stuartashers

so so jealous you guys have it all. Our large scrap yards no longer sell direct to public as massive take over happened. bloody big business. small scrapie yards will sell but generally don't get the good stuff.

Posted 11 March 2011 - 08:32 PM
first off health and safety blah blah blah certain ranges of vibrations over extended time periods is not good fr your health! yes even small ones O.H.S 3rd edition. should be on net some where. in order to suppress vibrations, installations should be deep and massive foundations laid below the foundations of the building separated from all structural components. so mount your hammer on a suitably sized and reinforced concrete foundation and anti vibration mat. mat must go between hammer and foundation and base so b loads of concrete boys the pit should be a aprox 8" larger than the foundation block. the walls and floor of the pit should be sufficiently thick and reinforced to be strong enough to cope with the dead weight plus live loads the base mat needs to be rated at the weight of block + hammer. well it's a very cut down version but I hope it helps.
you can also cast in hold down bolts. the block should be cast out of pit (and a tip cast in lifting hooks) as ropes are hard to get out under a block that weighs 700 kgs +

Hope helps

your lucky when I throw hammers or steel or other things usually they bounce back and hurt me lol I bought plans for a waste oil furnace that will melt cast iron looks good.

I think you mean up load you want to up load to the net try imageshack you first need to in stall your software follow instructions then open your photo file and there they should be then either copy theme to a new folder go to image shack register was free and you should be able to get photos you can get a link for forums cut and paste link and that should be it I hope

yep that's it home of the down under dunney just for laughs it's up side down many years ago they were going to build a pub that way too roof on the ground stumps in the air. "Australia " Oztrailia where if ya aint being roasted you are being flooded.

hay all I'm in oz if a broken down power hammer was for sale it would go for $2000 to $3000 or more then to dis mantle clean repair have re engineered and possibly recast would blow out the cost hence the reason I want to build my own oh and probably a day or two for making gards.

I totally agree it should have (more)some guards unfortunately there isn't any info on what happened the nearest thing would be the hammer end spring broke either flicking out and over the top or coming straight through with the downward force of the hammer I would suggest a guard around the top motor and lifting rod some photos I've seen do show home made guards covering most of these areas

400 hours if you cut it all with a hack saw day and a half if you got all the steel motor an belt 3days if you got to run round took half hour to cut 2 pieces main column and other bits (C channel 6mm ) tack weld ran out of electrodes whiskey and beer also got to stare out shed wish could get payed for that.

I read that the author was nearly killed by this machine and that's why the plans got pulled but one could die in a car on the side walk plane so I wonder was it the fault of the machine? and dose the ol adage apply never blame the tools.

in reference to rail yard you could call them and ask for the shop foreman he may help or at least give the name of contractor and give theme a call. I have read that the author of those plans was nearly killed by the machine and that's why they got pulled. if it were me I would have put up a warning and described the problem so as others could work around it or solve the problem

Heres what a properly built appalachian hammer can do..Though to buy the ammount of steel in this hammer would be expensive..Thats why our appalachian hammer has a hollow filled anvil..We havent been able to find an appropriate piece of steel for a proper anvil yet.. Ill replace the hollow filled one when I do..

Basic hammer plans
https://docs.google....uthkey=CKGjj9UP

Anyone built this hammer?

I totally agree a proper one is best but some of us are a little unlucky to not have hammer resources available I have only ever seen one pneumatic 135 kg 170 blows per minute P.O.A. back in 98 haven't seen one since think building one is a little quicker.

got to convert from pdf to something readable for imageshack hope that's how you guys post photos not going so well.
I up loaded it to my e mail https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B0FNKEkKpHjxZGI1MDJlZjMtZmFiNi00ZTJiLTkxYjEtN2Y5MmUzNWRhNTU3&hl=en&authkey=CKGjj9UP

ok cant find krusty on net but I have a copy as it was posted with no copy right they are complete. can I post theme
?

the issue with hammers jumping around is because of not sufficient anti vibration mat a 51 kg pneumatic hammer sits on 40mm or 1 3/4 aprox rubber mat atop a 1 1/4 steel plate so if you have a concrete floor use mat. 20 mpa is a little weak for concrete 25 mpa is better

first off health and safety blah blah blah certain ranges of vibrations over extended time periods is not good fr your health! yes even small ones O.H.S 3rd edition. should be on net some where. in order to suppress vibrations, installations should be deep and massive foundations laid below the foundations of the building separated from all structural components. so mount your hammer on a suitably sized and reinforced concrete foundation and anti vibration mat. mat must go between hammer and foundation and base so b loads of concrete boys the pit should be a aprox 8" larger than the foundation block. the walls and floor of the pit should be sufficiently thick and reinforced to be strong enough to cope with the dead weight plus live loads the base mat needs to be rated at the weight of block + hammer. well it's a very cut down version but I hope it helps.
you can also cast in hold down bolts. the block should be cast out of pit (and a tip cast in lifting hooks) as ropes are hard to get out under a block that weighs 700 kgs +

Edit: Deleted

you can find a basic hammer plans by googleing KRUSTEY I cant recall if I also used "power hammer" in the text the plans are free
they are in metric the KROMM steal works are in Germany I think but plans are good it uses steel pipe for anvil leg I'm in the process of building it with a few mods the tube I will fill with sand tap down till solid weld as per instructions the main column is two I bars welded together and filled with sand I would personally dig a hole (see next post). the other mod I'm going to make is the connecting rod to the toggle youll under stand when you have plans to you's an ol buggy spring to absorb some of the shock I'll be using a front prime mover leaf spring I'll have to get it straightened of course you should be able to pick up from a truck mechanic. the anvil well rail can be good but if you need to change it well.

apprenticeman this is by far the hardest forum to navigate type in power hammer you get no results unless you buy some divine act happen to find the spot to look in perhaps there should be a front page with all sections listed so we can get to theme without hassle oh don't worry there's no such thing as a master smith were all apprentices it would take a hundred life times to learn it all. I am swinging to smelting cast iron, helps to make your own bits when you just pour theme out!:cool:

my ol man was a striker at the Preston board of works depo recently clear lifted a 280 lb anvil 3 1/2 feet I guess we build em tough in oz . I've hand lowered it clear 3 feet on my own I guess I have to use a bigger sledge to beef up a little to do a lift like that.