jason hawk

After the other feedback my comment would be to keep an eye on the location of the rivets. The first one is very close to the edge of the timber handle. Bet it does not cause you any trouble but its weaker and, to my eye, does not look as good.

Cheers

great suggestion! thanks

jason

thanks for the props man! let me know when you have a blade to look at, love to see what you're workin on. cheers!

jason

thanks a lot!

it cut great and has spring to it so i'm not worried about breakage. the blade does indeed curve down slightly. i'm livin in chicago right now and if anyone know a bladesmith in the area i would love to know about it. cheers

jason

hey thanks for looking. i used your standard home depot epoxy. when i did the heat treat first i got the blade up to the critical temp (non-magnetic) and immediately quenched it in oil. next i got another piece of stock screamin hot and laid the blade on its back edge on the stock, letting the heat rise to the blade until the blade got to straw yellow then i immediately quenched it in water. then i did 2 cycles of equalization in the oven at 350 for an hour each a day apart. that was about it. any suggestions? cheers!

jason

thanks! it was a blast to make. i think its going to be the first in a long series for me. cheers!

this is my first attempt at badesmithing. the stock is a recycled old file and the handle is aged cherry with brass rivets. any tips about what i might do to improve my knives would be great. thanks for looking. cheers

jason

here is the finished blade, being my first knife there are many thing i will do differently but by and large i'm pleased

these are all excellent looking machines gents! i have wanted to build one of these for a bit now... does anyone have plans they would part with or a nudge they could give me in the right direction. cheers

jason

welcome to the site, and I already wrote out your answer in the Sticky's here in the knife heat treat section Dont forget to post photos of your finished blade, we all love pic's

you know, i think i found the sticky (naturally right in front of my nose (remember: first forum)). the question i have now is this. the place where my forge is located is about an hour away from an oven i can use. any advise on getting a blade to keep from cracking in the time it takes me to get to the oven? cheers

jason

welcome to the site, and I already wrote out your answer in the Sticky's here in the knife heat treat section Dont forget to post photos of your finished blade, we all love pic's

thanks for gettin back to me steve. i'm a bit embarrassed to say that not only am i new to bladesmithing but this is my first forum... i have no idea what a sticky is or where to find it... a thousand apologies for my complete lack of internet/bladesmithing know-how. and yes i will most certainly post pics. thanks again steve.

jason

hey everybody, i'm new to the forum and new to the art of bladesmithing, although i have been a metal sculptor for many years. after reading many bits of info from many sources i'm confused. i'm trying to make a blade from an old file and i can't figure out the proper way to temper/heat treat it. do people use the oxide film color spectrum method (as one might use when blacksmithing a chisel for example) or is the best way to heat it in the oven. if using the oven method is any further quenching done? sorry for my ignorance, but you all seem to know whats up and any insight would be greatly appreciated. cheers!

-J-