horseshoer1983

1/2x1/4
1 1/2
3/4x 3/8
3/4x 5/16
3/4x 7/16
5/8x 3/8
5/8x 5/16
7/8x 3/8
7/8x 7/16

i usualy keep 50ft of each.

i think the problme entails the fact that you came on here sounding like a collector.

Talk to me when you cant pay your mortgage with out using an anvil to make money that is need.

body forms and what not need to have a bit of wood working skill as well.the tail block and neck blocks are wood. as is the rock maple "broomstick" that connects the 2 tails and supports the sound well. . then you have to work out where your biscuit will set so the intonation is right. it would be a ton of work tooling u for this with a high failure rate.

urgh reading this reminds me that i need to relign my gas forge soon.

i wear mine on the right hand. being a farrier and being right handed its never near a nail when im ringing nails off. when im forgeing its on my hammer handle and not the tongs.

my big double bick is on a 100+yr old red elm stump burried 4ft in the floor. 4 steel horseshoes are drove in on the feet. the other 4 are on angle iron stands that i built. and the 77# emerson on my rig is on a swingout and i have stump on aluminium legs that is laminiated marine grade plywood 15in thick.

matthew. i cant go nowhere with out running into someone from one of the other fourms lol i stole dans idea of using rasps for stock to turn shoes out of after talking to him on wcb one nite when i was out of stock lol . i made a couple push gouges out of the tangs that work great when i bother to use them.

j.m shrader aka "halfmiler"

This is an amusing thread. Back to the basic question: The fella that posted this question can answer it. Can you flatten a sax? Can you attach the fretboard? The bridge assembly? Do you have the tools to do all of these things and then follow through with electical pickups? If all of these aer answered yes then be sure and take pics and even better play a little something on utube so we can link up and hear how it sounds...

the sides back and top are soldered together.as well as the sound well. i had my 40's nati tricone apart last nite and put new cones in. the edges are rolled and hammerd flat then the seams are soldered. keep in mind that the raised portion on the back is not merly for looks. that raised section is what help keep it from folding in half.

ive got boxes and boxes of old rasps. they go thru three cycles for me. foot clinching and hot rasping. heck i had adds up on craigs list trying to give them away with no takers. some rasps are better steel than others. belotas for example are total crap. save edge is a close second on the crap list along with diamond and nicholson. they go dull fast and are brittle as all get up. ive switched to a german brand called mecury and so far they last the longest and the steel forges out nice too. i have been wanting to rip on down on the band saw and forge out a couple loop knives and sole knives. im fairly sure i can get the blade forged out but the tempering and what not is not my area.

ive got a few 17in rasps that ive considered heating bending fluxing and repete and fold up a block and forge a hammer head from. somone made a cross pein from a rasp on the world championship blacksmiths board for a contest prize.

block heater from a 1960's oliver farm tractor keeps my tub icefree.

anyone make anything out of old used rasps? i make some clinch blocks for seating nails and ive made a few snaked for my little brothers from rasps. ive even split a few in half cut the tangs off and forged shoes out of them.

clinch block is the only thing i have a pic of.

irontwister. i built this thing back when i was a aprentice. ive got another that im using now but i wanna pass this one on to my aprentice. ive got family up that way and we come in a couple times a year. after the holidays we are comming in. ill drop you a line. ofcourse your not gonna do it for free lol

irontwister. my wife told me if i bring one more anvil home ill be living in the shop. i told her thats fine its got a loft with kitchen bathroom satilite tv and a double bed lol

my wedding ring is green blown glass. a fella in downtown frederick makes em. i bought a handfull incase i break one. they are tempered i reckon. they dont splinter they merly snap clean.

3x4 wood stove i built heats the shop when im not workin the coke.

winters are slow in the horseshoeing business.hooves grow alot slower in the winter. 6wks between resets vs 4wks when warm weather is around. i spend alot of time in the shop in the winter. making shoes and tools and such. i usualy find something to keep my self busy.

posted in the wrong thread

looking for someone to do a little bit of welding for me. my mig is in the shop being worked on and the weld broke on my stalljack at the table to shaft weld. im near charlestown wva.

pic of it intact and my favorite hammer

glen i move cars and tractors in the shop that way!!!

i run my nc 2 burner at 4-6psi for modding and shaping keg shoes and 10-15psi for handmades and forge welding barshoes and such. i go thru 2 tanks a week in the mobile rig. everything in the shop is done in the coke.

if im praticing for a contest or heating stacks of all 4 shoes ill crank it up to 20psi. repeitive forging i run it a big higher for faster recovery.

wanna sell a few? in competition we use anvil tongs for holding shoes for hot rasping. those balls would be a nice counter weight for anvil tongs.

From the picture it looks forged but what can you tell from a picture. I'm sure that we'll soon find out how good an anvil it is once he gets it on his rig and puts it to work. It might well turn out to be one of the best anvil around. Good shoeing with your new anvil! Merry Christmas too. Give us a report on the anvil, OK?

what size stock will you be using? i may have a few old pairs of 1/4,5/16 and 1/2 tongs in the bottom of my traveling competition box. diamond and mustands. might even be a set of jim poor's flatland forge tongs that i missed my mark and mangled.