philip in china

Quality certainly can eb a problem here. Also a major problem is that many buyers in the west will pay only very little for Chinese products. If a US chain buys screwdriver sets but won't pay more than a few cents per set they shouldn't expect chrome vanadium steel and turned beech handles!

I know the usual wisdom is get the biggest you can afford and I feel a difference- a huge difference between the 340 and the 140 pounder but realistically not much difference between the 280 and the 340. What makes a difference is that the 340 is on a better stand. So now you have got your big anvil make a good stand for it and make sure she is at the correct height. I don't think you mentioned what anvil it is. If it doesn't have an upsetting block, and most don't, then look to incorporating one in your stand.

I really wish we could keep individuals out of these threads.

Some times fame is just a case of being in a particular place at a particular time or having a particular schtick. We are fortunate to be practicing the art at a time when there are lots of developments and smithing is actually happening. Remember Sandy Bealer's book was published in the seventies and was designed as a requiem for the forgotten art of blacksmithing. We have come a long way since then and it is thanks to a whole lot of charismatic smiths and a lot more drudges like myself.

Most of my anvils are painted on the sides. If I have to leave them for any time I put the thinnest coat of grease on the face. I think the big one is currently unpainted so is probably greased as it isn't rusting. Really unless it is very humid, as ir is here, just don't worry.

To hijack the thread a bit I have seen the tip of the horn of an anvil painted a bright colour so as to avoid walking into it. What does anybody think?? Impaling the sciatic nerve on a pointed bit of tool steel can be a stimulating experience!

Definitely a bucket of concrete- but a round one. That way it is very easy to move around.

As the guys say it looks fine to me. If you later get a "real" anvil that one will make a wonderful bending bench or something of the sort!! Look around for a slightly smaller peice to set in your floor to use as an upsetting block.

2 points I would make.

Arm and hammer are the lower end of anvils. I know I am going to upset people who use them but a 400 pound Soderfors or similar would be much more sought after.

People with no experience of anvils tend to overestimate their weight. How do you know it is a 400 pounder? Have you weighed it or found weight markings on it?

I have a 280 pound Vaughans and I wouldn't swop it for any other anvil I have ever used. It is largely a matter of personal preference of course and what you propose to make on it. As I think I have said elsewhere on this site Vaughans probably have the biggest available range of anvils. I am unaware of anybody else who comes close!

Ask them for a good discount from those list prices! A few years ago they had a 500 pound double bick anvil at a ridiculously low price. I just missed it!

Also if you are having an anvil delivered as far as that it would seem sensible to get a vice at the same time. The transport cost would be very little more.

I have used a lot of anvils over the years and, as most of you know, I rate the Vaughans amongst the best. I currently have a 280 pounder and am very happy with it. On size you need to think what you are going to be doing. If you are going to be doing small work then a small anvil is OK but generally bigger is better. Consider moving it, storing it and the amount of effort in working round a big anvil. These are all considerations and reasons why many blacksmiths have several anvils and use them all for different jobs and roles.

Again Vaughans used to carry sawmakers' anvils in inventory until within the last couple of years. I think they might have been dropped from their most recent price list though.

My real anvils are all inside but I keep an ASO outside as a sign. That has the original grizzly blue paint on the sides and I have simply greased the face. I have used that system in the past- paint the sides, grease the face- if leaving my anvils for a prolonged period without use as it is very warm and very humid here in the summer. Then once you start forging the thin smear of grease just burns off. A bit of burning oil is nothing about which to worry.

I don't know why their "list" prices are so high. I doubt if anybody ever pays list. I know I never do. They supply to government agencies such as the armed forces and almost any anvil in a UK school or college will be a Vaughans. I have used quite a few and have found them uniformly excellent as is all their product line. The amazing thing is the sheer range which they have in stock. I once counted the sizes, single or twin bick. Add on the farriers ( a couple of designs) and the saw makers' anvils and you get a huge range.

I get my students started by forging a point on a thin piece of bar, then do the other end. Maybe turn the end to make a decorative twirl and then bend into an S hook.

Welding old hoseshoes into a bar was a job for a young apprentice I know but come on guys- it really isn't for a starter with no master smith to cuff her ear when she does it wrong is it??

First of all, and I missed it from my earlier posting, thank you for serving in the forces.

Don't weld anything to such an unusual anvil. You will detract from any value. There are plenty of ways of getting it to function well. What plans do you have for a stand for her?

I wear ear plugs all the time in the shop and if I am doing something really noisy I even put earmuffs over the top of the plugs.

On my noisiest anvil I have a large heavy chain in a bike innertube wrapped twice round the waist and fastened with an old padlock. It helps a huge amount.

Less as you lose energy in the interface between the two pieces---up until you strap them so tightly that they pressure weld into a single piece and wood doesn't weld to steel...

I am happy with it. I can't wait to start using it. I am taking a class next month from a local blacksmith. I am really excited about starting this. I was a welder for a long time and still do some welding on the side. I got alot of pleasure from that and have always wanted to start doing some blacksmithing.

I don't know anything about the company selling those anvils. They might be wonderful. I will confine myself to a few remarks generally.

If a company is offering "large anvils" and these are new products then they are almost certainly being made for them somewhere. The only alternative is if they have found a collection of unused old anvils somewhere sufficiently extensive for them to advertise them. As that is virtually inconceivable let us assume that they have somebody casting them.

If anybody has a classic anvil he can get a caster to put it in sand and produce a mould. The caster can then proceed to cast copies of that anvil in such quantities as the buyer wants and OUT OF ANY MATERIAL! So in the world there are cast iron copies of classic anvils which on a thumbnail probably look a lot like the original but are about as much use as a chocolate teapot.

So if you see what looks like a 560 pound Brooks double bick anvil at a price that is "too good to be true", especially if it is a dealer who appers to have several, then it probably is "too good to be true". Unfortunately just because an anvil is expensive doesn't mean that it is genuine!!

My advice to anybody would be: don't buy an anvil off the internet unless you can examine it personally. If you do buy without inspecting then expect to get something that is not what it might have seemed. If you are surprised and I am wrong then Mazl Tov. That is 1 up to you. Of course if you get a deal where people are specifically not allowed to inspect the goods and returns aren't accepted, confusing or meaningless terms such as "professional quality" "cast iron steel" etc. are used then please post details of your purchase. We all like a good laugh.

Loads of genuine sellers on here and other reputable sites so why take the risk??

I answered my own question. Their catalogue currently shows 17 sizes of single bick anvil, 8 sizes of double bick anvil and 2 types of farriers' anvil. They used to have saw makers' anvils but I can't see those in my 2010 price list and catalogue.

For that money you could buy a new one with a warranty.

Nothing.

Hi, Tracy. To how many countries do you export? Or is it a trade secret??

I suspect that with all the sizes you make, and doing single bick, double bick, farriers' and saw makers' anvils you probably have the biggest range of any manufacturer. How many different anvils do you actually offer?

My 2:2:0 VAughans is still working hard here BTW.

Am I missing something? Did the pictures of the plated anvil get posted?

It horrifies me how some people play with explosives and other stuff such as thermite. They perhaps see something on youtube and assume that that then trains them as a demolitions engineer. Believe me it doesn't. Such things need proper training and experience. It's like teasing the crocodiles. You might get away with it every day for a long time but eventually they will get you.

I worked out a cost for forging an anvil here. I contacted the person with the price and have heard nothing since. I assume that being a TV programme they expect us to work for free.