Duster

I missed these responses.. be busy playing with the forge. I did get it to run with an adjustable regulator but I was only able to get one that goes up to 20psi around here,  I'll have to order a 30psi one.  It runs pretty good for about 30 minutes then the front burner starts chuffing. 

On 2/20/2023 at 8:44 AM, Latticino said:

You have bell reducers as burner outlets.  These shouldn't be needed inside the forge, and they certainly shouldn't project past the forge inner insulation liner

This is probably my issue now,  they get red hot.  I will remove them and see what happens. 

On 2/20/2023 at 8:44 AM, Latticino said:

Hard to tell how forge is insulated.  Is that floor a steel plate?  Any thermal breaks between the floor and the exterior of the forge?  What is the crown made of?

Yes that is 1/4" steel plate. The top part sits on top of the bottom part so it is possible the heat could escape between the two but it would have to travel about 5" where it would be met with flat steel and the exterior stays decently cool. The upper part is lined with fire brick/refractory and then kao wool. The underside is lined with fire brick/refractory. 

On 2/20/2023 at 8:44 AM, Latticino said:

You will likely have trouble with running three burners off a single 20# barbeque tank.

I do have a 30lb tank. 

On 2/20/2023 at 8:44 AM, Latticino said:

It may be prudent to support the gas manifold from the forge frame

I am planning on doing that.  Right I'm just using something temporary to support it. 

On 2/20/2023 at 8:44 AM, Latticino said:

From the photo it looks like there is a large hole in the middle of your forge floor.  What is that about?

I designed the base to be a coal forged and then added the top.  The plan is to cast a plug to go in there or I might just cover the floor in fire bricks.

I'm planning on adding doors later, right now I'm just stacking up fire brick. I'll have to look into the Teflon tape.  

On 2/20/2023 at 10:28 AM, Buzzkill said:

Your T's are all lined up with each other.  If they are close enough they may compete for air to induce.   If you turn them 90 degrees that shouldn't be an issue.

Good call. If i continue having issues I will try that. 

On 2/20/2023 at 10:28 AM, Buzzkill said:

I'm assuming this is just test firing and you still plan to add insulation and refractory material to create the flame face and keep the burner ends from protruding into the forge chamber. 

It was but I have been using it like that a bit lol as suggested I am going to remove the flares and hopefully that will help. 

On 2/20/2023 at 10:28 AM, Buzzkill said:

I don't know what you plan on using your forge for, but that thing looks like a well-built gas-guzzling beast to me.  Long decorative bends and twists are about the only things I can think of that would require that much forge for a hobbyist.  Most of us had to realign our thinking from "better to have it and not need it" overkill to "what's the smallest I can build this thing and still do what I want to do?" 

Yes this was a case of "Better to have it" lol I am interested in making swords so that's why the length.  I can already see it's more than necessary,  I will probably make a smaller one later. 

I really appreciate all the responses! I will keep you posted

Yea I wondered if that was the case.  Thanks

Hello all,  I just finished building a 3 burner frosty t forge and every time I try to light it the flame jumps up into the T. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I got it to run for a little bit but just once.  I have one of those regulators like they have on BBQ's I'm not sure if that is correct. I'm using .30 mig tips and a 3/4" - 1" reducer.