milomilo

I'd take it apart and clean and grease the pivot area first and then don't overtighten the pivot bolt and see if it moves easier.  Note that because you are in a chilly area you might want to skip grease or oil and use a graphite lube engineered for cold weather use,

 

I used plain old low carbon strap stock to make a new spring for my 6.5" vise and so didn't have to worry about heat treat beyond normalization

Par tof the problem is the existing hinge joint where the outer vise jaw pivots. I shot some Fluid Film in there and it did make it move easier. I will be disassembling the vise this spring and cleaning and lubing things up as well as a new coat of paint. That alone may fix the problem, but it does seem the spring does need re-arching. I will know for sure after it is disassembled.

This coming spring I pan to re-arch the spring. My 30 ton press will get it bent to the right arch easily.

I got mine for $25. See http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31978-post-leg-viseanvil/

It did take several months going to farm and ranch auctions here in Wyoming to find one in decent shape and for the price I wanted.

Bushing in the handle?  I think you invented something that don't exist.

The hole in the handle end of the vise is much larger than the diameter on the acme screw. The handle would flop up and down while trying to tighten the vise. The hole in the handle end of the vise was somewhat elliptical which is why I added the keystock to kepp the bushing from spinning. There is no binding when fully opened due to the bushing. The spring bar does need re-arching as it had no tension when the vise is only opened around the 3" mark.

Is it stamped IRON CITY within a six pointed star on the movable leg?

There was no ID anywhere on the vise. I have saw others with no ID either. Must be a common thing.

I saw one similar to this one here some time ago and thought I really need one myself. Took several months going to auctions to finally find a vise in decent condition. The vise was missing the bushing in the handle end so I made one from a piece of 1" pipe and brazed 2 pieces of keyway on each side to keep the bushing from turning in the vise. I used a 4' piece of railroad rail upside for the horizontal anvil surface. I will be drilling some 1/2" holes for mounting some hardies in order to be able to bend round bar or flat bar. The hardies will be removable to keep the top surface flat when needed. I used 1" pipe for the legs and some 1 1/2" angle for leg supports. I cut the railroad rail to length on my Keller power hack saw. Only took 18 minutes for each cut. Love watching that saw work.

Thanks to all for your help. Hope it goeas at decent price at the auction.

Here is a pic.

I've not seen it yet so cannot say whether it is a Trenton or not. All I know is that they listed it as a Penton.





I did get a number off of it. It is #T155 A80A91. Hope this helps in the identification.

Anvil coming up in an auction. They say it is a Penton anvil, 152#. Never heard of one and found nothing on the net. Anyone here know anything about one of these?

Also my first was also a 4 burner, I have only needed the back burner once so I plug it 1/2 way up and just run two burners. that makes it way more efficient.

Hi,

Newbie here. Name is Chris. Wheatland, WY is home. Just got a 4 burner LP forge. Checked it out a few days ago and got it running fine. I don't have any experience with forging, only a desire to make some things. Looking around the net trying to get some drawings/sketches of tongs so I can make some.

Hope to glean some experienced knowledge from you all. How long would a 20lb. bottle of propane last running only 2 burners? I am looking for a 100 lb. bottle, but only have the 20 for now.