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I Forge Iron

GeorgeLots

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Everything posted by GeorgeLots

  1. Hello again folks. Some more progress on the file grinding and sand paper. all done in hand. Also the handle and guard testing the fitting. I am at the stage that i need to do the hardening and tempering of the blade and dont know how to accomplish it. I dont have an oven so big (that many swordmakers use) and my homemade charcoal forge is small for this proccess. Any ideas?? here's the pics. Hope you like it so far.
  2. ok got it. So it's not about the weight of the every individual part but mostly how they are placed together for the final outcome. Ok thanx a lot Thomas really helpfull tips. I'll keep in mind the tip you gave above also for the chopping swords , since it is the style i wish to make. Thanks a lot.
  3. Yes good point and notice taken. But the pommel is not that sharp edged. The metal part is 8mm thick and the edges are rounded and they will be fully rounded at the end.Still, if it dont turns out as i wish it, i can always make a new pommel :) Any comment-tip-advice on the question i made above for the weights?
  4. Thanks all of you guys for the comments. Really glad you liked them :)
  5. Thomas it turns out the blade is going lower on the weight as i grinding it. it was at 800gramms when finished forging but with all the grinding and corrections here and there the weight is at 660gramms atm. The handle parts all together atm are at 700gramms ( bit heavy), but i have a lot of grinding and material removal for the final shape yet. So i guess it will be around 400-500gramms for handle and about 600-650 for the blade. Are these weights acceptable or the balance will be off? Benton and Basher thnx for the guard. The pic above is the guard at the early stage, the rough shape. Atm i
  6. Thank you Mitch. Thomas the weight of the blade atm is around 0,8kg. Total weight with handle guard and pommel i estimate it around 1.1kg. Distal taper it has yes. start at 4,4mm at guard and slowly tappers down at the point. the balance point atm when i place all the handle materials on the tang is about 10-12cm from guard. total blade length is 70cm. (keep in mind its my 1st sword forging attempt :) )
  7. Hello guys. After a lot of reading and chating and advices and some knife forging attempts i finally started my longsword forging attempt from a leaf spring part. The attempt started about 2 years ago. i got a piece of a leaf spring and cut a piece of 60cm long 8mm thick and 4cm wide. Then i started the drawing out proccess wich took me a lot of time banging on the rail anvil with a pin hammer. Finally it ended up about the size i wanted to reach and it looked like that. So after some corrections and forging the bevels and some more corrections i finally grind it to clean out
  8. Hello all. Been a while since last posted a complete attempt. Well this year i finished 2 more knifes so i thought i should share with ya all and hear what you have to comment on them :) 1st is a leaf spring fully forged knife. 14cm blade 27 cm total length. handle is olive tree wood and bronze bolster. The sheeth is hand made with leather and bronze leaf decoration. 2nd knife is made out of an HSS metal shaw blade . 8cm blade 20 cm total. The scabbard and the handle are from walnut tree wood. This is a decorative knife mostly. it cuts but not for g
  9. Private, i really dont know and cant understand why he wants this design in total. not only in the grip. I explained lots of times that this may be an obstacle while he is using it be he says it feels ok at his hand. So, if he wants it like this i can say no more :) Thomas i appreciate that you answered, even if it was with a bit of sarcasm. :) Soon, i'll post the completed blade photos. Thanks all for the comments.
  10. Hello again everyone. After a small break from crafting i started working on this knife that a friend ordered to me according to his desires and design. The knife is being made with stock removal method since no fire and anvil could be used with the cold weather at the yard. The blade is made from leaf spring and is 21cm long. The handle is 12cm long. the wood for the handle is oak. the pins and bolster are bronze. Hope you like it so far. here's the blade and handle at the grinding phase to make the bevels etc. the marker lines shows how the bevel grinding will go. here
  11. Thanks Rich. You really helped me a lot to reach at this level. Thanks.
  12. Hello again. I've made myself a sheath for the knife. The leather is from an old revovler sheath.. The pattern was scratched with a razor blade (dont have that machine that burns the leather, dont know how it's called in english) .I also scratched my logo that i will use from now at my projects. It's the L and G letters in Greek that stands for my name. Hope you all like it. Cheers and thanks for watching and commenting..
  13. Thanks for the comments guys. Cotton yeah it fits perfect. The handle was design for my hand size :) . I tried your pattern for the etching unit today on a scrap and it came out perfect. So i will sure use it on the next project. Metal there are no tempering colors. I sand it untill 2000 grit wetpaper by hand. Those brown colors are probably from the camera flash.
  14. Hello again guys. I finally finished my knife. I didn't go with the initial design that i had in mind, cause i got a bit afraid to tinker with new and untested techniques on this one. So i just made the cutting edges with file and sanding and then heat treated the blade by quenching in oil. polished it by sanding until 2000 grit by hand, fitted the handle, bolster and pommel.The edges are not very sharp since i didn't went all the way to making them razor sharp. I gave the handle a coat of polyerethene varnish. Now i am trying to make a leather sheath.I hope you all like it. There are a few de
  15. BigCotton thanks for the pics. They will be very helpfull although i dont have crocodile clamps so big. i have 2 small ones that are used for electronic uses i think. I've searched in the web a little more and seen that they use those small clamps with an ear cotton stck to make the etching. I have the charger and now i wanna make the pattern and try it on a scrap. I hope it turns out nice. Will come back with more progress :)
  16. Thanks for the tip BigCotton. A very interesting and cheep electro etching unit.I think i'll give it a try. Does anything else work for the blade covering or only vinyl would seal properly?What if i use tape to cover the blade and leave only the design (kinda of a drawing on the blade) and etch from there?
  17. Hello everyone. Here's another try of me to make a nice knife. I had the design painted on a paper (imaginary design moslty) and then to a piece of a leaf spring bar. I hammered the leaf spring to the desired thickness and then made the blade shape with the grinder. (stock removal ). I am not sure yet on how to make the cutting edge (2side 1 side) and so i left it as it is for know. I polished it untill 1000 sand paper and here comes the Questions. I wanna etch a design on the blade but i am not sure how to do it. (no experience with acids etc) Any advise would be helpfull. The knife is not as
  18. Well everyone here's the completed blade. Sheath and handle and all glued together and fitted tight. I used cord to the sheath to give it a small decoration and also provide an extra carry method with the extra cord that can be straped around leg or however the carrier desires it to. It has a bit of flaws etc but since this is my 2nd amateur knife made mostly by hand and no high equipment i am pretty satisfied with the result. The handle is oak wood and the sheath is ash wood. the blade is made from old leaf spring (prolly 5160) hand forged and heat treated as 5160 steel with no surprises whil
  19. Thank you all for the comments. As for the gap it is visible because the blade is not yet finished. i haven't glued anything together.. i will put a pommel kind cup at the end of the grip to tight everything together. (i hope to). then sanding painting varnish the handle etc. so there is still a long way ahead to finish it.the pics show the state after the rough grinding of the blade. nothing is finished yet. :) so more pics will follow :)
  20. thankx for the replies guys. It's really good to hear that you like :) i'll keep ya posted.
  21. Hello everybody. Been trying my 2nd attempt to make a descent knife while i was working with the sword ( i will post pics with further progress of the sword later in the summer) and so far i have the following results as shown in the pics. i am at the stage of heat treatment ( hardening tempering) and then fine grinding and polishing. Everything you see is hand made thus the rough sides etc. i am working on a wooden sheath made from ash wood and the handle is oak wood. i know i should make them out from the same wood to look better but i forgot it completely. anyway. Hope you all guys like it
  22. Thanks for the replys guys.Really appreciate it for your comments and advices. I am glad that you liked it. Of to my next try soon when the raining days stop and i can get to the yard and work more. Cheers to all.
  23. Thanks Jm. I used leaf spring steel . probably it is 5160. To be honest i dont know what kind of wood it is. It was left overs from pallets and other wood jobs we had on the house last year. Blocks used for the rood and benches. it is soft wood yes. easy to work with. i didnt place any vernish or anything on it. it is just sanded smooth. I am trying to be as low budget as possible also so yes i use a lot of scrap materials :) Cheers.
  24. http://imgur.com/a/wnL9V/all#0 I hope this will work so you guys can see the pics.
  25. it seems i have a prob with showing the pics :(
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