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Posts posted by tnraines
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I have been looking for a few hours on a pommel and guard that I like and have no luck. What I am looking for is nickle/silver look to it. Preffering a more rounded pommel and a guard that is fairly narrow on the sides, if I was only a machinist I got what I want in my head lol. Anyway can someome help me out by pointing out some suppliers? Everything I find for most part is brass, and I just don't think it will look right.
Troy -
Most traditional ones did not have a guard or pommel and so no spacers. (langsceax sometimes were hilted like swords; but the using knife seaxes were not!)
thanks -
Anyone make a Scramaseax otherwise called a seax? while there are many blade variations my question lies in did historical ones have spacers between the handle and blade? I honestly have no clue how to make spacers so would need to have made or purchase. Any expierences in making this type of blade would be helpful. Looking at no more then 12inch blade.
traines -
Thanks for suggestions and help so far, I appreciate it.
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Actually you should draw temper on a file before making it into a knife as it's too brittle at file temper; so pop it into your oven and draw it to the temp you like your knifeblades at and then keep it cool when grinding!
Many knives get hardened by heating with a torch to critical and then quenched.
Real chunk charcoal and a blow dryer will work too. A forge can just be a hole in the ground!
True though for say just a attempt at stock removal till can find charcoal or coal locally and the swamped yard dries out or freezes to make a simple forge, could one borrow the neighbors MAP/Pro torch in theory in burns hot enough. Sorry if I make anyone cringe its not ideal or cost effective I know. -
A forge, furnace or Kiln capable of reaching 1550F, and holding it relatively evenly.
Think I will stick with beating the metal then -
Say I have a piece of steel that I cut out to shape by removing the excess steel, I need to heat treat it etc. Reading the stickies on normalizing and hardening and the temperatures involved sounds like I need a forge to get those temps. Is my reasoning correct or is there some other say to get the temps?
Just trying to clarify things.
tnraines -
http://energy.cas.psu.edu/energycontent.html
http://www.rocksandminerals.com/coal.htm
Corn has about 6,970 btu per pound at 15.5% moisture, and bituminous coal has 10,5000 to 15,000 per pound so corn has about half the practical heating value per pound as coal.
I found this intersting too.
Phil
This is intersting. -
I remember hearing that one could use corn as fuel for a forge but need lots of it. How much is alot? I am curious because I got to go to the feed store soon anyway and they have big bags of feed corn about 50 pounds for under 10 bucks about 8 to be exact, anyway would that be enough?
One a slightly different note, what about the wood pellets for the pellet burning stoves one finds at TSC?
Trying to avoid using coal atm.
tnraines
should say making a medium sized knife. -
I remember hearing that one could use corn as fuel for a forge but need lots of it. How much is alot? I am curious because I got to go to the feed store soon anyway and they have big bags of feed corn about 50 pounds for under 10 bucks about 8 to be exact, anyway would that be enough?
One a slightly different note, what about the wood pellets for the pellet burning stoves one finds at TSC?
Trying to avoid using coal atm.
tnraines -
I don't really understand. You ask in what medium you should quench but also ask if you should harden the knife?
quenching = hardening, as far as I understand it.
It doesn't really matter how you make the knife, you will have to harden the material. Use all the important heat treating steps.First normalise several times. Harden in veggie oil if you do not want to see your knife go "ping"...especially concerning files I would stay on the safe side. After hardening comes tempering in your toaster oven, 30 to 60 minutes at 200°C do the trick and you will very likely not see it shatter if you did your heat treatment right.
guess I am confused at normalizing part -
Grinding off the teeth is suggested. Don't forge at too low or too high a temp---too low and it cracks and too high and it burns up. Make sure you don't set a hot file on a piece of cold metal and leave it (conduction quenching!) DON'T stick in water. Save for use for items that require HIGH Carbon steel.
What else you want to know?
well my main question was more after working the metal, what to quench with, and far as any after forging req. Do i need to reharden them and if so how? I have seen many file knives shatter in places bieng so hard. -
I have been given some files of various sizes to pratice with. I got the idea of%
umm where did the rest of my post go? -
I have been given some files of various sizes to pratice with. I got the idea of%
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How are you making your knives stock removal or forging? We need to know what you have for equip. And if we knew what part of the country you lived in someone could suggest a proper steel and tell you where to get it.
Bob
I am in the Dayton ohio area. I have access to a couple decent grinders, a vise and a blowtorch and very picky band saw that sometimes works, sometimes doesnt. my primative forge i have tried to make isnt working well. So i figured id to stock removal for now and use my old files for practice fodder while working on the forge. I am not going for a high polished look but more of a primative tribal look to the finish. I have been looking for old metal but short of trespassing havent seen any so not one to break the law stuck looking for fresh it seems.
tnraines -
I was given a quote for some steel when I called around saying I wanted some steel for blackmisthing and bladesmithing and this is what I got in an email:
1/4 x 3 A-36 HR steel 24in cut tolerance + 1/8 /0 47.44
and
1/4 x 3 A-2 DCF 24in 5-6ft R/L 78.64
this quote come from Alro steel
This is greek to me other the the price any ideas suggestions etc?
tnraines -
Try tandy leather, or that fails crazy crow but they are overpriced imo.
Troy -
Thanks for the replies. Honestly I thought about on the spine area but didn't give much thought as to where, perhaps I should think more on that, I do not like interupting the main cutting edge with a serration. My thought was a multi purpose knife but not the one blade for everything. I got axes saws, knives etc. And honestly I am quickly running out of room for my other gear now that I have an addition to the family, so was thinking of "Hey I am going to try my hand at a knife why not add a saw function for small stuff" Perhaps I am trying to do to much? I refuse to spend 600 dollars on a knife to take to the woods, and I really think Tom Brown's knife is a brick, though sure it is good at what it does. My thought was something rugged, that I am not afraid to use. Was thinking of about 10 inches in length overall, wrapping to handle with paracord. It does not need to be a pretty knife, just functional. So back to the scrap or fresh steel question.
Troy -
All I am asking is how do I serrate a blade not copy what the guy is doing, there are already probably 30 or so of those out there, no just want to add something to a field knife i was thinking of.
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Hope I spelled that right little one fussy again, anyway. After seeing a friends tracker knife from tops, I decided I like the serration on top of the blade, and was playing with the idea of adding it to my knife I been planning. Ideas or techniques in adding them to a knife be much appreciated.
Troy -
Said it was a bathroom vent fan.
YouTube - Making a Field Blade With Jason Lowery - Part 1
about 1:40 in. -
I just watched a video on making a backyard knife anyway what I did like from the video that I saw was he used a small bathroom fan, found at any hardware store, it was prewired with a plug so all you had to do was run a longer cord and plug it in, seemed to work good, but I am new at this so...
And my pic is tilted to the side? :( -
thank you I am thankful for the expierence of those on the forum.
tnraines -
disregard borrowed neighbors stone and works, mark that as a duh moment.
Pommel and Guard help
in Knife Making
Posted
I did try knifedogs.com and knifeandgun.com can't remember the other two, I find lots of things, just nothing remotely what catches my eye. Thanks for the reply though.
Troy