quint

Dont know about the little guy but the peter wright that I have (about 200lbs) is pretty darn quiet. How you mount them plays a huge roll in the sound as well. 

Sounds about right on the price, maybe a tad high but then again area. There is a PW out here at 310pounds going for $1000. Its been listed for a while. If I had the money would probably take it but no cash right now plus I dont really need it. Just would be nice to have one that is 100lbs bigger then the biggest one I have. 

Thanks guys. 

Thanks guys. Geoff I know the forged look is not for everyone. Gonna say the tang is as forged on the flats. I should have hit it with the belt but ended up just leaving it as forged which gave me some of the issues that I ran into. All good suggestioins though. 

Thanks. 

Hey guys just about done with this one. Think its toward the better of my blade forging but still alot of room for improvement. Its 1075 from admiral I got a while back (wont make a hamon really at all). I forged it best I could, profiled, ground and etched to remove all the scale, then I ran the sand paper over the forged parts so it gives it kind of a cool look. Well probably a cool look if your not a discriminating blacksmith that would point out that it could be alot smoother :) 

Handle is natural walnut, brass pins. My taper on the blade was off just a tad so one of the scales didnt meet up properly at the top of the handle giving me a little to large of a line. 

Thanks for looking. 

Looks like a good deal to me. I think its always nice to see anothers custom work up close and in person. 

Looks like soderfors to me, can just make it out if I am not mistaken. Made in 1926 if I am reading that correctly. I think it is one of there rarer anvils, could be wrong though. 

Even mounted on end would give ya one heck of a sweat spot. If you could mount it like that would probably work pretty good depending on what your forging.

Saw that one on CL, he looked like he had a few others as well that looked pretty good. Its a nice looking anvil. Wish there were pics of it with the paint cleaned off but ahh well. Enjoy. 

You find some amazing anvils, that fisher sawmakers and this one both look brand new. Really cool stuff, I am also one of those that grew up watching that stuff saturday mornings. 

Looks like someone ground a little on the top. Shouldnt be an issue I dont think. 

Ive got a 200lb sodofers and really like it. They will ring like crazy but if you mount it right (bed of silicone, a chain wrapped around the waste) they quiet way down. 

Looks like a mean looking old blade. Really like the profile. 

Not sure about the hamon, there are so many variables. To really see what you have your gonna have to polish it up pretty good, then etch, then fine polish a bit. Not going all traditional japanese polishing but a little hybrid or american style will show it up nicely. 

Quench medium and temp play huge roles. 

Forgot to add where did you get the 1095 from? I got some from new jersey steel baron that makes some very nice hamons, have gotten some from other places that I could barely pull a line out of, another one I went to quench the steel in my parks 50 and it sounded like you were shattering glass it was pinking so much. Ive never had a blade do that before not even in water. 

If it is a Kohlswa, wouldn't it be marked with kg instead of lbs?

Not sure about kohlswa's but my sodofors is marked in pounds. 

Man your a lucky one. Thats a nice anvil, that thing has got to have a huge sweat spot. I know I wouldnt be throwing that thing around. Ofcourse I would give it a shot and my back would probably go out and the old man would be helping me get to the road so my wife could pick me up lol. 

Congrats and good eye. 

I was thinking the same thing when I found out where they were made. I would still like to go up there and take a look around. 

Well I would say keep looking, be lucky and pounce quick. Plus a good 100 or 150lber should work for most things. Ofcoures getting a good piece of steel now will help ya be patient waiting for that right anvil to come along. 

I have a 200lb sodofors which is very similar if I remember right. Yes it is a little louder but some silicon and a nice chain wrapped around it will significantly lower the sound. They are great anvils. Careful of the edges as has been mentioned. 

Want to add that anvil looks almost new (very little use) except for that part I mentioned previously. If the face was in as good a shape as the rest of it then the price would seem ok if you could afford it. 
link removed saw this one down there, if they still have it would be IMHO a better option. These sodofors are nice anvils.

Seems pretty high even for down there. 2-3 dollars a pound is good price if its in decent shape. Once you start hitting 4 a pound its getting pretty pricey unless its something you really want/need and have the funds or its just a special anvil (IMHO). Up here most of the time guys are trying for antique prices on stuff so its hard to find decent deals. I have found a few though but its taken a while. 

Looking at those pics there is something wrong on the face. Almost looks like the front 1/3 has scene some serious abuse or welding or something. I could be wrong and its just a trick of the light but looks a little odd. 

Ill save the others the trouble of saying everyone needs your location and what not filled in. Its easier to help people out finding things if they know where your at. 

Very quiet anvils once setup. I have a old beat up one but use it primarily because its so quiet in the neighborhood. 

Amazing detail, great looking blade. The facets are always such a nice touch. 

Thanks guys. Theo yeah it is peened on the end of the brass. 

Just finished up this guy, forged 1095, missed some of the scale but its gonna be one of my shop or hikin blades. Too many small things that were off but great learnin experience and its a good little knife. Handle is brass, stabilized redwood (almost looks like black leather spacers just smoother, and natural black acacia. 

Biggest thing I learned on this one, shape the brass when its thicker before hand. That stuff conducts heat so grinding it down after the handle is together is a royal pain. 

Anyways thanks for lookin. 

Kind of curious now, so the 1045 wont harden that much but it should get a decent hardness correct, say even if its just in the high 40's. Another thought is if you could get some of that tool steel in the same dimensions as one of the edges you could have that welded on the top (probably wont be easy) and then you would have a square steel top anvil. 

Just ideas, where are ya located at. There are probably some groups around as mentioned that could even help ya with doing these things.