Iron Falcon 72

I am going to be calling again today, i dont think he would get cold feet, he is a member of the OABA with me, and he has 3 of them.... we had a conversation in person about it when he offered it to me, he says he HAS to get rid of it

He has a bolt on sow block? I stand corrected, sorry.

Smoothbore, that has to be the best explanation of acetylene cutting I've read. Thanks!

No bolt on sow block at Little Giant I think you are thinking of the 2 piece dies put a base in the dove tail bolt a face to it. The above post with dowels and bolts are about as good as you can do. If you can machine the top flat and build a plate to raise the the amount you take off. If you can get the bolts and dowels 90 degrees to the break and not the top it will be much better. I drill 1/64 under then ream to size. Be carfull about too much interference fit on the dowels I split 1 wide open once when I froze pins and heated frame, pins .003 over when the frame cooled and pins warmed up it split like a piece of hickory fire wood. I now use pins the same size as the hole to .001 over. I do the holes in the broken part in the mill so I can get the angle I want. Then I super glue the borken part to the frame to transfer the holes. Pop it off and do the reaming and tapping. I also leave the counter bores a little shallow the dress the tops level so the sow block keeps them from backing out. Don't put too many holes in it as it will weaken the frame 2 bolts and 2 pins is plenty on a 50. Grade 8 bolts.

The mainshaft on a 25# Little Giant is 1 5/8 and on a 50# 2 inch. I have made several of each.

I answered your question , but I agree with the two post above.When I build a 25LG I prefer to use coged belts. old stye use 19LG100. That will have a pitch diameter of 2.268 . They are available In 1 tooth increments to 22 tooth then in 2 tooth jumps. If someone insists on V belts I recomend 11/2 hp 2 a belts. I also have shipped several with a 3 inch wide flat belts. Flat gives lots more surface area with low belt tension

If you have a 1hp motor then do as mb suggested and use the belt that is called for on your 1hp motor. Why do you want to re engineer something that has been done and proven for many years?? You will also reduce the power to the machine by using those larger belts due to more power needed to spin them. If you really think you want to try to re engineer it at least try to go in a positive direction and either use a cog belt or a multi-V like the serpentine one on cars. Those have much less power loss compared to V belts

SurplusCenter.com # 1-2bk32 $12.95

I'm rebuilding a 25 LG and have a 1hp motor with a 7/8" shaft. I'd like to use a double pulley with the widest possible belts, 3" pitch diameter. So far, all I've found is one for an "A" belt. Does anyone have a lead on a wider sheave?

I second Sam, we want pics now :P

I'll be there!!

The shaft on the Little Giant is a standard 1.75". What was it on yours? Looking forward to the pics!

Anyone else going to Sid's seminar next weekend?

Beautiful work. I think Sid will also do this kind of work as well. My wallet's glad I don't need that done. :rolleyes:

The problem with only a cable in the spring is it still can send a small piece of shrapnel at a few hundred miles an hour.
My mechanical hammers have guards all around so when standing on the side of the hammer you cant get hit either.
The front of the guard lifts off and on without using any bolts for easy adjustmunt and daily oiling

Douglas Freund in his book "Pounding Out the Profits" devotes one paragraph to the Little Sampson (note different spelling). He says it appeared in 1907. Basically, it appears to be a copy of the Little Giant with a hole through the vertical portion of the "C" frame. Made by Coleman Iron Works of Elmira NY. Nothing on a hammer spelled like yours. Can you post some pics? Does yours have a leaf or a coil spring? I found this pic on eBay and the title also says 1904.

Thanks to all responders. My friend didn't care which one he had so if this one was not suitable I could trade back (BTW, he only paid $20 for his :o ). Sounds like this is a good keeper. Here's a shot of the face.

Here are some pics. I traded a smaller (100#) beatup Fisher for this (150#+) "Vulcan". My friend is not a blacksmith just wanted something to occasionally beat on some "stuff". This has great edges and good rebound. No ring. The Fisher was my first anvil purchase but pretty beatup and I'd never used it.The hardie hole is 1" and the pritchal is 9/16".

If this is a Mexican or other copy how can I tell if it's usable or if it's better off back with my bud?

No, the Chinese comment was just a guess. I don't know that much about real Vulcan anvils. How are the Mexican anvils?

The question came up because the black paint is stinky when I hit it with a grinder, the Vulcan logo is messy and there are only two numbers on it, a "15" under the horn and a "54" under the tail. It seems like hard steel but no ring. Where are the weight numbers on Vulcans?

I have the pics to download. I'll get them in the AM.

Does anyone have any experience with fake (CHinese) Vulcans (poor casting details under the smelly paint)? I'll post pics later but thought I'd ask first.

Wonderfully creative!

An anvil is not a girl, there is no point in a "virgin" anvil.

Does anyone have a good removable die system for their LG 25 they be willing to share here?

SNIP
Look around some more, you may still find the original one.

Normalizing should be above the dislocation climb temperature for that alloy so at least that. But that would require re-hardening and tempering too.

For new rail probably not needed but for old rail a good idea indeed

Good use of RR Rail?
http://hackedirl.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/epic-win-photos-remote-win.jpg