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I Forge Iron

Backwoods Blacksmith

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Posts posted by Backwoods Blacksmith

  1. Having suffered 2nd degree burns on my left arm, under my bicep and arm pit I allways wear a 100% cotten long sleeve shirt or sleeves when doing any prolonged welding. I got burned badly welding up a valve body on a lathe by not using protection. A little discomfort or the time it takes to cover up is not worth the pain and lost sleep, The Hanes or Carhart work tee shirt are heavy enough to keep from getting burned up to about 200 amps. Over that use double cover. Use a leather guard on the chin of your hood to protect your throut. Better safe than sorry

  2. You want the wood to be well seasoned and completly dry. Are you going to stablize it yourself or have it done? You can force season it by using an insulated box and a heat lamp. Keep temp around 120. Weigh the wood before drying and reweigh every two or three days. Turn the wood every day to keep warpage to a minimum. When the weight no longer changes then it is completly seasoned. It is best to rip your wood before drying as this speed up the process. Once seasoned keep it sealed as it will absorb moisture like a sponge.
    Good luck

  3. Why do you think you need a resperator? Are you working in a closet?. Any space with cross flow ventilation will supply enough flow. If not, use a small fan to pull in fresh air. Tig welding is the cleanest of all open air welding. Keep about 15 to 20 CFM argon flow and keep the breeze off your puddle and no resperator is necessary. Read your msds that comes with your rod or ask for one at the weld supply. I have spent hrs welding using a resperator and I would not wish that on anyone. Stick welding stainless is a whole different ball game where air filtration is a must.

  4. Before filing rub soap stone or chalk into the teeth. When you feel the file skate over the material clean with a file card.
    A little elbow grease and a piece of copper will push the clog out of the teeth of the file. Yes it will take some time. (minutes) Once clean, easy to keep clean. Good files are expensive.

  5. Two things cause clinkers. Non organic material: ie, dirt, sand, rocks. The other thing is melted metal in the form of scale or burned metal. Humidity, moisture, age have nothing to do with it. If you are getting clinker using charcoal there is either dirt in the fire or you are getting lots of scale due to an oxidizing fire. Too much air or the fire is not deep enough

  6. You may get some out gassing from any chrome or other finish burning off. But if you have good ventalation and don't stand over any fumes being produced you should be ok. Once the finish burns off, no out gassing. Any alloy will remain in the steel unless you melt it and allow the alloy to seperate or vaporize.

  7. Call the Manufacture of the gauge. Most newer actylene gauges have all fuel seats and diaphrams but not all. I used an actylene gauge on propane for twelve years before it effected the diaphram. I also used the actylene hose with no adverse results. Most of the journeyman size gauges are all fuel. The smaller hobby are not. Many millwrght and welding contractors are going to propane and are only changeing the tips.

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