billd

Alec:

Yes I'm taller, heavier, and probably stronger than you. But your energy level is about 10 times higher than mine, and that makes up for all the rest.

Bill

Alec:

Thanks for the videos. Gives me a much better idea of the steps in making a punch.
Even though I'm 66 years old, I want to be just like you when I grow up.

Bill

Brian:

Sorry about that. I am talking about the punch in the third picture and its dimensions and shape. Any info about the punch would be appreciated.

Bill

Brian:

Thanks for the quick answer. However I still would like to know what are the dimensions of the slitter you used for this tong. Is the width at the end equal to the final dimension of the rivet hole? Does it taper wider from that point, or does it remain that width for a bit before tapering?

Bill

Brian:

In the slitter geometry post you mentioned a slitter that was the width of the final hole in one dimension and tapered in the other to about an 1/8". In the picture of this slitter it seems to taper in both dimensions. Is this just because you wanted a heavier body to the tool and the taper ends for the working depth?
i know this is late but I hope you will read this and get me an answer.
Thanks.

Bill

Dave;

Use any steel you can find or buy. Heat it with any of the easy to make forges that are described on this site. Then hit it with a hammer on any kind of heavy chunk of metal. After that if you enjoy what happens you will want to try it some more and revise and improve your forge and anvil and other tools. At this time don't worry about a "traditional" forge or anvil. You will know better what you want and how to make or buy it as you get some experience. If there is any place near you to take a class or visit a smith I would highly recommend it. Be safe and get started! On one post or another on this site I have learned that almost everything I have done up to now is wrong. The anvil I bought should be used as a boat anchor. I'm still using it and it's fine for me right now. The blower I'm using does not supply enough air at a high enough pressure. I'm still using it and it's fine for me right now. And of course I should be using "smiths" coal. But I'm still using my free supply of Anthracite and it's fine for me right now.
Main thing is get started and see if you like it. There is so much to the field you don't know where you might end up.

Bill

for a first tongs they are great! looks like they work just fine and that is the real criteria ! now how long did it take to make um?

Sorry to say it must have taken me 4 hours to forge them.

Bill

Yet another first tongs post. All I can say is, if you learn by your mistakes, I must have learned a lot. They were forged out of a 1" x 5/16" x 26" found steel bar. I drew the reins out by hand over the horn. Pictures below. The pictures that show the tongs holding something, are 1/4" sq., 1/2" sq., 1/2" diameter bolt, and a file (didn't have a piece of flat handy). I know there ugly, but at least they work. All comments, suggestions are welcome.

Bill

I took the class in September of 2009. I found it to be a great introductory class. I would highly recommend it.
The location, on a working farm, was a bonus. When I was in Colonial Williamsburg the year before, the blacksmith recommended Tillers to me.

Bill

I am using anthracite now for the simple reason that I have it available for free. If your paying for it you might as well use Bituminous. I have not had any problems forging with it. It also seems to me that it burns with less smoke than Bituminous. If that's an advantage to you.

Bill

If your going to buy anyway, and Bituminous coal is as available as Anthracite you might as well buy it. However I have available some free Anthracite which I have used successfully. I have forged with Charcoal, Bituminous, and Anthracite. I think each of them have advantages and disadvantages. The Anthracite burns almost as clean as the Charcoal, which is important to me as I work in a suburban area. But it burns much longer than the Charcoal, with much less sparking.

Bill

This has come up in other posts and I thought instead of hijacking another post I would start this. I can't believe that with all the interest in Japanese smiths, swords, wood working tools etc. there isn't someone out there that knows what the flux is that they use for forge welding tool steel to wrought iron. I have seen it in more than one video. It is a large grained powder. It is put either on the cold tool steel or the hot iron. The two are put together (bare handed) and seem to stick together. Then the item is brought to welding temp and welded. What is the flux?

Bill

I have just found out what the sticky flux is... It is laffite plate.....applied between the two surfaces to be welded at red heat with a few light hammer blows to make it properly stick then and welding heat...the norm.

alec

I have attached a grab of the document also saying the website.

The Japanese smith in the video of the plane blade dipped the tool steel in a liquid and pressed it into a powder flux of some sort and then placed it on the iron which was preheated. At that point it was put back in th forge and taken to welding heat. This could not have been "Laffite Plate". However it seemed to act like it in that it did seem to adhere the steel to the iron. I would also like to know what this flux is.

Bill

To jimbob I solved my problem playing the videos by installing an updated flash player. Brian thanks for a great video.

I second the "help" I cant get the video to work.

I use a product called "The Must For Rust". It is labeled as a rust remover and inhibitor. I spray it on with a paper towel on the face of the anvil to keep it wet as long as possible. After a couple of hours, remove the paper towels and let it air dry. It seems to last at least a couple of months.

Bill

Here are some pictures of my forge. It was made with angles, tee, 1/4" plate, furnace cement, fire brick and 2" black pipe fittings. The fire bricks are held together with straps and threaded rod which keeps them in compression. The first picture shows it on the hand truck which I use to move it out to where I forge. The forth picture shows the side table installed. I also threw in some pictures of my anvil stand on wheels. I can wheel it out and rotate the wheels up to use. The anvil, forge, post vice, and other misc. all store in a 3' x 5' corner of the garage.

Bill

Just a post to show first project, a hot cut hardy. Made up from bits and pieces I had. The blade is 2 1/2 x 1/4 O1. The rest is made up of a couple of pieces of 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 angle, some 1/2 x 1/2 mild steel and 1 1/4 square tube. All riveted together as I have no welder.

Bill

Just getting started in blacksmithing. I'm from Michigan and have recently completed my first class "Blacksmithing I" at Tillers in Scotts, MI. I have a small (100#) anvil, home made forge, post vise. I am working on a hot cut hardy. I want to start making tongs. Hi to all. This seems like a great forum.

Bill