Mark Parkinson Posted April 8, 2007 Author Share Posted April 8, 2007 Skunkriv & Tek thanks for your input on the gear oil I'll have to pick some up monday...I just spent a couple of hours striping down and clean the one box I am really surprised by the lack of wear in a gear box that was built in 1958 (date on the spec tag) the grease on the trust bearings had dried out but a wash in the parts tank showed no wear on the bearings and I repacked them with a moly grease and everything is traveling smooth. I believe I will go with the crank arm as my lathe only has 8.25" over the bed, a great lathe for the small screw cutting jobs etc. I do but I really don't want to over burden it.cutting back the extra shafting makes a lot of sense, the uneven load will be bad enough with out adding extra leverage.....cold out in the shop today the remnants of the gear oil in the case moved like mud it took 2 or 3 minutes for it to spread out when scraped from the box....back to starting the wood stove in the morning again:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_iron Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Gday Mark, Found a few things on the net that might be of use to you. A set of plans for a rusty type hammer like yours, that may help.FERRUM - Daniel Gentile - Mechanical Power Hammer Plans And from the same guy, I found a discussion on Don Fogg's forum, that may interest you. If you do a search on power hammers on this site you will find a few pages other than this one. Building a power hammer - Bladesmith's Forum Board Now I have not built a power hammer as yet, but plan too, so first let me say thanks for the great pics and discussion. I was thinking about your disk or crank question. Is using a heavier disk like a flywheel appropriate here? Thank again, Regards Rusty_iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Parkinson Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 Rusty_iron..thanks for your input...I do have a set of the Krusty plans and they are helpfull but like all plans for power hammers are missing some critical measurements...on the flywheel I had thought about it...but you want a power hammer to stop when you take your foot off the bar, a flywheels momentum could lead to extra strokes ...The extra weight would be great to even out the balance problem that a crank motion imparts to a shaft, but impractical in this instance without the addition of a brake on the flywheel...yet something else to think about Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Rusty_iron..thanks for your input...I do have a set of the Krusty plans and they are helpfull but like all plans for power hammers are missing some critical measurements...on the flywheel I had thought about it...but you want a power hammer to stop when you take your foot off the bar, a flywheels momentum could lead to extra strokes ...The extra weight would be great to even out the balance problem that a crank motion imparts to a shaft, but impractical in this instance without the addition of a brake on the flywheel...yet something else to think about Mark Mark, a VERY EASY and simple solution to the problem of extra strokes, and the way the ram will drop down when no power is being applied, is to use a light spring on the upper arm, to hold it in the UP position, and for the brake, you can add one of these to the drive shaft, in between the pillow bearings:Airheart Go-Kart Brake Disc 6in. |Brakes, Clutches, + Hubs | Northern Tool + Equipment8in. Disc For Item# 13833 |Brakes, Clutches, + Hubs | Northern Tool + Equipment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.