D.S. Adams
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Posts posted by D.S. Adams
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Yes the place where the prod makes contact with the stock is indeed angled. To reduce friction from stock and string as much as possible
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Thank you I will consider that, I hoping to challenge myself with this project and have the ability to produce proper spring temper to make this personal crossbow self sufficiently, I do not intend to sell this or give it away. I was hoping to forge it from scratch from bar stock and woodwork the maple and create the mechanism which I have, all I need to accomplish this it to iron out the heat treatment
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Thank you, It is tapered to each end from center
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I have considered that to be a risk as well as being warned by some, I am not a student or minor thankfully and am not currently involving anyone in the potential test or proximity to it. I do not or have not intended to take on this project without considering risks or liability involved with the amount of potential energy haha Unfortunately I am in a mountain town and do not have a spring shop. I genuinely appreciate the responses and insight.
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I have no way of knowing aside from checking with a magnet for reaching critical temperature or by obtaining a high temperature contactless thermometer that I’m in the works of getting. Thank you for your patience
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Thank you. Yes, rotating nut cut and ground to shape from 1018 mild steel, I thought of other traditional nut materials or stronger steels but decided to go with an easy steel to grind for convenience, the trigger is of the medieval type and is a single axle trigger and forged to shape from 1084 as well as the stirrup
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385f for an hour for 3 times and cooling in the oven after each. This is experimental with addition of inexperience with hardening and tempering longer pieces. If I had hardened it I didn’t want it to be too brittle and destroy the work or too soft after after tempering and not hold the draw weight because of the nature of its intended use. I should have file tested post quench but I was eager to clean off the oil and go to tempering. I am not totally sure if oven temperature is exact and I intend to get an accurate thermometer to stick inside. The oven is new bought within 3 years ago.
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The steel is said to be 5160, ordered from Jantz supply. I am quenching in corn/ canola oil, i cannot afford dedicated quench oils currently. Thank you for replying
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New here, glad I am surrounded by some experienced people here. I have been forging for about 2 and a half years and have made and heat treated successful knives from 1084, and 5160, I have started challenging myself with a generic medieval crossbow and steel prod and have finished grinding tried hardening and tempered and even fired some bolts accurately from the assembled crossbow. However, unlike the 1084 I don’t think I’m hardening the 5160 like I can with the 1084 as files do not skate off the 5160 before or after tempering cycles. I have constructed a expanded volume forge from wood stove tubing and casted refractory cement that I intended to replace my last two forges (2 40 psi propane burners)to have enough space for the prod and other wider objects. I have a vertical quench tank of 43 inches tall and 6 1/2 inch tube diameter that replaced my 4 inch diameter quench tube. I have evenly heated the prod a little past non-magnetic and quickly and as accurately as I can plunged it into the oil and agitated it best I could. I’ve tried pre-heating the oil to 130f before quench but I am not able to evenly heat the oil in the tube all the way down/ evenly at the moment. im considering an immersion heating/ boiling element. precision temperature control/ soaking steel pre-quench is impossible for me at the moment. I’m not worried about tempering it because it fits into a conventional oven. The prod sits in the forge out of direct flame and is heated by ambient heat inside the chamber from the flame. What am I missing/ misunderstanding / doing wrong here? quite frustrated my first first steel crossbow slowly loses power due to unsuccessful hardening. Happy to provide forge internal and external dimensions as I’m not sure if I straight up decarburize from to much heat / too little space in forge/ uneven heating, I do have minimal scale when at or above non-magnetic? help! Thank you
Crossbow
in Heat Treating, general discussion
Posted
The taper was forged in, I have yet to complete the new prod due to time constraints, thank you for your interest, the project is on hold while I make swords, and continue forging knives, be safe, have fun, research well, take recommendations and constructive criticism, best of luck