John Martin

Go to knifeandgun.com Then go to forge welding. Get some 15n20 and 1095. Do fifteen layers to begin with, 1" wide x 2" long. Forge, draw out twice the length. Cut, stack, weld. Cut stack, weld. Pretty easy to do by hand. It's what i've been doing, and I've had great success. It took me four hours to do that and forge a knife from the twisted billet.

Well, I got the go-kart out now that it's time to start driving it again, and last year, my brother tried to fit the kart between two trees and bent the front brackets that hold the tires in place to the steering system. The part where the tire attachs to the cart is perfect, the bracket is obviously out of place.
My question is, how do I fix this? I have three options I think, lemme know about any others or how you would fix this.

1) I could heat the bracket up with a torch, and straighten it out with the post vise and anvil.

2) I could grind it off, straighten in forge, then re-weld on.

3) Grind off, and get new metal, grind it to shape, then HT so that it won't bend. Then re-weld.

Are there any problems with the above? Note, the heat should not be a problem because of the wheel rim that protects the wheel on the back.



Second, I don't really know if this matters or not, but when I go full speed, the belt slips in the the wheel, and it gets ripped up/ worn out very fast, like one month. The belt & go-kart is supposed to last 6 months. I don't really care, it's just a pain to have to take it off and replace it every month. Also, if this helps any, the wheel is to pieces. The right side is solid and does not move. However, the left hand side is spring loaded, which is why that moves, because the belt digs in more because it's going faster. So is this a problem? Should I just tighten the bolt on the end of the wheel so that the spring becomes less effective?

Thanks guys, I am looking into making a Appalachian hammer this summer, and am trying to collect some info.

Jamesrjohnson, I don't have any of my sketches on the internet but it will be based off of the Appalachian hammer if that helps. Am aiming for 120-180 beats a minute if possible.

arftist, thanks. I will make sure to check that site out.

Jeff, I am sorry if I irritated you. I had already posted this thread, and asked you this morning about it, trying to figure some stuff out ahead of time. I remember exactly what you said in your above post.
Also, you mind if I power your foot pedal system?
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachments/f57/12911d1238803739-appalachian-power-hammer-build-painted-hammer-003.jpg

sloscheider, I thanks for the info about the startup friction and torque, I'll see if the little giant website has any info on it. I'm gonna check out harbor freight for a larger horsepower and larger shaft. (Thanks unkle_spike for the idea to check harbor freight).

Thanks dodge for that. I'm really hovering between like 1 1/2 and 1 as long as it is 1720 RPM, so that I can gear it down. I'm also wondering which type of belt to use to gear it down.

Edit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4106
As of right now I think this is an ideal motor, doesn't have the biggeset shaft ever, but it is a heavier duty one compared to others, and has the low RPM. If anything seems wrong for me to use this motor let me know!

How big is big enough for a 30lb hammer head weight? I am thinking of getting a 1HP electric motor. If that's not enough, will a 1 1/2 HP motor work?

This the motor I'm looking at: Tractor Supply Company - Regal-Beloit Electric Motor, 1 HP 1725 RPM

Otherwise, if that doesn't work out, I'll find one. Is that gonna be enough for the hammer head weight, or is it gonna be overworked?

Frank, with the diamondbackironworks 2 burner blacksmith model, you can forge a 4psi, and weld at 6-7 psi. It has 2" sq stock capability, along with a like 10"x3" front door.

Frosty, on the next one, I'll make the eye, make the face, then draw the claw end out, shape it over the horn, cut with my bandsaw and use a 1/8" angle grinder wheel to put the V in the curve, it'll be easy compared to this one, lol.

Thanks Art, very glad to see you on here again, I take it all is well with your mother now?

Best Regards,
John

Well, tonight while I was making some split crosses I decided to make a claw hammer for myself. So I took an axle piece (hex) that was 1" wide, and forged it down to 3/4" sq stock. Then proceeded to make this claw hammer. Even though it looks ugly, it works really well. Learned a lot doing this, next bunch will be really easy. Also learned where to put the eye next time, hehe. Anyhow, here are pictures of the key chain cross fobs, and the hammer.

W1 all the way. Speedy Metals Online Industrial Metal Supply

Great job, that is awesome work on the handle part. Like the blade a lot as well. Keep at it, this is really good. Can not wait to see more!!!

Try http://ww.speedymetals.com. It's there, and it's readily available. Just go to alloy and then square.

Pictures please!!! Good luck.

Little trick i learned this weekend from my bladesmith teacher. When forging the point, like your picture dictates, don't do it over the edge.

Do you have a step down from the face to the horn? If so, then place your piece of flat stock that is let's say 6" long when starting. Use like 60 degree blows to one side of the end of the piece of metal that is on the horn now. Flip it over and do the same. Keep doing this until you have a point. Pretty easy from there. I'll get pictures this weekend if my description was unclear.

2nd? Great job. Love the handle work.

That's a great first blade. Only thing that I really have to comment on, would be spend a bit more time finishing, it makes a world of a difference.

Thanks Art and TF for the compliments. I'll be making a smaller one from 3/8" and a steak turner for our grill.

Eventually, once I get stock in.

I really enjoyed the challenges of this one.

Thanks, yep, it's for camping and outside fire. Can be used with one hand, but easier with two.

This is a heavy duty fire poker made 1/2" square stock, 3FT long. Reverse twisting along handle. Forge welded it back on itself for the poker end. Rest of it is self explanatory.

Go to speedymetals.com they have W1, but it's in round stock(drill rod), I like using round to fracture the structure by more than 100% instead of the recommended 50-80%. It also allows you to completely manipulate the blade into whatever shape you want.

Great job, looks like everyone was having fun.

a 3lb hammer can come flying back up at your face at a scary speed, and you might not have much of a face left. why did that happen? you missed the hot piece and hit your anvil. or the hammer head flew off. (the later shouldn't happen)

Very interesting knife to say the least, but I like it a lot.

I strongly advise you read the blueprint, and pick up the complete bladesmith by Jim Hrisoulas(sorry if I butchered you name JPH).

No advice from me either, as I'm still at the beginning of the learning process, but everything seems to be good with the HT. Good job. What kind of steel did you use?

Great job Sam. Really like the stacked handle, btw, which number is this for finished knives?