Zeke Zabo

One of the finest books I have seen (and owned) is Cut And Thrust Weapons by Eduard Wagner. For a reference on what was really used, take a gander.

We had an exchange student (our 3rd) from the Czech Republic (Prague). As we got to know each other, he expressed his passion for medieval arms and armour  and the re-enactment groups he had participated in. He told of his and his friends research and how they had to wait in line to study a reference book at the main library. He talked at length at how rare and great this book was and proud that it had a Czech author.

I mentioned that I had a pretty good book and maybe he would like to see it. He , somewhat reluctantly, agreed to take a look implying that it could not be as good (he was a little arrogant).

As I pulled it from the shelve he was shocked, I thought he would need to change his underware......

Of course, it was Cut And Thrust Weapons. I can still see the expression on his face....

Regards,

Zeke

Jim Coke:

Nice! With that example I'm thinking welding on a stick for the hardie will also let me hold sheet or flat/blade right on the anvil.

Question: Are those two different vice grips. Top one looks like the hooked jaw is welded to the angle and the second looks like the flat is welded. Both would be great.

Thank you 

Zeke

Thank you gents.

I haven't done much welding and knew the vice grips were sorta job specific, but I'll put them to a good alternative use. I never saw a levered snip before and it is better than the snip above it. It needs sharping and i'll search here for the best way.

The flea market was great (Kane County, il) and almost everything I bought averaged about a buck. I did find one large (2 lb?) ball peen and dropped $7 as it fit a need.

Regards, 

Zeke

Home from the flea market and these followed me:

Averaged a buck a piece. 

I few questions if I may:

What is the piece/pin on the bottom?

What is the vice grip second from  the bottom for? 

Have you seen the levered snip and for what? (has a PAT 1909 label and Mfr I can't make out)

Can I use the snips to cut hot metal... will it soften/ruin them?

Anybody use the drills (on the top) as punches? 

Picked up a bunch of other stuff, especially different chisels. By the time I got back to the car, my arms were falling off. Had not planned on going so i did not bring a backpack.

Any other comments always welcome.

Yeah, I know, a lot of questions for one picture but this is the best place to ask the experts!

Regards, 

Zeke

Was it a door stop for the bank vault door?

arkie: I'll keep looking. And add a bead of caulk on my buckets to see what happens.

Garage sales and flea markets are a whole new thing now!  With a (wanna be) blacksmith eye, I see a ray of light and hear a heavenly choir on things I may not have even seen before. The looking is almost as much fun as swinging the hammer.

Regards, Zeke

Frosty: Thanks for the heads up. So far I have just used them for coal and general carrying as I am moving stuff to a new tent/shop.

I was thinking I'd pick up something water tight (and puncture/heat resistant) at the Elkhorn Flea Market (Wisconsin)  this weekend but the rain on Fri-Sat had turned the whole area into a sea of mud. Hoofing  a small stock tank (or wash bin) for a mile back to the pickup through that morass just seemed like too much effort.  I just picked up stuff I could carry in a backpack. Next time.... hey,  maybe the Kane County Flea (Illinois) this coming weekend. 

Now that I'm swinging a hammer again, and seeing the treasures folks have following them home,  I see Flea markets in a whole different light.

Zeke

I just picked up 2 six gallon cans at the big box store. $15 each with the lid. For quench and fill with vermiculite of slow cooling.....

Sorry Frosty, should have posted a picture:

I've bought them by the case  (back when I used to, surprisingly, attach stuff to beams) but buy them now as a couple at a time. The next use is to attach an axle to the lever forge legs so I can add wheels and move it in/out of my make shift work shop..... a tent-like car port.

Regards, Zeke

How about using a beam clamp to attach a counter weight. They have a 1/4-20 threaded hole and a screw when you buy them at the local box store. I used one to fix/attach a missing fan blade when restoring my handle forge. They come in a bunch of sizes and have a ton of uses.

Nice. A curly tail and ears make it steam pork....

Wow! That was a great video. It answered tons of questions I did not know I had. An inspiration to someone getting back in the heat.

It is also encouraging to learn that hopefully some day I will drop stuff much less often than I do now.....

Thank you,

Zeke

13 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

33000 would be around 1918-1919, (they didn't make an 88000 according to AinA)

Thank you. Now I can imagine the original owner, after a hard weeks work, enjoying the Flappers at the Speakeasy. Gotta love the sense of history.

Thank you for looking ThomasPowers. I don't know what the marks on the underside are....

Can you tell me anything else about the anvil? What the "7" and "L" mean and how old? Where can I research it? It's always more interesting when using a piece of history to understand more about it. Keeps the world in perspective.

Regards, Zeke

Another Arm & Hammer inquiry:

This one feels like 80 pound-ish (don't have a scale) and has it markings worn. The arm and hammer looks like it was hand engraved with a chisel.... or is just so worn it has that look. It does say "WROUGHT IRON" an is marked with a "7" and "L" where others seem to have the weight. The front has the serial number 33000. The manufacturer label is not clear.

I picked up the whole outfit from a gentleman who had it in his basement for 50 years and I paid a couple hundred bucks. We were both happy to have it in a good home and being used again. Included was a lever forge that I am getting up and running (under topic Lever Forge). It's been years and I can't wait to make smoke and noise again.

Is it an Arm And Hammer? Any other info  available?

Thank you,

Zeke

Here are some pics. I'll be measuring the hub of the fan and leaves. I think some sheet metal "origami"  will let me bend it so flaps can be bent parallel to the hub with the leaves in the right orientation  and then self-drilling sheet metal screws can be  used.

Any thoughts on lubing the tapered bearing ends in the casing. Thinking high-temp grease should be okay.

Thanks again,

Zeke

Thanks JHCC. I have read the "read this first".... of course after my first post. I welcome any etiquette or content suggestions.

Your suggestion is what I was thinking, sheet metal with a little extra weight to make everything balanced. Attaching it is the issue as the hub is cast iron and I am not sure how to drill it. Do you think that grinding a fresh surface and an epoxy will work? 

Hello all, new member here. I have the same forge and have it running. However, the fan seemed unbalanced and after taking it apart found that one of the fan blade "ears" is broken (and missing). Any ideas on "replacing" the whole blower blade or just the one ear?

Haven't hit metal for years, and then found this whole outfit including stump, anvil, tools, forge, etc for a couple hundred bucks. Can't wait to start making noise and smoke.

Thanks to all

Zeke