 hours in it (including foreplay and clean-up). It is always a tough call. Of course, most of the time is in assembly. I haven't had much luck selling them as u-weld-it (the way I'd rather do these). He is coming by tomorrow evening. We'll see how I do. Enjoy, MIKE

More pics are here: ForgePot
FatherofFrogPond

Bet he takes it off in thunderstorms. Tom

I think they are 1/2-13 thread. Great tool, I use them on my drill press. I'll have to get another for Tom to use on the anvil. They are cheap at HF
( Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices ).

Great idea! , MIKE

FatherofFrogPond


Copyrighted photo removed and link put into the post.

I used forge scale and torch table....stuff (dross?, scale?, splatter?) to make leather dye. Put a bunch in vinegar and let it stand for a while. If you put it on vegetable tanned leather, or anything with tannin in it, and it turns black. It works really well. Looks like it just is wet at first, then it turns black in front of your eyes. Really cool. You are making actetate of iron. Some people use steel wool in vinegar, not if you have scale around. MIKE

FrogPond's Dad

Also, there was a thread here by one of the members, that detailed his firepot that his father cut out and welded up for him. FrogPondForge, I think was the name. Do a search on it.

Here is a link to Tom's forge:
index

(untill the blueprints are back up; BP0545)

You could probably print one of the drawings and scale it to suit your needs.
I have been thinking that I could do you-weld-it firepot kits. If you gave me the length/width/depth dimensions you were looking for, I could draw and cut the parts. For a "nominal" charge, of course . Getting less nominal as the price of plate keeps going up! There is a surplus steel warehouse nearby, I usually source plate from there, but it is "pot luck" as far as having a suitable chunk sitting there.
Tom's is from 3/8" plate, works well and probably will last a LONG time. Good luck, MIKE

FatherofFrogPond

Try these guys:

Small Engine Warehouse
Small Engine Distributors

There is another called ACE Engines (Air Cooled Engines) . They sell surplus engines. There are a few deals to be had. Good luck, MIKE

FatherofFrogPond

I built one like tenbears'. I have about $8 in metal in it. The Blueprint is BP0545 (are they down right now?). Or you can look at it here: index . Works great!

Mike
FatherofFrogPond

Speaking of Russian subs, does HF still stock the 110#er? I heard they were no longer imported, but strange as it may sound, I still want one!

I think they are discontinued. I started calling stores in an ever increasing radius from home and found 3 in a store (Vineland NJ) +-50mi away. Best part, they were $56.95 each. I bought one. It would be worth a try from where your at. You'll need the HF # for the anvil. They are usually under the shelf somewhere, they can tell if they have in stock with the part number. I think I found the part number in a Google search. Good hunting! MIKE

Frog's Dad

That 110# is a HF "Russian Submarine"

110# HF Russian Submarine 12/07 $56.95 (+NJ tax) ((Vineland NJ HF store, had 3))

MIKE

Father-of-FrogPond

Isn't there a Big Chimney in WV. ? MIKE

The topic of relative cost of repair comes up. I got my son's cast steel 110# HF Russian submarine anvil from a HF store for $56. It is far better than any of the cast iron ASO's and CHEAP. They are "discontinued" on HF's website. My local store had sold the last of theirs 6 mos ago. I called a bunch of stores and found 3 in Vineland, NJ. It was about a 50mi drive, but still a bargain. You might try the same thing. There is a "store finder" on the website (somewhere). Start calling closest first and work your way out. East Tenn. might be a little lean on HF stores, check it out. I had my eye on a big cube of scrap at the local liquidators, would have cost as much or more than the Russian sub. Worth a shot. MIKE

FrogPond'sDad

Sorry,
I forgot the FatherofFrogPond or FrogPond's Father or FrogPondsDad that I usually append onto my posts. Tom (son, and the real FrogPond) has too much homework to be reading this. I keep him up to speed, and occasionally post.

When I read this, "But it seems you should get just a little more experience in living, let alone in welding or other matters that can cause a lot of damage to self and/or property before you start giving advice.", I had to chuckle. That statement would have probably ticked-off my 15yo son, but for me it was funny. If you knew me, you would know just how funny that sounded. Sorry for the confusion (at least I hope you were confused).

This is what I was envisioning

I figured he may have been able to pull that off with a MIG welder and average skills. Dealing with pre-heat and crack prevention when welding alloy steels is probably more paramount than the capacity of his welder. At least when one of the members to be joined is 1/8" angle iron. Maybe it is me that is confused.
Be careful, MIKE

(FrogPondsDad)

I think the welding thing depends what you are trying to do. If you are butt welding two pieces of that stock together, you'll need a big machine. If you are trying to weld a tab or bracket onto that chunk, you could use a machine that has the capacity that matched the tab or bracket. I think my 210A MIG will weld 3/8" with .035" wire. I would freely weld 3/8" material to that chunk (or 3/4", if I could get to both sides). I think that, to make a treadle hammer out of it, you would only be welding plate, tabs or brackets to the chunk. How big they should be, would depend of the max. cap. of the HF welder. MIKE

There are some basic rules of thumb for cannon building. They mostly follow the NSSA (North-South Skirmish Association) rules. They only apply to tubes used in Civil War events and live fires, but are pretty well accepted. Other eras dont have to comply. The most popular Rev War tube is probably the light 3pdr, if built to scale they don't fit the "minimum wall thickness at the chamber of one caliber" rule, but I have seen many with the original bore size (2.913 bore and about 7 3/4" OD...=~2.4" wall, some are lined to 2.25" to comply). So, the 15th C. guys can do what they want too. But the seam in the tube (visible in a few shots) etc. would be a no-no in most circles.
The NSSA's rules are here: NSSA rules , see section 10. (liners explained)
To each his own.
RE; Brig Niagra. Be sure to see this video: Brig Niagra Live Fire , there are the 32pdr Carronades at work. (Makes the Myth Busters episode regarding the same thing look kind of silly).
I too am in awe of the work those guys did, I'd stand by while they shot it, but I might not bring the kids.
Glad you folks liked it, really cool forging (at the least). Enjoy, MIKE

Are those fellows good or what? And the shop is spotless too. I don't think the cannon would comply with the NSSA's guidlines for safe cannons today, but I'll bet they do fire it. Seems like alot of work for a decoration. I saw that on a cannon builders/shooters message board, I just had to spread it over here. I'm glad you folks enjoyed it. There is just something about red-hot iron, and the people who appreciate it. Enjoy, MIKE

FatherofFrogPondForge

Just saw this Forging 15th C cannon

Woah!
Mike

FrogPond'sDad

I have a Victor Advantage II 250 set. I ordered a lesser set from HF and got the Victor. It is not listed on their site. Looking for it just now, I saw (on Hobart's board):

"The Advantage II kit is a private label kit sold to Sam's Club and is not on our website. It will be similar in product and service to the Firepower 250 series kit that can be found at Thermadyne Corporate home page and clicking on the Firepower logo, then the Literature tab, then Catalog, then Torches, Outfits and Accessories."

So, it looks like you can get one at Sam's Club. (Funny how I got one from HF)
I use it (mostly) in a CNC torch table. It has been holding up real well. I think it is a good set (especially for what I paid for it).

SJBC, you are in DE, check with Keen or G&E. I'm with G&E now. I don't pay rent (I brought bottles into the deal), but I do just exchange my bottles like I did.
Enjoy, MIKE

(FatherofFrogPond)

One of the few benefits of being a relatively short drive from a strip mine. You find a way to ship it and I might pack it up for you
I don't know if I should say "Sorry". Every local smith said to go there, I can actually say "I have bought all my coal there". I got their address and phone from the web, they are out there. Enjoy, MIKE

SJBC,
We may take you up on that someday (in-laws live west of Bethany). Enjoy your trip, MIKE

(FrogPond I am your father)

I think they are "Rail Anchors". Look like this?

Here is a description: Rail Anchors are manufactured in one-piece construction from spring steel or equal, heat treated and designed to eliminate creepage of track. They provide a large bearing surface against both rail base and tie, avoiding undo cutting an wear, thus prolonging the life of wood ties. The Improved Fair and Channeloc anchors are "drive-on" type anchors, driven on using a standard spike maul. The unit anchor is an "applicator" or "spring type" anchor which requires a special tool similar to a claw bar. (Rail Anchors and Tie Plates for used in Railroads, Cranes, Mines, and Tunnelling)
Sound like they may be some kind of spring steel. Hope this helps, MIKE
(I have picked up a few too)

Edit: URL for broken image above: http://www.harmersteel.com/catalog/4/04/railanchors2.jpg

(DadofFrogPond)

Ahhhh, but the 110# is Russian.

Mike

(DadofFrogPond)