marekz

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Very nice Frosty, Im using RR spikes to learn about moving steel in general. Forging is amazing. I love it. Now to practice,practice,practice.lol-Thank you-Marekz

Aldo Bruno from new jersey steel baron( as mentioned above) is a great source. I would suggest some 1084 steel to start with- a bit easier on the heat treating and a wonderful steel.-Marekz

I found this in craigslist. The guy said it works great. Anyone near there?- sounds like a good deal-Thanks-Marekz
http://duluth.craigslist.org/tls/2973039894.html

Welcome aboard Mark, glad to have ya.

Do you think it may be a good idea to learn the craft before you start trying to use period techniques and tooling? It's really REALLY easy to spend way more than necessary on a new skill when you're not up to speed. A hair drier works very well for the draft and you can spend the saved money on lessons, club membership, fuel, steel, etc.

Forging without modern tools like electricity can be done even if you have a modern shop, just don't flip a light switch or turn anything else on. Box bellows, single acting bellows goat skins, etc. are all "primitive" ways to draft a forge and are easy enough to make. Heck, just aim the draft into the wind and use a funnel to concentrate the breeze. Can't get much more period appropriate than the wind.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thank you Frosty, I wanted to have an electric free set up. I am jumping the gun a bit. Bellows sounds like a good idea. Ill move in that direction for now. In the last couple days Ive been forging RR spike in my gas forge- much fun. I am going over a " blacksmith's " house next weekend. Thanks for the wake up. _ Mark

Hello, anyone have any opinions or words of wisdom about this forge set up. Notice the missing crankcase top. Thank you-Marekz

I have a small Champion blower just like that one and it works really well on my smaller brake drum forge. The thing about it is that it will definitely tire you out a lot faster than my Champion #40 attached to my main forge while producing a good bit less air.

Thank you Arcc, do you mean the champion works best on the small break drum versus using it on the main forge. I dont know the number on the champion forge pictured above but im guessing its a #40.Whats the difference between a 40 and a 400. Ive been searching around and had alot of hits on the champion ( repairing/use of etc...) but there isnt that many hits on the canedy royal western chief. My ultimate goal is to build a semi large stationary forge. I dont plan on ever moving it. I would use my gas forge for that. Are those prices reasonable if there in " fine" working order. BTW- both these come from a blacksmith whos been forging for over 30 years. He had them in storage until i inquired about them. I trust him. As was mentioned by Matto, the canedy is the cream of the crop- im just worried about repairing it ( when it need be) because of the limited info out there. Please remmember , i am very very new to all this, so if my logic is off, i apologize . Thank yall- much--Marekz

Thank you Thomas, i am currently stuck on- forging with out the use of electricity or gas. The name slips me ( brain fart) but i was also considering the hand pump air blower- double handled thing you squeeze like an accordian. Thank you-Mark

Hello Yall, my name is Mark , Im from Athens Georgia. I have finally took the dip into forging steel for arts and knives. I was looking to buy a hand crank . I am currently looking at the 2 blowers below. 1 is a canedy otto , and the smaller one is a Champion blower. Can any one assist me in making my decision on which one to buy. The smaller champion is approx $175 and the larger canedy royal is $320. Both are in " fine working order. Any benefits from one over the other. Thank you Mark .