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I Forge Iron


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About Mojo1977

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  1. I have thought of that - hence we won't use epoxy around the footings. I think lead is probably the best option here. Would only use and epoxy if we were leaving the footings in place and drilling anchor holes into the footings themselves in which case they could be cut.
  2. Some great adice folks. I think heating the bar and shaking the reailing is worth a go. Designing a jacking system also so will see how it goes. There are 4 or 5 fottings per section so trying to heat all together may prove difficult unless I can work along each one. HEating the stone is not an option and the way the footings are designed the ball shape covers the opening in the stone completely - these guys meant these railings to stay in place! Job starting next week so will let you know how I get on.
  3. Hi, I am looking for a resin or glue which I can use with cast/wrought iron or mild steel. Something along th elines of epoxy resin which we use for fastening steel in concrete - except I now want to fasten steel within steel. In case you are wondering.... I am restoring an old church railing which is set in Limestone using lead. The bottom rail is three inches above the limestone capping with a three inch cast ball every two feet or so providing the spacer. The ball has footing set in the lead. We may have to cut the railing above the ball to avoid damage to the limestone capping. If
  4. Hi, I am currently working on the restoration of gates and railings for a church in Ireland. They were installed circa 1830 and have footings set in lead within a limestone capping. WE are currently trying to plan their removal. The railing sections have 6 footings per section and melting the lead would prove tricky at all these points simultaneously. We are considering cutting at the stone capping and removing the footings individually and re-welding the footings back on to the railing. any comments would be welcome also is their a les toxic alternative to lead out there for re-fitting?
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