Max and Kate

Looks to be a nice setup a bit pricey and another belt grinder would be needed, might give it a go and build another grinder with a 2" belt.

Max,

Take a look at this jig which really isn’t a jig at all. Fred Rowe invented the thing and many have found it to be invaluable, especially for just what you are doing. It allows you to do your grinding free hand yet right on the money, in effect “teaching” your hands how to do it correctly.

http://bubblejig.com/

http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?10307-Flat-grinders-Bubble-Jig-with-something-to-grind-on.-July&highlight=bubble

"I would need an adjustable table on a grinder for that to work for us."

there was no table on his grinder, just a contact wheel and a platten. It was a bader.

Good idea, I would need an adjustable table on a grinder for that to work for us.

I have a 1" Grisly belt grinder which I would like to put a 24 degree edge on newly forged blades, is there a system that would allow me to grind a newly forge blade to the desired angle on all four sides of a blade? I am willing to buy another system or grinder that will help get that perfect edge.

I also heard about using sand to treat the metal but why I don't really know, just bury the blade in sand to cool it. Has anyone heard of this method? I suppose it depends on the type of steel used.

We received our Metalsmith a couple weeks ago and do love it, gets real hot at 5 psi and with the idler valve can save a bunch on fuel costs.

Will keep you posted Feb. 6 we have a open forge in Wakeman, Oh. its posted on our web site www.nob-blacksmiths.org . The web site usally keeps you up to date on meetings and open forges, but is behind in every thing else. We have alot of members that belong to MABA both groups are great and has a bunch of good people. Keep the fire burning and the iron hot.

Welcome to iforgeiron, alot of good stuff here, if you don't mind telling where your located at in SE Michigan I would like to know. I'm from NW Ohio, if you don't thats fine or you can send a message to my mail box. If your not to far across the state line I would like to invite you to the North West Ohio Blacksmiths meetings and open forges. We do have some members from Michigan.

Most everything has been said on chain mail, Kate makes Chain Mail jewelry for fun and has sold some too, she knows about 6 or 7 different ways to make the links, she's been at it about 3 years. I have been repairing a leather and chain mail jerkin this winter hope to have it done this summer.

If you`re going to be moving the tank around and disconnecting and reconnecting it then all soft copper may not be the best idea.Every time you bend the copper line you work harden it a little bit.After a time that soft copper becomes hard copper and will crack or break.
Some of the copper line out there is of questionable quality.The company who installed our oil furnace tried 3 times to flare the ends of the copper fuel line and each time it work hardened and cracked enough to seep fuel oil.The tech finally pulled a new coil of line and flared it no problem.He took a hammer to the first coil so his boss wouldn`t be tempted to send it back out with someone else.
Think about using the copper to plumb from the burners to a convenient point on the cart,like behind the forge,and then go with either approved rubber line covered with the TIG sleeve as suggested above or go with an industrial braided line from the cart to the tank.That way you won`t have to worry too much about what`s going to happen when someone either kicks the tank or bumps the cart.You are putting locking casters on the cart aren`t you?

I use copper line alot. the lines i use are 1/4 or 3/8. its soft copper and i just bend it to shape to run to my forge from a large tank. I flair both ends and have screw on compression fittings. works great to me. also sometimes i will have copper lines that run from the forge and down the side of the cart or table close to the ground, then ill have my rubber hose connect, i do this to keep the rubber as far from the HOT forge as possible.

Good info, will keep these tips in mind, still have plenty of time to research for more info. An outside tank is being considered, the hose would be long. Is there a maximum length for the hose to say a 100# tank?

Right now we have a solid fuel forge and we where thinking of upgrading to a propane in the next 6 to 8 months. We have a stand on wheels that will work great, it has a shelf below that is large enough for a 20-30 lb. tank. I don't know if this is feasible having the tank below the forge itself for safety reasons. If not how far away should the tank be from the forge?

Hello all Max and Kate here. My wife Kate has forged in years past until she married me, moved from her parents home. When announced by her folks that the old forge room was falling apart and soon to be torn down we moved all her equipment to our place. She was taught by her uncle who is a master blacksmith so we set up the forge in the garage which is cinder block. Went and spent vacation time with uncle Bill and learned the basics of blacksmithing. A new anvil was need and tools so we made some tools and acquired a 332 anvil. Hope to learn more here and to contribute to the forum. My wife and are partners in the forge and work together having fun and socializing with others who are interested also. Happy Forging.