OuchThatsHot

I recently went through some organizing of my metal stock. Bought a number of steel shelving brackets and lag bolted them to wall studs. This gets the longer pieces above the side man door. I shouldn’t need to put much more up there.

Prior to getting this up it was pretty much a tripping hazard and prevented wheeling things around.

Evaporust will thin out parkerizing and remove bluing from firearms unfortunately but, it works great for shop tool maintenance.

I just put a bunch of rusty 3/4” ball bearings in a plastic tub of Evaporust last night as I going though cleaning tools over the winter.

Great suggestion. I’ve got some recycled thinner gauge wide angle iron that should work well for making a stable stacking platform for the forge ends.

A box of K-26 insulating bricks are here. Next I’ll fabricate a framework to utilize them as doors. Still need to get Plistex ordered.

I’m starting out with a Mr. Volcano forge. I did assemble mine following all instructions with the rigidizer and the Satanite refractory. For the minimal cost, I figured why not. To boost the internal temp I’m going to use, as suggested here, K-26 bricks (already have a dozen on hand)for doors and coating Plistix 900f on top of the Satanite. I do have an empty Propane tank and 3 Frosty T burners ready to build a bigger forge if or when needed.

After a few firings all spot welds have held. I did grind a few burrs off from their spot weld cleanup initially to keep from getting cut on them.

On 12/11/2021 at 6:52 PM, Frosty said:

You're folding that up nicely, have plans for it?

Not necessarily I wanted to test out hammering with both hands also test leaving the rail loose. The rail needs to clearly be secured so it works in my favor vs moving around. 

First bending of steel for me. Making an anvil stand, a more secure forge stand, and insulating firebricks will be a priority. My shoulder worked out ok for hammering. Looks like this is going to be a go for me.

Plistex it will be, thanks for the suggestions. I do like that it’s a bit more than just a wash.

Possibly it could fill in some of the hairline cracks that appeared after the Satanite dried. Maybe these cracks really are not an issue.

Now that I know there is likely some trapped moisture still in the insulating blanket between the stainless shell and Satanite. Should I drill a couple 1/8 - 1/4” holes near the edge by the stainless in the Satanite to help release steam? Once I know my forge is all dry, I’ll get the Plistex ordered.

Would there be a better size from one over another in what is available for K-26 insulating bricks? My local places only have the fireplace bricks so it will be an on-line order.

Thanks for the warm Welcome.

“Ouch” for short.

Everyone likes pics. These were some of my inspiration to keep poking at it. A friend donated the stand, the propane tank was intended for another project but might go towards a second forge, and some freebie hand me down hammers. I bought the newer book and the other two were given to me.

I’m not sure the hobby is for me but I’ve kind of jumped in. This is going to be a test to see if my shoulder will allow the hammer swinging. Old codger with Rotator issues.
Got a cheap forge after seeing a few YouTube reviews. Followed the forge instructions to get it ready and a have piece of rail to beat on. Also bought some pre cut tongs to build my tools and learn basic techniques.

I had picked up enough parts to make (3) Frosty T burners, and have an empty propane tank to make a proper forge in 2022 if all goes well.

This weekend I got the initial firing of the forge done. Still has trapped moisture in the blanket since I can hear moisture crackling/boiling off and some water weeped out between the spot welded seam.

My phone didn’t capture the blue flame from the burner in this pic but it warmed up well past my infrared laser 999F limit within a short run time on the 4th heat cycle - cool down . My refractory has a number of hairline cracks. Satanite is the refractory that came in the kit. I rigidized the blanket prior. Also thinking about getting ITC-100 to top off on the forge to get as much performance as I can from it. Also need to pick up a box of fire bricks and modify my forge stand better. 

My 6 tongs came with nice color detailed instructions that even a brute like myself could follow.

What ever you beat on is an anvil, right? I’ve got some 4” hardwood planks to cut down and make an anvil stand. I’m planning on making it a little bigger in case I get a regular anvil down the road too.