Daniel95
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Posts posted by Daniel95
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That is actually what I am leaning towards also, because I wouldnt have to get the extension cord out. Only problem is some of the hand cranks go for 100 plus, and i dont trust my wood working skills enough to make bellows. Do you know where I could get either of these cheaply (<$30)? I could find some hand cranks for 10 to 20 bucks, but I dont know if they would be garbage or not.
Sorry for all the questions,
Dan
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Thanks Frosty,
Always open to constructive criticism. I'll make sure to keep that in mind, becuase I dont want to damage the tool. I am a youngster so I know I will continue to make plenty of mistakes. It is people like you who prevent me from doing more damage. Thanks again!
Happy forging,
Dan
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While we are talking about fuel, I have a quick question. I currenly still use a charcoal side blast forge. After reading about Anthracite I heard that charcoal is actually a bit better, so I am still thinking about anthracite, but for now charcoal is just peachy.
Anway, my question is about my blower setup. Currently I use a standard cicular cage fan (for cooling off humans). It works but it doesnt quite get the charcoal hot enough. Would you guys recomend a hiar dryer or a hand crank would work better? I know with charcoal there is a fine line of too much air and not enough air, so some input would be helpful.
Ps. If you want pictures let me know, I just dont know how to change the bandwidth of the pictures, dont want to anger mods or users.
God Bless,
Daniel
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Wow, that is interesting!
I checked out that website (NJ Baron), and it isnt too bad. I could get roughly 3 feet of 1075 or 1084 for around $25. Thanks for recommending that!
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Thanks for the help Thomas. Forgive me for misusing more terminology . lve got plenty to learn. Anyway, I think buying online is a grand idea, because I dont think I can afford a ton of steel. Thanks for recommending that, it makes lots of sense.
Happy forging!
Daniel
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Sorry Frosty for my poor terminology,
I have done plenty of research on metallurgy, but I can see how "carbon steel" is too broad of a term (I guess anything from mild steel to cast iron is technically carbon steel)
Thanks for pointing that out.
God bless,
Daniel
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That is a bummer but its ok. Ill check the thing you posted Irondragon. Thanks for the help guys.
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Sure, I like cheap too!
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Thanks GaurdedDig! I am curious, do you know if West Side Steel carries any decent carbon steels? I am planning to make some blades eventually but don't know where to get the steel (cant really use mystery steel for knives). Thanks!
Blessings,
Daniel
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Wow! I might switch to coal if I can get it for that price (I have used coal at a class, I think it worked quite good). Thanks for the info, Ill have to check that out.
Blessings,
Daniel
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Thanks for your input guys. Fuel has really been a large impediment to forging for me. Frosty, thanks for the detailed insrtuctions. If I can get my hands on a 55 gallon drum I might try that out. I would like to clarify, something you said earlier:
2 hours ago, Frosty said:Coal works as forge fuel but it's a lot more hassle than it's worth if you can find something else.
Are you talking about charcoal and coal? I thought coal was ideal, not charcoal, but I could be wrong. In Fargo my I think my only options are charcoal, propane, and corn (I have googled but coal is really expensive to ship here. I also couldnt find any pickups). I have used propane but it is just a little too much money for me to maintain. So really my only options are corn and charcoal (unless I could find coal)
So I think I will cook up some charcoal to save for short sessions and start a yard fire for longer ones (I like that idea Thomas). I might try some corn one day.
Thanks for your help, and if you have any more nuggets of wisdom to share I am open to them.
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Thanks for replying Thomas! After hearing how you make charcoal, I think I must be doing it wrong. What I do is spend a few hours cutting up dead trees in my backyard until I have a sizable pile of firewood. Then I cram a 30 gallon galvanized trashcan full of 2 by 4s. I set that horizontally onto a yard fire and let the can "cook" for 7-10 hours (Disclaimer: I am aware of the dangers of zinc poisoning, so I always make sure to be careful). Throughout the day I have to actively add more wood so that there is a fire burning all day. Then after this is all said and done, I have a decent amount of charcoal that will last for a few hours. Then I will have to rinse and repeat...
So if I have this clear, you just start a fire and take the coals that form? Where do you store the coals, because in my experience charcoal without forced air can burn for a while. Thanks for the help, because less time making fuel means more time in the forge
God Bless,
Daniel
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This article piqued my curiosity. I read the whole article, and I think I would like to switch to corn. Coal is unavailable in my area (that I know of), so I have been making charcoal. However, for how much energy it takes to make charcoal it is hardly worth it. I could buy 150 lbs of corn for $22, so I am curious, about how many hours would that last (in your standard JABOD)?
God Bless,
Daniel
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I agree, very useful.
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That would make a lot of sense. My adobe was too wet then. I'll put that in the back of my mind for the future. Thanks pnut.
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Lol. No, I should have metioned that. The pipe is a steel pipe with a little white paint on it. About the clay... I dont have pure clay, but the dirt about 1 foot down has a high-ish clay content (the dirt is moldable). Would that still work?
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Hi all,
After roughly a week or two I was able to build the African double mound forge. Pictures below.
I dug a trench roughly 4" by 5", and have a few 2 by 4 scraps in the hole so it doesnt collapse.
Then, I mixed up some adobe. This is my first time, so I just tried to make a good consistency. In the 12 gallon plastic bin I put a lot of dirt and clay. I mixed in a few scoops of wood ash, a gallon or two of sand, and a good amout of dried plant matter (was from a flower stems, similar to straw). I mixed until it was nice and smooth. It had roughly the consistency of concrete (without as many lumps). It had no problem being molded.
As for building the mounds, I simply put some bricks next to the hole and covered them in a good layer of adobe (roughly 2 to 4 inches deep).
I think it will work well (it is really just a hole in the ground), but am a little concerned because the adobe cracked pretty badly. Right now (4 hours since application) it is hard and is all together, I just dont know what to do about the cracks. Is there a way to repair it?
Any how, there is a detailed analysis. Thanks for all the help guys. For all you Christians out there, have a happy Easter!
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Ok, that sounds good.
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Ok. Thanks for letting me know. Do I need to keep sanding where the flat meets the curve?
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Thanks guys!
I have gleaned some good info from this post here. Thomas, I like your idea of using cold chisels to make into hot chisels. And Pnut, those were some easy looking tongs. I might try that. Whenever I get time I will try to forge some up and will post here. God Bless!
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Ok. Thanks!
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There is a place called west side steel in West Fargo. I should probably go there and see what they got.
Do you have any suggestions for common steels to make punches and chisels? I know that those need heat treat, so mild steel wouldnt work.
Thanks!
Corn Forge
in Solid Fuel Forges
Posted
Sure, Ill have to keep my eyes peeled. I am assuming TPAAAT references " Thomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique?"