TeH_Chach

I did, thank you Thomas. @IronAlchemy Do you just use a torch to get that 1000 degree temper? set it in the forge checked colors frequently?

9 hours ago, IronAlchemy said:

I have dozens of S7 tools forged without heat treating in an oven and have yet to have a failure so it is generally pretty forgiving. 

So it will work fine if i just let it air harden and i can let her rip?

I misspoke when I made the post. s7 air hardens so I guess it would be hard for it to normalize. 

On 2/2/2019 at 3:19 PM, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Why S7 for a hot working tool?

I've seen different smiths sell hot working tools made out of s7, and i can get drops for cheap lol Do you have another steel you would recommend? If you do could you include the heat treatment method that you find works best for you?

Hey everyone, I've searched the heat treating thread for about 20 mins now and i'm having a hard time finding info on the proper heat treat for s7 hot punches. I made a slitting chisel a few weeks back out of 3/4 s7 round stock. I like the look of the curved working end, so that's how i forged it. I normalized it twice and heated the steel to a brightish orange and let it air cool. Drew a dark straw temper for the working end. It worked great for a few minutes then snap, the chisel broke right in the center. (it was about 6 inches long). Any tips for the heat treatment of s7 would be much appreciated.

On 8/16/2017 at 11:57 AM, Charles R. Stevens said:

To throw a wrench in the discussion, many of the folks badmouthing rebar will also recommend A36 as "good mild steel. They both suffer from the same issues, they are made to an engineering specification and not generally to a steel formula. Some rebar acualy will make exeptable hot work tools, but it's all mystery metal. 

I keep an eye out for mud flap hangers. They are square pieces of spring stock.  

Are you sure they are spring steel? When we buy them from our vendor they are super cheap comparatively to the springs we buy.

Matter of fact, you can have the whole piece. Now that I have those jackhammer bits, I can make punches and a hot cut out of them. Let me know when you have some free time.

Just now, JHCC said:

Tools for the treadle hammer. 

(Not to be confused with Tea for the Tillerman.)

Teach me how to make a punches and you can have the left over

I actually took jhccs’ advise and called a Home Depot, got 3 for 9 bucks! My uncle works at one near me and he snagged them. 

22 hours ago, JHCC said:

Trade you for some of that S-7?

What do you have in mind for the s7?

On 5/25/2018 at 9:04 AM, JHCC said:

Almost all of my jackhammer bit supply (with the exception of some unusual offerings that IFI member Stitch got at the industrial surplus place) were obtained from the tool rental counter at Home Depot for a buck or two each. In the most recent instance, the guy told me that the bits only fit a model that they hadn't carried in years!

Here's a bucketful that IFI member Cavpilot2k picked up at a local tool rental place:

No wonder why i cant find any hammer bits local, you have them all JHCC  Do you have one you could sell or spare me? i need to make a hot cut something awful

thanks guys

any good uses for the O1? it's a 3/4x 19" drop

Hey everyone, I picked up a couple of O1 and S7 drops today, I need to make some punches which would be a better steel for a slot punch?

This is my first anvil. 6x6 v cut block for cutting pipe that I welded to a 12x12 3/4” plate. It’s what I’ve been using for the finish work.

Thank you everyone for the information! I was just under the assumption that the face of an anvil was supposed to be flat. All of the input has changed my mind about machining the top. I'm glad I looked for counsel before I went forward with the machine shop.

North Ridgeville 

11 minutes ago, arkie said:

DON'T MILL OR GRIND IT!!!!! The polishing you did is sufficient. Just hammer and forge your work on it. That will eventually work the surface more smooth. The departure from perfectly flat can work to your advantage in straightening some pieces.

So the lack of a level surface is ok? Would it be acceptable to clean the rest of the face as I did the front 4 or so inches?

Good Afternoon,

 This is my first post so forgive me if I’ve broken any rules. 

I have ave a pre solid wrought stamped PW anvil that needs some work done to the face. At some point someone repaired almost the entire surface with weld. With that being said there is still a lovely ring and the rebound is about ~70%. There is a lot of perocity in the welds and the face is no longer flat. I ground the blemishes out with a 4” grinder from a grinding disk to 120g flap disk. I was able to grind it smooth but it’s not flat. I called a local machine shop and asked them if they would deck it for me. The difference between the lowest point and the highest is about an 1/8th of an inch. I’m thinking it will probably be ok if they mill that much material off the face. Can someone please advise?

Thanks in advance!