chuckster2.0

Here are some videos that show the tapering of a knife blade

1:06-1:51
notice how he brings the tip to the edge of the anvil as it gets closer to a point this is to allow the hammer the ability to angle the steel without damaging the anvil surface
0:12-0:29

The candle holder was a culmination of various skills learned over the course of 3 days. First, we learned to taper to a square point. We the learned to taper to a round point. We then took those points and learned to bend them in to the hooks seen below. After this we learned to flatten with a visible step. This was incorporated into the hooks. The flatten portion was tapered. After this, we made a fork which I chose not to post since one of the tines on mine broke. We then made this candle holder in order to learn creativity. Originally it was supposed to have a round dish on the top but I suggested making it square instead. This was thought of very highly and several others adopted this style in their design. Being a bladesmith, I could not resist putting a knife of some sort on the piece so I made the feet knives. I twisted the metal into each bend and used a torch to create the spiral. Your critique is welcomed and I hope you like the piece because I had a tremendous amount of fun making it!

Welcome to iforgeiron! This is a great site with a lot of experience to learn from so good luck!

I think one of those has a micarta-like pattern. Very nice!

I anneal by heating the blade to critical, let it soak, and then turn off the blower to my forge. I then compact the ashes together. The next day, the blade is still warm.

I suggest you start with railroad spikes, leaf spring, or coil spring, not cable. It takes a certain amount of experience to forge a cable knife.

looks like a good start

keep adding pictures of the process plz

That what I'm planning on.

I think that bowie is the perfect size

I forge this from a part of a car which spark tested as high carbon so I'm guessing it is 5160. I'll start the finishing process after Christmas when I have a few more tools

do you all agree that it is a good idea to have a solid basis of blacksmithing skills prior to forging blades? I know that I made my first knife shortly after getting my first forge up and running, it was nothing special, a file blade, but I see what the skilled blade masters are putting out, and it's apparent that the knowledge rests in the heat treatment and finishing, much more than forging skills. Just tossing a thought out for comment.

I think that if you want to be a a knife maker that is a good philosophy to have. But If you want to be a bladesmith (someone that forges the knife to shape in order to eliminate grinding and polishing) than it is a poor philosophy to have. If good knives are only made from hear treatment a finishing than why bother forging at all, why not make stock removal knives and call it a day. There is a chapter about tribal knives in that book. Read it, it might change your perspective

Keep reading! If you have a question, make sure it hasn't already been asked by using the search feature at the top of the page. I recommend you go to this site Technical Links to give you a head start in further reading. When you do build your forge I recommend forging as much as possible because there is no better teacher than experience and that you make progress steadily. Also, listen to what others have to say on this site because they have a lot more experience than you.

Great knife! You did really well on the flat grind and the finish on bolster and butt cap really do make the knife look tough!

You are actually willing to part with such a masterpiece? Shame on you!
In all seriousness that is now tied for the number one most beautiful knives I've ever seen. By the way I am from Colorado too.

There are only a few blue prints on tong making in the tutorials but I think there needs to be a whole bunch of links to tutorials on how to make tongs. While I just ordered gs flat tongs, I still think that making tongs is a valuable skill to have and will improve your forging prowess. If you can make good looking, functional tongs, what else can you make?

Hello:

Ok...why are you using wire and not flat stock?? You need this to be as easy and trouble free as possible and using wire isn't the way to lear to weld.

Get some 3/4" flat.. say 1/8" thick..some 6 inches long and use three pieces of that..will be easy to wire together in place while you learn the basics of welding with a hammer.. right now you are too concerned with trying to have the pieces stay put and that is a distraction to the learning process. You can fiddle around with that once yuou get good, solid 100% perfect welds 100% of the time...

Don't mean to sound so harsh but you are making way too much work for yourself that you really do not need at this early a point...

JPH

I think he is using flat stock but is having trouble holding it together with wire. I would use more wire and twist the wire

The first one looks like a topographical map of random pattern damascus. Excellent

Where can you find old files?

Look up "washtub forge" then go to harbor freight and get a cheap cross peen hammer and ball peen hammer. Go to a scrap yard and get steel. Total cost $150.

For some reason, when ever I see your work, the image of 1960's female Beatles fans screaming flashes inside my head. I then take note of the various qualities apparent in the work, consult your book, and then recalculate the length of time it will take for me to become as a accomplished as you. This estimate continues to lengthen.

Like key keeper said, the hand does different stuff depending on the job. I think determining the best shape would be a better idea. Take your favorite knife and assign different jobs to it and be mindful of how your grip feels on the handle. Though, doing that will change your grip now that your consciously thinking about it. If you want to get really crazy you could use a tactilus pressure mapping pad to map the pressure on a tubular handle and then shave off material to reduce pressure until you have come up with a shape that can do multiple jobs with the least pressure associated with it. That will probably never happen when it comes to guys like us who have limited means but it would be really cool if someone did.

Why use 1050 when you could use a stronger steel like 1095?

The pictures did not post still

I wish there were bladesmiths in my area willing to help me out without charging me over $100 for a few hours of their time. I think if I become a good enough bladesmith, I won't charge a penny for teaching them but I will get 2% of any earnings they make from selling their first 100 knives.

Here is what to do. Go to Lowes's and get these supplies.

1. Galvanized wastub
2. Threaded pipe
3. End cap
4. ball peen hammer
5. lump charcoal.
6. 50 lb bag of sand
Now go to Harbor freight and get
1. 50 lb anvil
2.Cross peen hammer
3. welding gloves
4. safety glasses
Go to a hobby store and get eathenware clay.
Now make this

the grey stuff is the sand and clay mixed together.
There may be a blueprint on this site but if not, just look up wash tub forge. For all of this and the low price of $105 you too can become a bladesmith. Start with railroad spikes then leaf springs. Also you may want to look up charcoal maker since it is a pain to keep buying charcoal (which you will use a lot of). Good luck!

Reinvent the X-acto knife!