01tundra

I really like the design!

Decided it was time to beef my hammer up a little.

I upsized from a 1-HP, 120V motor to a 2-HP, 1,750 HP TEFC motor wired at 240V.  Also added about 12ish lbs. of lead to the tupp and increased the couterbalance weight by about 2 lbs.  I increased the motor mounting plate from 1/4" thick to 3/4" to avoid any plate deflection due to the heavier motor.  So now it's closer to a 65-lb hammer.

I'm amazed by how much more responsive the hammer is now and the noticable increase in striking force.  I can definitely feel the difference in my 6", 5,000 psi concrete slab for sure.  The main thing I was worried about was loss of finesse since I work with a large size range of materials, but I honestly think I have better control now than I did with the 1-HP motor.

Also took the time to install an industrial grade switch that's lockable since my grandson (toddler) has all of the sudden taken an interest in the "powahamma"  .

Very nice work.

How did you get enough material on the end to make the leaves?  Fold over and forge weld?  Upset?

Nice work!

Made this one back during my greencoal class days......I sharpened it on a stone until it would shave, turned out more like a fancy prison shank .

On ‎12‎/‎13‎/‎2016 at 6:56 AM, PVF Al said:

One of my prized possessions. Made by Larry Long of Litiz, PA. 2005 

Very beautiful work right there!

My very first time at the forge yielded these two -

1 hour ago, Dylon M. Dollins said:

I'm color blind so just want to make sure what color is that looks like a reddish tint

The vine / leaf is Verdigris (green) base with Gold highlights.

Dragonfly is Iris Blue, Patina (light blue) and Silver.

7 minutes ago, Dylon M. Dollins said:

What did you finish the metal with

Guilder's paste, applied with heat gun and then baked on, Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear top coat.

Finished up the paper towel holder for our camper, as usual, my better half did her magic on it to pretty up my work 

Yeah, I had even thought about forging a pocket style handle that would sit down flush on top of the lid.

There's definitely room for improvement when I get some more free time.  It's a work in progress .

Agree with the handle concerns, it was the first thing that crossed my mind.

Was going to originally thru-bolt it from the top until my wife added in the "can it also be a bench" request, that's what made me relocate it to the front edge.  The top isn't very heavy so I figured I'd let it ride until something happens. 

I could always forge a front facing handle that's mounting plate wraps over the top and thru-bolts.  As long as it's relatively low profile it wouldn't impede the bench functionality. 

With the hinges, I plan to make backing plates and thru-bolt the hinges if they ever become an issue.

I was giving short notice on this project and it had to be completed prior to Thanksgiving, so I took some liberties and have plan "B' in mind just in case.

Thanks all.

My work has been inspected and approved by the governing authority !

Got it all finished up today.

Beautiful work!

I really like the design, very clean and has good balance with the wood slab.

Great work!

Someday I'd like to try my hand at fireplace doors.

Started building my son a toy box on Saturday.

First time forging non-pintle style strap hinges (not really sure what the technical name would be).  To my surprise they work, and actually work well.

Still have some more detail work to do, but I'm making progress on it.

I'm left handed but prefer to swing the hammer with my right hand, unless my arm is tired, then I switch to the left.  I can swing equally accurate with both and both feel natural, guess I'm lucky for that.

I usually stand at my anvil with the horn to my left, but I have no problem working from the other side when it works better for me.

I crank my coal forge blower with my left hand and use tongs with my right usually.

After reading back through all of that.......man am I screwed up !

Nice job.

I've been wanting to make a spatula, just wasn't sure if I used mild steel (such as hot rolled / A36) if it would hold seasoning and not just rust up.  I was thinking that if I treated it like my cast iron and didn't "wash" it after use it may be OK.

Anyone have any experience with forging grilling utensils out of low carbon steel and long term performance?

Without a photo it's anyone's guess, chances are it would be tough to know even with a photo.

But if you're 12 yrs old and out forging on it then it's the greatest anvil ever!

2 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I could tell you but my crystal ball is in the shop or do you just want a wildly uninformed guess? If you want, my crystal ball shop rate is $25.00 per guess no guarantee. Wildly improbable silliness is free. Your choice. Or I suppose you could spoil all our fun and post a couple pics.

DRATS beat to the submit key . . . AGAIN!

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Too fancy with your replies

A picture may give a 1% chance of somebody guessing correctly.......which is 99% better odds than we currently have.

A picture might give a 1% chance of someone guessing correctly....which is 99% better odds than what we currently have.

So does this that mine is likely a 2-piece and that HB started doing this well before the 1920's (as in 1895)?

Just a side question, I keep hearing about HB's "later" 2-piece design. 

My 155 HB was manufactuered in 1895 (confirmed) and I always assumed it was a two piece design because of the large line across the top of the waist that I assumed was where it was welded together, but now I'm wondering if it was just rough casting marks because the manufacturing date doesn't seem to coincide with the shift to two piece design?

2 hours ago, SReynolds said:

so...there is a sheet metal 90° shim placed inside the hardie hole and it remains in there???????????????

 

if that is correct I LIKE IT!!

Yes sir.  I would've never guessed that it would stay in place but it does.  The trick is to cut each end so it fits fairly snug, tap the shim down flush with the face and then basically flair it to fit the upper edge of the hardy.  I break the corners of my 1" square tool shanks so they fit snug but not too tight that they have to be driven in/out.