Pwknives
-
Posts
3 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by Pwknives
-
-
Great to hear from you Frosty. I was hoping to pick your brain. I am a Alaska smith myself. Sterling. I will add .y location to my profile. Thanks.
I was curious if plugging some holes with kaowool would work or not. Didn't want to build a bomb. That is what I will try now.
I do not run the forges together. One box is for dry forging and the other for flux.
I ended up using a mig tip because copper is easier to drill with those small bits then steel.
Thanks so much for your expertise, I have been following your posts. And please stop in on your next trip to the peninsula.
Thanks again
PW
-
I just finished the build of 2 ribbon forges. These are the first I have built and I am having trouble with back burn.
They light great but if I tune it to a reducing flame that produces a small dragons breath it will back burn once the forge heats up. If i increase the air supply to cool the ribbon it does not back burn but also does not get hot.
The only thing I can think of is I have to many holes. My burner is 12"×3" with 35 23/64" (crayon) holes. 2" supply pipe feed by a 4" blower producing 300 cfm. I do have a gate valve after the blower. I am running a regulator but not a needle valve for a propane supply. I have tried several different mig tips for fuel supply .035 and .042. It back burns fast with the .035.
I have tried Propain pressure from 7psi to 15psi
I see in Wayne Coe build he uses 26 crayons.
To reduce holes to test it do I have to cast a new burner or is there a way to plug these to dial it in before I cast a new burners?
Or any other feed back would be much appreciated. If I had hair it would be pulled out by now. Very frustrating.
Paul
Ribbon forge back burning
in Ribbon Burners
Posted
Yes we are. And I will.take you up on that invite someday for sure.
I plugged 9 holes. I am getting a sweet dragon's breath at 10psi.
My question frosty is "what is the proper flame structure? I am welder and work with neutral flames with a torch. Do I want the same cone structure or what I call a oxidizing flame to prevent burn back? Guess the question is do you use so much air the cone leaves the block?
Thanks again and I think I am getting alot closer.
PW