cracker72

^^^

Picked it up yesterday. Too cheap to pass on. Complete with a very nice table.

I've been offered a No.6 GP. anyone know what the GP stands for?

Thank you Charlotte.

Yes he did point that out. 

I did city&guilds in welding over twenty years ago when was an apprentice mechanic. However,  I've been welding in the real world for over two decades. 

I didn't think any liability was given or implied on an Internet forum?

I'm not building a c frame press now, for a number of reasons. The main one being the cost of my time. It would be cheaper to buy a suitable press second hand. 

Thanks for the replies. The common answer I get is, "if you need to ask, you shouldn't be building one!"

However, I did get an answer from an engineer and it's not rocket science. 

So I have stopped asking now but I did ask a lot of people who have built presses for themselves and for sale to the public! The remaining question I have is did these people just guess? I know some of them did because, by their own admission,  they had to modify their design after the frame flexed on trial run. What is really amusing, one of these people gave me the "if you need to ask..." reply. 

On Fri Nov 06 2015 21:38:21 GMT+0000, John B said:

I would concur with that opinion,

Many years ago I was involved in making these, Mainly used for straightening shafts or pressing on interference parts in assemblies.  Smaller capacity ones are available and many other similar types, but most are not as robust as these.

 

 

They were that well made there are plenty still around and come up for sale regularly, Google in Laycock hydraulic press for sale 

No need to reinvent the wheel, just use these as a basis for your design,and adapt. If you only want a small throat, then you don't even need the adjustable table.

Convert the hydrauilics to powered instead of manual,

The throat on these presses is adjusted by moving the handwheel on the Right hand side which raises the table to the desired height, using the four threaded bars, I would not think you require this facilty.

If you want a chat, pop into Westpoint Forge on a course day, next one is Basic Blacksmiths Skills course on 13,14,15 November, or the members day forge in on December 19th, or I can arrange a date to suit.

 

Thanks John.

Right, that's me convinced.  H frame it is. Thanks for that. 

Andrew,  hopefully someone who's successfully built one will be along to educate us. Looking at the log splitter sites it seems most diy builders just copied specs from professionally built machines.  I can't see why the forces generated in a log spitter would be any different to a forging press?

I only want 15-20t. I'm after speed not tonnage. Lots of HP,

Are they though? I've seen static wedges that must be 8" or more. I was thinking a throat depth of 6" on my press.

Yes, that's exactly what i'm trying to understand.

Thanks for that Frosty. Are they that rare? I've seen some being offered by small manufactures. Is a hydraulic logs splitter so different? There are plenty of those about.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to find formulas for steel beam sizing? I'm looking at designing a 20t  c-frame press and would like to understand the relationships between load point spacing, depth of throat and beam length. Also, recommenced factor of safety would be helpful. I've searched log splitter info and the best I've found was "go as big as you can". I've also asked on another forum, and been told it's really complicated and to do a lot of reading...... 

Finally got it set up. Had the flywheel bored and sleeved and thrust washer machined.  So here's the vid for you John B.

Ph1.3gp

400-600 BPM is pretty fast - would make it tough to do quarter flips on stock.

Thanks for that John. Morris of Dunsford? Measured the pitch diameter today, 400 and a bit bpm I reckon.

Yeah kind of need to measure the pulley sizes to accurately determine bpm.

Says 960 on the motor.

Took it apart today. All good except the flywheel thrust ring and clutch leather.

Took it apart today. All good except the flywheel thrust ring and clutch leather.

Cheers for the photo Basher. It's 1cwt. Yeah the anvil is way too low it was going through the concrete!

You might have seen one on ebay recently, well now it's sat on my trailer awaiting instalation.

I've not been able to find any info on them apart from one site by a guy in NZ who has 2cwt model.

Conibear Bros in Crediton for mild steel.

Hey Joe, i have one of these and I love it.