Prokopto

okay called ESAB and they told me what the size and pitch of the threads are.

This is sure shaping up to be some great mystery or perhaps it's a high-holy secret.

The connector (the part that screws on to the mixer body) is a Victor 4-um-1 if that helps

Does anyone know what size thread dies I need for a size 100 Victor brazing tip? I broke my favorite rosebud off at the swage nut and wanted to rethread the stem to fix it. 

My Kindle completely messed up my last post. I went back and edited the copy but didn't notice that "threads" had been split into "the ads" *sigh* So I'm posting this again so the title is accurately reflective of my question. Please don't ban me or put me in iforgeiron timeout.

Bill

Great suggestion thanks

awesome suggestions friends I will give that a try.

1 hour ago, Glenn said:

 

Glen, I'm after a 45-60 pound hammer so I'm assuming the recommended ratio is 10:1 so I guess I need something 450-600 pounds. I'd be willing to laminate some 1" plate in strips to get to that weight as well but one solid piece is preferred.

Bill

Thank you pnut. I should also add that I really want to avoid “new steel” prices.

Dos anyone know where a fella could find something from which to make an anvil suitable for a 40-60 pound power hammer? I live in Mechanicsville, VA and was thinking maybe the shipyards in Norfolk would be a good starting point but most scrap yards I contacted are "Single-Contract Sellers" and can't sell me even so much as an old rusty nail.

Any help would be welcomed.

Bill

On 12/3/2015 at 8:25 PM, Frosty said:

Nice piece. Well done. One word of caution though, at that weight it will require a pretty serious wall anchor if going on an interior wall.

Frosty The Lucky.

Indeed, I gave him an old hook from the same wagon that was 5/8" wrought iron and he rearranged his office so that it could hang from a wall stud and still be behind his desk.

On 12/3/2015 at 8:17 PM, arkie said:

Nice looking Trinity Knot...big one! 

Did you form the curve on each piece by fullering the outside portion, like with a cross pien hammer?

Actually, I bent the sections along the flat plane by dropping them hot across the anvil horn which I hear is called an inertia bend.

You're hooked now.... :-)

10 hours ago, matto said:

i sealed mine with stove sealent.  but you don't need anything inless you have a big gap.  some guys use clay or refractory

cement.

thanks

Does anyone know if the different components of the fire pot originally had any sort of dope or sealant between all the connections? There is the fire pot, the ring that has the sockets for the clinker breaker, and the tuyere pipe. It all fits quite snugly but I was wondering if those connections were originally sealed with something.

On 12/4/2015, 8:09:49, matto said:

the clinker braker in two of my forges are mild steel.  and have held up just fine.  

sweet I have some mild steel that will work. thanks

2 hours ago, Kozzy said:

Be aware that T304 stainless should not soak in the roughly 600 to 1200 degree F range because the material can degrade by a process known as "green rot"

"Green Rot

A form of high-temperature attack on stainless steels,nickel-chromium alloys and nickel-chromium iron alloys subjected to simultaneois oxidation and carburization. Basically, attack occurs by first precipitating chromium as chromium carbide, then oxidizing the carbide particles."

The material can actually become brittle and flake away/crack.  Whether this will happen in your case, I can't say--it's sort of a hit and miss things.  Often even if it does happen the results are often still better than lesser materials.  Just an FYI

thanks. yes, he first tuyere cover I made for my buffco rivet forge was 1/4" stainless and it flaked away after two years and got thin especially where I'd drilled it... this last one has not so indeed it must be hit and miss. The issue with the stainless in the rivet forge is that sometimes I see it glowing red so I know it is sinking heat away from my work. Still I can forge weld in it just fine so it must not matter as much as I think.

2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Many Metal stores sell cast iron as well as steel,  Window weights come in differing sizes you may need a larger one depending on the size of your tuyere

Yes my tuyere will require about 2.5" x 3.5". I have a super powerful champion blower that I've been holding on to for about 4 years. I can't wait to get this thing built and lite it!

Great idea, I was just wondering where to get a piece of solid cast iron the right size

18 minutes ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Being a heat sink shouldn't be an issue. That part of the forge should not be getting that hot to begin with.

wow, okay great so a chunk of 1045 or anything will work? Does it need to be solid or do you think a clinker breaker welded up from 1/4" flat bar would be okay?

okay I found a 2 1/2" x 5" 304 stainless bar to shape into the clinker breaker. It is my experience that stainless holds up well as a fire pot component. (I have used 1/4" 304 plate for a tuyere cover for years). How much of a heat sink will this clinker breaker be at 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" long?

7 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The original was cast iron; but if you are greatly concerned about heat loss titanium will be a better choice; probably cost more than my pickup...

There are several places where you can find old catalogs that might have a better engraving of what it should look like.  Also try the US Patent Office.

If the anvilfire store is working then they sell a CD rom of Champion catalog, fliers, patents, etc

 

Thank you so much Mr. Powers. I will try those suggestions.... ahem... except for the titanium. :-)

Does anyone have or have information on a Champion Whirlwind 712 forge pot? I recently acquired one that is missing the clinker breaker but is in otherwise great shape. I would like to know a few things... of what material should the clinker breaker be made so as to sink less heat from my fire and does anyone have a picture of one of these fire pots? (here is a picture of one like mine only with the clinker breaker but I cannot see it well enough to copy its design)

Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,

Bill

thanks all for the encouragement... means a lot to a rookie.

This is a Trinity Knot I made, from a 19th century wagon tire, for my mentor as a gift. It took me almost 40 hours. (part of that time was trying to figure out how to bend the wagon tire sections on their opposite plane). The wagon tire was almost 10 feet in circumference and the entire thing is 34 inches across and weighs 33 pounds. The hanger is just a bit from the same wagon.

Bill

1 minute ago, Prokopto said:

I made these for my Associate Pastor and Assistant Pastor at church to say thank you for their many many years of service.

great idea thanks