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I Forge Iron

Pigsticker

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Posts posted by Pigsticker

  1. Ive got some 2" steell cable im trying to forge into blocks. I broke down and paid $210 to get 10 ends welded up. How strong is this? Nobody seems to use it, but if its absolute i can start billet there without a swage??? Can i hit "into" it or will that just break it open. What kinda EXACT size swage and angle should i buy for 2" cable. I also have no anvil to stick it in the hole so ground mounted? I use a rr tie. Thanks and sorry if i put this here erroneously.

    Where do cable questions not yet cataloged go?

    And what have i blown 3 times. 3 times ive tried to get a reducer to change the hose's 3/8 female to 1/4" female to take it on a vevor double forge and my reducers will only go in the hose 1 rotation and 1 rotation on forge (makes for smelly forging. I tried to force the last one and it wasnt just a matter of stripping it, it wont spin. Dont know much but it wont thread, i really pulled the wrench. It did strip. Its not just tape either. Doesnt feel like just wrong size thread. (Coarse vs smooth)

    The friendly pig

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  2. I saidh hoghly suggested. Butbefore you post it says to use google for searches but some havent read that part of own presentation. Its actually written over 6 times on searchable info to look on google. I try to not be "different" and follow ifi rules to make it easier on people. I think important guy was a forge and burner maket. Maybe i was calling me important.

    Thanks

  3. Hello all and happy thanksgiving.This is specific question. Im filling in a new double burner forge (hexagon) w kastolite and metrakote. I got 60% done last weekband set the forge in a cooler w 2" of water. I went to check on it yesterday and kinda tried to lift it up by the inside of the forge and i could feel the kaowool had increased in size thicker than it was after rigidizing. Is this reswell normal. In about 3 days ill take forge outta cooler and lay new mixed kastolite upon arrival. 1) Should i remove the forge from humidity box before i recoat or should i just go on top of the wettest kastolite i can keep it inside the forge already. 2) My last question is is the reswelling of kaowool natural. Im terrified of kaowool. If youre not mad, angry or just posting to say your busy, your ideas would be greatly appreciated. Hope yal had a great tday all and are ready for holiday season.

    Thanks in advance

  4. I know its there, just no clue where. I knew they talked about metrakote a lot here so i went direct and searched metrakote and firebrick. And they have algorithms too. What did you search for? Hes a pretty high up guy who said use google. They check this site in that quick search. Its on just about every question i ask

    Plus im just asking people who know whove got a second. People whove built a forge for starters

    Nobody has used the the term coating in any of my questions and which one of those posts deals with metrakote on a hard refractory. That means you didnt read them either.

    I should have said refractory brick above.

    I looked at your search. None of those results deal w refractory brick and metrakote. That was my specific question

    Tx

  5. I did find over 200 kastolite postings in .5 seconds.

    I found some postings on internet sites that seemed to recommend doing whole forge in castolite 3 and metrokote. Ok. Kastolite arrives tomorrow. I will also set my 1" 3000 degree brick in the middle for a flame face(?). Should i metrakote top bottom and sideds of brick.this seems like it will make the most study floor. Anybody know how to cut firebrick in half width wise.

    Or i could castolite brick down to basement, though that seems less protective of a floor.

    If youre out there and can help, Thanks

    Ok. I finally found it. Your are supposed to metrakote the flat sides of brick. ITC the vertical sides for expansion and then kastolite over and under the brick. This wet kastolite will grab the brick and hold it. I keep saying brick but the 3000 degree brick will wear. Away quickly. You want a brown REFRACTORY BRICK, and then metrakote the top and bottom. It said no reason not to rely on the first firing to dry the metrakote. But youll have to cook about 30 min on high. Make sure you have a holle in bottom for steam to escape. 

     You're still mixing to sour cream consistency 

    Tx much

  6. I have kastolite im putting over my forge wool andthick on the floor. Its kastolite 30. I also have some 1" and full size 3000 degree firebricks. The forge picture shows a firebrick on the floor or forge. Shouldd i kast and metra and use it as a floor, finish the bottom like above and add a 3000 brick, or shhould i completely do under the brick and then metrakote the little brick too. Many thanks to all.

    Its a smaller forge. Is there a minimum distance fire needs to be from metal?

    Tx

  7. Ok thanks. I figure ill wear my pretty new mask and work outside on a windy day or use my mosquito fans at my back.

    thanks much

    Try earl grey tea. I cut an easy 10 cup a day habit in just a morning. Tea counts as drinking water too. ( dont know if coffee does too) You dont feel that late day coffee jonesing ( glassblower reference)

    Tx

  8. Also on this post earlier someone recommended putting refractory in over rigidized blanket before first firing. Does that sound right?

    Above im using refractory to say the word kastolite. I assume thats the aforementioned refractory? Am i asking all the important questions. Im terrified of kaowool

    Thanks much all

  9. Nice, ill definately read. Appreciate your friendly attitude,  if you or anyone else ever needs any info on wood, im your man. Not making finestuff but working wood.( i know its a metal theme here but info is info)

    Thanks a million Boss, Ill keep yal up with pictures of progress. Again thanks for everything guys

    Hey good buddies. If any of yal still got yours ears on.....

    Do i need a pressure gauge on this new forge. The new hose doesnt look like it comes apart to put a gauge in by the tank. I think i like having it because on last one.i went from wide open (well over 20) to 13psi. I could meke it 1 week on 1 tank. Or just barely open tank or another just look at it (the flame)

    Thanks and please forgive if i have a wrong word. You seem ok

  10. D it is. I only saw it cause my eyes are getting blurry and i was about to drill my hole. It was really embarrassing to see it finally. Big thanks again. Do you have a start to finish forge posted? Im always looking to learn, except electrics

    Also wondering do you think if only thing i have for any real heat is the forges big burner should i burn in rigidizer. I think last time i did it on kastolites cook in before metrakote. Could be wrong.

    Thanks much, im almost ready if theyll ship my kastolite

  11. Wow, ima have to print all this good stuff. 

    If i rearrange the six pieces wow do seal the back of thexposed wool. Sorry if thata a repeat i cant find it.

    I think i figured out the bottom of the forge is wider, therefore making a d possible with nothing but smoothing joints of top blanket. Thus i leave 6 pieces on walls and curve the top w kastolite. I finally see the D

    Thanks all

  12. All of the sudden yal break loose with good stuff. Many thanks. Do you use the burner in front or back? Most of my sstuff will require 1 open end. Tied to that is you said you kept the front breathing, pretty positive you mean burner barely on? And how should i shape my burning. Chamber? I ve only got the kaowool they sent thats stuck to the sides. I do have 5 lbs of kasto coming i could fill it with.

    Thanks a million yal

  13. Wow. Thanks so so much.  If i make a d or oval, will i be bringing the back of the blanket into play? (Need to kastolite it) The burner part really sucks because that is exactly as it was in box when dlvd. Thanks for noticing though. Should i try it 2 burner to see or not even try. This is a pic of the remaining burner i have. No reducer. Second one is a closeup to make sure.( i do believe you) thanks again, i hope this rolls quick.

    Thank you

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    By rolls quick i meant the labor of packing forge

     

    Thats really good stuff above. Even what to do with the remaining two burners. Great help, thanks 

  14. Did mikey write that on mine or is that standard? I cant find it. It sounds like what i remember, this is after metrakote right. Was it run increasing gas until the steam stops? Thanks to those helping without being asked. Maybe its the warmth today. Thanks again to helpers. I just want this stuff so i can stay alone and not bother anyone. Bad instruction got me back in only a buttered year. You guys seem alot helpfuller. Thanks

  15. Thanks for respirator idea. Id forgotten buying one because ive only used it once.

    Thank you for helping

    And "Mikey" sorry i missed your drill a hole part. That sounds exactly as i vaguely remember it and im searching for your post now.

    Thanks guys and have a great week.

    Really, thanks for help. Ill dissappear after these questions for a year again unless the forge outlives 1 year. I still read, just post free

    Tx

  16. There isnt anything about vevors performance i could find, especially w metrakote. I gave up and bought 5 lb of kastolite. I also havent been able to find out about cutting back the wool an inch so i can kastolite it and cover wool 100%. Youre right about searches. I noticed that every google search i was making kept showing here as first few choices but i could never find it first.

    Thanks and have a good week.

  17. Where are you at thats holiday today? Canadian Queens Day? Ill always wait for good info but i get nervous when im hijacked by trolls( ii think). I hate having to write to people id like help from in the same paragraph as i respond to what other people havent done and dont want to see someone else succeed at. Unfortunately everything seems rushed to beat trolls. Youve got good points about timing and i hope sometime to read your ideas.

    Thanks and happy something day. Aim for whites of eyes.

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