stickman

I can turn the gears most of the way around with the fan fairly easy but still cannot turn it at all with the crank. I found that the small metal gear that mates to the composite gear was rusted on several teeth and cleaned them up as best as I could.  The casting that holds that smaller gear in place is broken but will stay in place, I think.

So I have a busted casting and a fiber gear that seems to be out of size a little and rubbing on the main casting.

Do you think I have a new boat anchor or is this repairable?

Thanks

The case came open last night.  The large fiber gear that everyone talks about seems to be swollen or partly out of shape.

Thanks. I will make sure I have tri-flo and keep at it.

Thanks. I will give th as t a try.

Not sure what happened to some of my words there.

When you say whack it with a mallet are you saying whack it around the edges of the bell shaped parts or what? I have a stuck casing also. It looks like smene used gaske goop t seal it.

My blower has become stuck sine I used it last summer. I have been soaking it with spray penatrating oil for a few days now with no improvement. I have bee trying to get it open to see what is going on. It looks like someone has used gasket goo to seal it. The bolts are out but can't get the cover to budge.

Any suggestions?

Thanks Phil. I was just on the chat room and everybody says STOP. So we are in agreement.

Hi. I bought this Peter Wright anvil a while back and am trying to decide if I need to work the surface more. I hit it with 50 grit belt sander for a few minutes to get to this point:


So should I keep working down to a smooth top or not. I would probably need to remove 1/16 or so of metal to get a reasonably clean top. Is it necessary for general work? Based on how long it took to get to this point I figure it will take 1/2 hour or so more to get down to a clean surface.

Thanks

Rob

I will be on the road a couple days and will be curious to see what you all have to say when I get back.

Rob

Yep. Good news. Square hole, and pegged pivot. Here are the photos I just took.

Thanks for the advise. my shop has a door at both ends so I can get a pretty good cross wind going with a fan. I will definetly install the CO/Co2 monitor before I move inside. I have been meaning to install one for a while now.

Hi Glen, thanks for the advise. I was told that you are the guy to see about getting some coal. I live about 50 minutes north of Riply.

I know, I know, you all say that a 6" flue is way too small for a coal forge. I live in the middle of town and have an existing 6" flue in my shop. I am kind of restricted to one of two options. 1) Make the 6" work. or 2) Put the forge outside and not have a stack at all.

I plan on using charcoal, or maybe the corn method I just learned about 5 minutes ago. Is it possible that the 6" flue might draw well enough for charcoal or corn. I plan on doing smallish work, not building cannons.

I am also wondering about $/hr for burning charcoal.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The forge I have is a Canedy (sp?) Otto forge with a Royal Chief blower. The other option is the small riveter's forge with a champion 400 blower.

Thanks

Rob

I just found this post looking for information on charcoal forges and flue size.

I really like the idea of corn. I live smack in the middle of town so I need something besides coal. I was planning on lump charcoal, but the corn idea is interesting.

If I put my forge inside I will have to stick with the 6" woodstove flue, which everyone says will not work for coal. Do you think I could get away with the 6" if I used charcoal or corn?

Rob