russell_smith93
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Posts posted by russell_smith93
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the local blacksmith club ordered a semi truck load from a coal mine in Oklahoma, I bought 2 tons for 300.
for those who use coke, or would like to , do you have any oil refineries around you? coke is also a byproduct from refining you might be able to get some from them -
warning:Zombie thread
I like bois d'arc or Osage orange - partly because it's native here and partly because it is commonly used in bows and makes a really good hammer handle, it's also pretty. Fruit wood cuttings out of orchards work well also. I also have a couple of handles from Arizona ash and they work great if you don't cross the grain, otherwise they will split or break. Lots of species will work but hickory is simply a very good wood for hammer handles, which is why it is the classic choice.
now that some time has passed, how is the hedge working for the hammer handles? I need to rehaft some hammers,& I am not really fond of some commercial handles, not to mention you could go broke buying them from the hardware store.
as I am in Ks hedge is also very common here,& is hack berry. -
Yep, I am here, too. I wondered why I suddenly got a lot of questions about tong blanks.
yup, you can blame me
Sha-ul
btw I have passed your site onto the local black smithing club for southern Ks as well. -
zombie thread!!!!
what was your conclusion on the southern steel anvil?
I do have one, it is a farrier's anvil, I am guessing it is 90-100# the hardie hole measures 7/8,& the horn is wider than the face. -
Fwiw the black gunk you find on sucker rods is generally Iron sulfide, aka b.s. it can build up quite deep in some oil field equipment such as gun barrels, heater treaters, water knockouts,& stock tanks. some wells produce a lot, others produce almost none.
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Danr gets the tong blanks from me. They're acutally laser cut. Here's a picture (for everybody else) of that the head looks like.
I'm not overly fond of forging tongs. I'd rather spend the time forging knives. I've cut them from 5/16, 3/8, and even a couple out of 1/2 inch. My next rev will include a pre formed style for bolt tongs.
Jamie
I stumbled across this thread looking for something, but there is a lot of good info here.
Jamie, you might want to update this thread with your newer designs;)
regards Sha-ul/ Russ -
Here's a nice quick project for you guys. A quick and dirty bending fork. Start with about 12 - 14 inches of 1/2 inch round bar (whatever you use should be 1/2 of your hardy hole dimension). Great use for that spring you spent so much time straightening out.
Put a little joggle in both ends like the picture, and then bend it in the middle. If one end comes out a little longer, hammer it down even, while you still got a lazy bend in it. Now hammer the bend tight on itself like the first illustration. At this point, with the heat just in that bend, lay it on the anvil and align the two joggles. If you want, you can clamp it tight and put some tack welds right where the joggles come together and a few places on down. Now you make the next bend in the other direction (about 2+ inches) and hammer everything tight. You can weld some of the joints if you want or leave it naked. Test it in your hardy hole and hammer down if needed. Now go show it to the wife/husband/mother/father, they -
I am frustrated with trying to make tongs. I think they are slightly advanced for my skill level. Pliers and channel locks are not ideal either. I am thinking about BUYING NEW AT RETAIL PRICE two (2) pair of tongs. At $40 or so a pair this will kill an entire months hobby budget.
I am learning on "smaller" materials such as 3/8 and 1/2 inch square and round. I also have some thick sheet metal. I expect to want to use larger materials in the future. I have a gas forge currently, and may build a solid fuel forge in the future.
I am not currently interested in reworking another tool, or adding long handles to pliers or channel locks (although I likely will do this eventually)
There seem to be about 10 common types of tongs in a whole bunch of different sizes. I am interested in the opinion of what 2 pair you would select
to be used with a variety of stock that a beginner can learn the most with.
Phil
I know I am coming in late to the conversation, but have a look here.
Polar Bear Forge he has laser cut tong kits that you just need to do some final shaping, slitting, or other minor work for $8,& $10
he posts on the armourarchive a bit, he may be here as well, but I couldn't tell you -
I am acquainted with frosty from the maf, I noticed this thread& wondered if they were the same person, and it looks that it was....
I am sorry to hear of his accident, but I am happy to hear he is improving. -
Here's the result of 1/2 an hour with a hand hammer and piece of 1-1/4 round 4140. OK I did use a sledge to upset the shoulder. This is why I can't understand all of the "shortcuts". Yeah, I just made it five minutes ago.
Grant, how far did you draw out the taper before driving the piece into the hardie hole?
also how long of a piece did you use?
Need ideas for R&R rail anvil unlimited rail!!
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
if you could get several extra feet of rail, take 2 pieces equal length, weld them back to back upright,& the weld a 3rd shorter piece to the top. wouldn't that give you bouth a larger striking area, & lots o mass under it?