Viking

Update: I had this forge refurbished, (aside from the crack) as I was going to have the crack secured and plated. Just so happens a gentleman who owns a museum saw the forge and offered me a $100 more than the cost to buy and refurbish it and that was with the crack still in it. Funny how things sometimes just go the right way. Maybe I need to use a certain someones tag line...how does it go? Viking the Lucky... :D

I am having a friend welding two burner holders on top of my gas forge. As far as connecting goes, is there a certain distance they ( holders/connectors)need to be apart? The only premade connector kit for burners I found was on zoeller forge, but it looks like he uses tubing, and a connector so it really wouldn't matter the distance? I see a lot about folks making their own burners but haven't seen much about connectors on the forums. If there is a link or post about the ease of making them and the component parts I would appreciate it. As always thanks for the advice and words of wisdom. Viking

Which forge did you get? From where and why? I'm looking for a gas forge right now as well. It seems the good ones are about $100 above my budget and I am not capable enough to trust myself making one. Cheers, Viking

Just curious if this rounding hammer would need modification for blacksmith projects. If so, what should be done to modify it? This hammer is the most affordable I have found and just fits in my starting blacksmithing budget. Thanks for any tips, ideas or suggestions.

I believe john nailed it. Hay Budden clip horn farriers anvil from around 1912. Thanks to all that replied!

Am I ok to assume a ferriers anvil will be ok for my blacksmithing needs? If so hope I get a reasonable crack at it at the auction.

No bottom pics as I wasn't allowed. Goes up for auction tomorrow. Would no makings make it less valuable ?(keeping in mind that valuable is relative to each individual).

This is about a 175 pounder, with no markings and has two pritchel holes and one hardy. Looked all over and no other holes or ways to identify. Thanks for any thoughts or ideas on the name brand of this anvil.

Just curious, what is the minimum size pre-fab or space you all would recommend?

Thanks Dan, I knew I had seen something discussed about fire proofing but couldn't find it in my searches.

I took it back to the local buggy shop/blacksmith to get their opinion before I made a move. They said that crack was pretty extensive and he would have to mount a plate underneath for support rather than welding it. They also needed a handle, plate/grate to keep clinkers from dropping down, make a belt and another minor detail or two. Their price for the fix was reasonable enough for all of that. I think for a starting forge it will do me good for a bit and I can always upgrade later. As being new to everything, its easy to get caught up in the excitement of getting that first anvil, forge or what have you. What would be best to put in the bottom of the forge to prevent cracks again? Some sort of fire proof material or cement?

Your father was right. And its going up on craigslist today.

Guess I bought a nice lawn ornament. Chalk it up to a learning expierence.

Saw a little posting saying forge for sale at the old time buggy shop, but it also said broken, not working. Well I was curious so I called and met the guy after work. He said he had it for 30 years and his brother had it for a few years before that. He asked $60, I got it for $50. It has a decent size crack as you can see in the picture which I hope can be fixed. I am a bit curious just how it works, as there is some sort of fly wheel? I think its made of cast iron as it is heavy. I've seen buffalo forges on eBay, but this one has no distinct markings or writing to verify where it came from. Anyone out there who could identify it and maybe offer a value as well as suggestions on getting it fixed? Thanks for the help!