Rosco

I’m glad I ran into this little discussion (thank you to both). I’ve been considering pulling my fan… the vanes need replacing. I wasn’t sure how to go about it. I’ll have to give the screwdriver approach a try. I had considered placing a hardwood wedge in the gears, but I like the idea of the screwdriver method better.

I melt 2 parts bee's wax and one part olive oil together in a shallow large-top glass jar. A coffee cup warmer provides just the right amount of heat. The mix cools to the consistency of shoe polish. After the steel/iron has been cleaned and prepped, I heat it to about 400 degrees and rub on the mixture... buff when cooled. I re-apply it quickly and lightly on the washed & heated metal after using the utensil each time.

http://www.speedymetals.com/

Strongmead,

Hello and welcome. I extended this invitaion below to Stiffarm about a week ago and make it no less sincerely to you:

Come and join us, Sat Nov 7

Bring a Friend Blacksmith Day

Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum, Bridge St, Willimantic, Ct

Bring your own equipment and smash metal, come to talk and or bring a friend that is interested in smithing. 8 forges were fired up and working last year. The event is promoted by the Connecticut Blacksmiths Guild. Hope to see you there.

If you'd like some help getting started, stop by and talk on Nov. 7
If you can't make it, email some contact info and we'll see what we can do to get hammer in your hand.

Welcome to the Connecticut Blacksmith's Guild.

Hi Dan,

Come and join us, Sat Nov 7

Bring a Friend Blacksmith Day

Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum, Bridge St, Willimantic, Ct

Bring your own equipment and smash metal, come to talk and or bring a friend that is interested in smithing. 8 forges were fired up and working last year. The event is promoted by the Connecticut Blacksmiths Guild. Hope to see you there.

Welcome the Connecticut Blacksmith's Guild.

Originally Posted by Oak Hill Forge
I am finishing up all my equipment to do my fist demo next weekend at a National Park. Hope to post pictures.

Good luck with your first demo. I'm in the process of modifying my equipment for the same purpose... wheels on my forge and table, post for my blower, sectional stack, etc. There's a 'Bring a Friend' hammer-in at the Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum on November 7th CONNECTICUT BLACKSMITH GUILD : ABANA (Artist Blacksmith Association of North America) affiliate. ... it'll be my first attempt at a demo.

I forged a two-piece bracket/clamp for mounting my Champion 400 blower on the top of a 4x4 post.

I also watched a nice little 4" post vise go for $20.00 to the guy that got to the tractor show vendor table 30 seconds before I did. The grin on his face made it hard to hold a grudge though.

This is a link to a free online books discussion on this forum :

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/free-blacksmithing-books-web-2032/

Cloud,

Many people get a good start on their own. There

I

CBrann,

I get you on the

Thanks everyone

Thanks for the advice.

I already have slots, but when I lay the rod across the top of the fire box, the heat of the fire is a couple inches below that level. I

I

You’ve got a good point. The one I just cleaned up had a heavy coating of old oil mixed with years of coal dust, smoke and what looked like saw dust. Under it all there was no rust… anywhere. If it weren’t for the fact that anything that came in contact with it became permanently stained with black crud, it was probably some of the best protection you could ask for.

It may be old school, but I was always told that gear lube should be sticky so it isn

The only caveat I’m aware of is to avoid oils with a sulfur-based EP component like most GL5 oils because it can corrode yellow metal gears and bushings. I get my info from the antique farm equipment hobbyists in the area. They have some amazing old machinery… running like clocks.

Thanks for your quick responses. It finally came off. The large screw inside was caked with old hardened oil and effectively glued into the recess. I pulled off the bearing covers and flushed the entire thing with 30-wt. oil until it drained out of the shaft ends. After emptying it out and rotating the crank slowly, it's running smooth and free.

I'm thinking a little 50-wt. gear oil kept in the bottom should be enough to keep the helical gear and end bearings lubed.

I appreciate the support.

I just received a champion 400 blower and want to take a look at the gears. The only problem is that I can't get the cover off. Looks like it's been on for the passed 50 years and I've never taken one off before, so I don't know if it needs a good rap with hammer or a careful pry with screwdriver...
Any words of guidance would be much appreciated. :confused:

I use diluted phosphoric acid or PH-Low (pool treatment… $9.00 at Walmart) in a saturated solution. Warming always helps. Both clean really well and will even etch if you level stock in them too long. Down side… don’t get them on your clothes. Store in glass only.

I probably should have worded my question differently. I was more curious what you intended to use as a source of the steel... new bars, vehicle axle, RR track, etc. (I

It

CTBlacksmith, what type steel do you intend to make the shapes out of?

Large pet stores usually have it by the gallon... equine/farm supply retailers as well. It's typically about $14.00

Both pieces are very nice.