twcoffey

Aaron,
Don't use. This is a museum piece.

Try a "brooks anvil" search on this site.
I found lots of threads and owners.

Bob T,
If you do a google search, "treadle hammer tooling" you'll get more ideas than you can imagine.
Ted

Some slip is desirable when starting.  Once engaged I doubt that a knurled spindle would make any difference.

If you knurl the spindle your can aways remove the knurl if it doesnot do what you think it will.

Dryer vent hose with sheet metal reducers on each end.
Find reducers at furnace supply store or make you own or have a sheet metal shop make them.

Normal bituminous coal is around 15000 btu per pound.

My opinion is that any angle in the flow will affect with the mixng process. Inserting the tubes at an angle is the proper way to do this.

I have some extra tire hammer springs from the same company "Msdspring" that the instructions specify.
contact me at twcoffey@citlink.net. for price.

Thanks for the responses. I now better understand why many of the hammer manufacturers use dovetails and wedges.

I have been having die mounting bolts on a tire hammer come loose.
Is it just me?
Lock washers, and locktite seem to do okay but maybe someone has a better idea.

I am sure you would need batteries to start and run the motor with the solar panels used for charging the batteries.
Solar panels will probably not give the surge current required to start a 1 hp motor.

You have to admit that was a good weld.

I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive a #4 blower gear box unless you have some way of drive it around 30 rpm.
bearing will wear quickly under continuous operation unless frequently lubed.

I took a #4 fan blade and the blower housing off of the gear box and mounted them directly on a 1700 rpm motor. You may need
to fashion a bracket for this purpose. In my case it was a simple 1/4" plate.

With an adjustable trottling vane over the blower housing inlet it works fine for normal sized fire boxes allowing an idling blow
up to and including a forge welding blow by closing and opening the air inlett vane.

Looks like an ACME anvil sold by Sears in the early 1900s with a hardened steel top recently added.
Should be okay provided the top weld is good. Testing the weld by tapping a hammer on the surface and listening for any changes in sound as you tap at different spots on the surface. Uniform sound would indicate an acceptable weld.

I keep all dimensions the same as Clay's plans except as I noted in the drawings and text above.

Ted

Hi Adgjm90,

The item you circled is a lower link arm to be held in alignment by the two 1/4 x 2 x 14 jig pieces for the purpose of welding. The jig is used for welding each lower link arm and also for welding the upper link arms.
By using the jig I found it simple to end up with all four links that fit together without any modification and makes parts that are interchangeable (left to right). With the jig you can make replacement links which are exact fits.

Ted

By all means use a regulator on 20# and larger propane tanks. You are dealing with about 100# pressure and only need a few lbs at the torch. Torch needs to have the right orfice for propane and a propane hose not acetylene. Propane will breakdown acetylene hoses because it contains petro compounds. Notice that all BBQ units have regulators (non-adjustable).
Ted

MacBruce,
Do you have any drawings of the Zipmax for sale?
Ted

Macbruce,
The last two photos answered my question about the mounting. Thanks.
I am impressed with your last video. Were you using the extra 15 lb weight in this case?
Ted

Am I right that the air hammer is not clamped in position but allowed to slide up and down within certain limits?
Is it possible to show a closeup of the hammer mount?

Ted

I am a little confused by one of the first images you posted. Is the large cylinder above the needle scalar simply a weight?
Ted

I'm in the process of trying to rent commercial space; things are coming up I have never given a thought. Indoor use of a propane forge being one

Looks like fun to work/play with. But I think I'll stick with my tire hammer.

Many sandstone wheels came from Ohio quarries. The grit size varies widely and sandstones get soft when left in a water resulting in uneven "out of round" wear. If you like the historical aspect of the old sandstone grinding stone then there may be stone companies that can make them for you via a stone lathe. Don't expect to find them on the Internet. I saw a stone dealer in Springs, MD a few years ago that had the equipment but no orders.
I have several sandstone wheels that I have picked up over the years at auctions but never use them. Delta Machine tools sells a water stone wheel grinder that is far superior to any natural stone quarried in the U.S.

With the 400 lb plate I doubt that you need to fasten the hammer to the concrete floor unless it bounces or moves around.
Test it first before going to the trouble.