pinetar

The Johnson is a huge waste of gas at today's prices. I count my usage of propane in gallons per hour, literaly. I would either build a forge or buy an efficient one and forget the Johnson.

If you were doing production and needed a lot of irons in the fire, it would be a different story.

For a propane forge, you do'nt need a blower.

Tandy leather sells a smaller veersion.

Anyone have plans for that style hammer?

I don't even know if I want to B a blacksmith. Are there smithing groupies at hammer-ins?
Sure would be nice to have a pretty young umbrella girl hand me hammers. Maybe someone about 35 yrs younger than myself.

At first looks, I would build a crate to be able to lay it over with a towmotor, prevent rolling and place it on a flat bed. Hopefully the TM could lift and set it in your shop.

An employee taught me how to stick weld on various carnival equipment. I have built many semi trailers for the business and eventually in 1968 my dad acquired an Oxiweld mig system with a yard arm that we still use today.

In the late 40's my dad worked as a machinist but decided to enter the carnival bus. full scale. I recall him welding a kiddie swing ride and beating on the welds with a sledge hammer to prove to him that he knew what he was doing.

Neither of us ever had a weld fail.

No tig exp. here, but I really like my Oxiweld mig on steel and alum. New in 1968.

Standard fire brick forges are usually gas hogs with long warm up and cool down times.

The large Johnson's I have seen are more industrial forges and not a good choice for someone starting out.

I skipped the middle man and bought a Johnson heat treat forge/furnace (Pedestal model) at a school auction in Columbus OH for US$40.

The white and green is connected on a home buss panel but I had to consult the Nat. code one day and found that outdoor house trailers and such need to have the grnd (green) and neutral (white) isolated and not on the same buss bar.

Will we experience your struggle on youtube.com with the ribbon twist?

rendering of the railings & photo of the roof deck stairs. staircase has since been boarded and plastered, etc.

Ooh, I like them beeg!

I've rebuilt them using standard fire bricks and a masonry saw. And a little joint butter.

I have a 3 phase hyd unit I could use but some yahoo threw out a couple of heavy hyd. cylinders. I have been around many hyd. systems so I may attempt to plan on a build.

I had some european 18" dia. air cylinders but I think those are gone also. I still have a larger air comp. that is not being used but it is still expensive to operate.

No forge, no oven but a strong interest.

This is the one I have. Very handy.

Pipe Bending Machinery | Tube Bender | Hossfeld No. 2 Tube & Pipe Bender | Fencing, Racks, Shelving, Cars & More

I would be lost without my Hoss. manual but after looking at the above links, i need to review it more often.

Keep your eyes open for a Hossfeld manual bender.

Thanks, UF. Any suggestions on what and how much to buy as a good general supply? My understanding is that hot rolled is usually cheaper but doesn't have as nice of a finish, which doesn't matter to us since we are working it hot? Am I correct in this?

I don't have a forge yet but where in Akron did you find coal? Have you been to REX's?

Trying to understand the differences.

I am trying to understand the welding process and still considering a used Johnson gas 121 oven which takes 50 minites to get to 2300 deg. How does that compare to coal?

What about the popular gas forges mentioned here, how long do they need to fire t reach 2300?

gary

What was his age?

Anyone from here pic it up or at leqst look at it?

You may match up the motor frame # so that you get the same shafting and motor mounts. Or have the motor rebuilt which by rule of thumb is 75% of a new one.