Justin Keller

I was at our local co-op, they are upgrading their checkouts with newer cabinetry, from the old spinning wheel style to the belt style. They were just hauling the old cabinets to the landfill, so I asked if I could take the motor before they hauled it away. It's a 1/3hp, 110/220V farm duty motor, the gearbox has a 60:1 ratio. Both Baldor brand and pretty heavy duty, I think the pair must weigh close to 40lbs.

So I've been keeping an eye out for blacksmith related equipment, here's what I've collected in the past month:

The post vice is 5", pretty decent shape. Post drill has one broken gear, might use it for parts. The blower is very nice, the firepot and forge table are close to junk, unfortunately. All free from my local classified website.

The jackhammer bits were all free from Home Depot, I stopped by my local store and asked them after reading other posts here..

The hammer is 32oz and basically brand new, the file is in pretty good shape just a bit rusty. Paid $7 for the pair.

It's been a good month!

I just checked, my garage breakers are indeed 15 amp and all of the 110 welders that I've seen are a 20 amp input.

Is it possible to just replace the 15 amp breaker and outlets with 20 amp? Or do I have to run a different gauge of wire as well? If so, then like Thomas said I might as well just pay to have the 220 run.

Since I don't have a 220 plug in my garage (and probably won't put one in any time soon), I'm wondering if it's worth looking into 110v welders.
I don't have a very big budget, any recommendations for decent brands/models that won't cost me an arm and a leg?
Most of my limited experience is with DC arc welding, would you recommend that I pick up a mig welder instead? Would one work better than the other on 110v?

Justin

I came across this ad today, thought I'd pass it along.. I know this is close to you, Mark.

http://saskatoon.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-equipment-FOR-SALE-25-LB-TRIP-HAMMER-W0QQAdIdZ182631822

He's got a 25lb trip hammer and a 141 lb Peter Wright anvil.

Everyone here has really good advice to help you start out.. For my part, I'd recommend safety equipment as a very smart investment. Especially eye protection, as stone chips very easily when you hit it with a hammer. Also, gloves and an apron of some kind are a good idea as well.

The other thing to keep in mind, there has been quite a bit of talk about this around here lately, never heat up steel with a galvanized coating (that generally means steel that's silver coloured). The zinc will burn off and will make you very sick.

My landlord said I could take any scrap in the yard that I want for my blacksmithing.. I wandered around a couple of the piles yesterday and this is what I dug out.

Welcome to IFI, always nice to see more Canucks around!

Went to an auction today and picked up a few things.. The set hammer and 6lb sledge were $8 each, the three hardies were $9 each, and the box of drill bits was $7 (sizes range from 1/4 to 5/8, all HSS).

The Black and Decker toaster oven is for heat-treating, etc. cost me $2 at the local thrift store.

The big sledge head and thingy I don't know the name of by the box of drill bits were freebies.

I'm one of those teenage males who wanted nothing more than to make my own sword after watching the Highlander and Conan movies.

About five years later, saw a ad for a basic blacksmithing course but moved before I was able to take it. I was complaining to my parents that I wasn't able to take the course, and they mentioned one of the neighbors was in a blacksmithing group. I asked him about it, he invited me to a meeting and I've been smithing ever since.

I've been smithing for about two years now, very slowly putting together my shop. One of these days I'll get around to making that sword..

As for the wife thing, that's sort of creepy.. My wife has her Bachelors of Fine Arts.. she majored in Fibre. We currently have eight alpacas, and she cards, spins, dyes and weaves their fibre.

Ken,

Best I can tell, the left side says W 113 and the right says A290-2. I'm guessing that means weight 113, and that it's probably a Trenton then.

Justin

Ted, you mentioned that a Hay-Budden would have the weight stamped on the side, I've checked very closely now and can't see anything but the USA I mentioned in my previous post.

However, there is what could be a serial number stamped on the base under the horn, think it's likely to be a Hay-Budden? Any other distinguishing features I could check?

Bought my first anvil the other day, finally got the pictures up.. The only marking I can read is USA on one side and some numbers on the front of the base, so I'm not sure of the manufacturer. It weighs 110 lbs and has a very nice ring. Price: $50

Also picked up a few hammer heads, some chisels and a worn set of tongs. Price: free for the asking

It's been a good week for me!

Yes, I'm talking about Bill's auction. That's kind of what I'm thinking, there will be a lot of blacksmiths attending from all over Saskatchewan and Alberta, plus the local people and probably some antique dealers (ugh).

I'll just have to hope that they take pity on a young blacksmith who's just starting up and not bid everything right out of my price range. (Which is not much of a range, unfortunately.)

Thanks everyone for all the advice about not getting into bidding wars, I do tend to get a bit excited, especially when it's something I really want. Or I fall into the, "Oh, just one more bid, maybe the other guy's done" trap.

Here's the link for the sale, by the way: Auction

I'm planning on attending an auction for a local smith that is retiring, but I'm not sure what sort of prices I should be expecting for a few things.

Specifically, he has several swage blocks and a couple of cone mandrels. Not sure what sort of shape they're in, although since he is a blacksmith I'm assuming they're all usable.

Also, what's (roughly) the going rate for hammers, tongs, punches, flatters, etc.

Wow, thanks Thomas.. I'll look for the books you suggested, and I won't be worrying about armour or weapon repair. Should I have a vise or not? I see there is one depicted here, which is evidently a sixteenth century woodcut, but I haven't seen any elsewhere.

Thanks everyone for your input so far, I'm getting a good starting point together.

Matt: The plan is to be a "country blacksmith", however I would be the only smith in town, so I should have at least some of the tools to be able to repair armour, weapons, etc.

I'm guessing most of the work would be more along the lines of making belt knives, hoes, scythes, pots and pans, shoeing horses, etc.

I'm looking for information about blacksmithing in 15th century England, specifically.

I'm guessing there wasn't much metalworking was being done in Canada before the Europeans arrived.

To add to the list of questions, what kind of fuel would be used in the forge?

Hi everyone, I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction. I'm looking for what a decently equipped 1450's smithy would have in it.

Especially:
What would the forge look like/be made out of?
What kind of bellows?
What sort of tools and how many of each?
Would he have a vise, or what would be used instead?

Anything else, especially a recommendation of any good books on the subject would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,
Justin

To continue this line of questioning, if I'm going to be making my own handles, what type of wood should I be using? or should I just buy a pre-made one from my local hardware store? What does everyone else out there use?

This followed me home last week, when I borrowed it (he wouldn't sell it to me) from a friend.

The side says: "Peter Wright, Patent, Solid Wrought", then 0-3-21 and the other side has "England" stamped on it.

I was thinking about the previous monthly project, the railroad spike one. Just thinking about all the abandoned railroad track in this area, I was wondering if anyone knows about the legality of picking up old iron from near the tracks. Say, if I went for a walk down the tracks and picked up anything that was just laying loose. Any comments/suggestions?

I think the pipe is supposed to help support, there is a threaded hole close to the blower end, I think it's to bolt the pipe to the forge for support. The bolt the blower hangs off of is maybe 3/8, I think I'll try to fit a heavier bolt in there.

Just finished welding on the clinker breaker, just have to manufacture an ash dump and I'm set.

The biggest problem for me seems to be the fact that there isn't a very large gap between the two, and it's hard to find something so small to connect them.

Also, do you think there's enough space for ash, or should I weld some pipe on the bottom before attaching my ash dump?

Just a quick question.. I've bolted part of my forge together with regular grade 5 bolts, but I was told I should use grade 8 instead. Would this make any difference? As far as I understand, the increase in grades only increases the yield and tensile strength of the bolt, not heat resistance. Am I correct?

Should I be worried about the bolt heads melting and my forge falling apart?

Think I should clay it to make the fire area a bit smaller? I'll be burning coal, although I would like to try charcoal at some point. (If I recall that requires more area for a fire.)

The only things left on my list are a clinker breaker/grate and the ash dump then my forge is ready to go! (finally)