Snydertech

3 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

In the future, rotate the fire pot 90. Working from the side is traditinal, especially when you get around to adding a side draft hood

Are you saying rotate my pot so the notches are from front to back instead of left to right?  

10 minutes ago, Jackdawg said:

I'd say your outer two rows of drilled holes are probably redundant. No great issue just leaving them there (as long as nothing flamable is under your forge, as hot ash and small coals may drop through them)

I'd widen up the entry slot / notch, (give you a bit more room to move) back side is probably fine as is.

Otherwise looking good!

 

I've just dropped my coke forge in to a similar tray. So I am really hoping your idea works well 

 

 

The holes in the bottom as you see it is actually holes in a cast floor drain that I plan on using.  There are 5 'lug' holes already there that I plan to use bolts to hold the drain disc on.  that will go on top of the flange that I still need to buy and drop in the top.  basically the flange will just give me the threaded 2" bottom hole that I can attach a pipe to.  

What do I need to think about now to integrate a 'clinker breaker' in the design?

9 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

I guess having a welder and tons of brake rotors makes some things easier on building the rotor forge. And the whole rotor forge is way cheaper then even buying just a new ready made forge pot. 

It's really just two sides of the cheaper forge coin in my opinion. I built a rotor forge setup ( same as mine)for my friend and having made a few already it was quick and easy. 

Having the right tool for the job definitely does make life easier.  Maybe one of these days I will learn to weld.  Before having an interest in building a forge, I scrapped dozens of brake drums/rotors.  I guess I need to be more of a hoarder!  

Just now, Daswulf said:

If your fan will work with a " dimmer" switch then yeah. 

I use a variable speed router controller from HF on mine. Has the plug and outlet already on it and full on, off, and variable switch on it. before that I made a gate to go over the inlet of my blower to adjust the amount of air flow by hand. 

Perfect!  Will go to HF today to see what they have. 

17 minutes ago, 4elements said:

Auto supply stores carry an assortment of exhaust pipe repair pieces that will assemble with U- bolts, no welding, no threading. I haven't seen a T but maybe you could find a Y. They also have flex.

Good idea... I go to the auto parts stuff almost weekly anyway, not sure why I didn't think of exhaust parts.  I have the exhaust pipe from an old diesel truck I used to own, I will see if I can use that.  

1 hour ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Brake drum forges have been around since some one discovered that a model “T” drum and a pipe “T” would go to gether. The 2” pipe fittings will run a guy $50 or so, as well as the $ you invested in a drum. They work hut are a PITA to assemble.

a box of dirt, an 8” long 3/4” schedule 40 pipe nipple and a double action bed pump makes a nice little forge that handles 1” stock.

I wish you new guys would come here first.

That is awesome, and looks pretty danged easy to build.  You are absolutely right that it would have saved me some heartache and cash, however, I already am going down the road, might as well finish now.  Hey, at least I asked about the 1" pipe before using it ;-), do I get half credit there?  So... I am taking back the 1", searching for 2".  Swapping my huge blower for a smaller one and I need to make sure I put an air gate of some sort.  As for the air gate, do I 'need' this or can I get a rheostat type of device and just control current to the fan?  

~Dave

1 hour ago, Daswulf said:

From what I see the table is fine. You will have difficulty adding fuel to the fire with the tall lip. Personally I prefer using a rear Rotor that used the inner drum style e brake.

That is exactly what I set out looking for but could not find.  I went to metal scrap  yards and they wouldn't sell me anything at all, they just wanted to buy.  I went to several brake repair places and they didn't have anything.  I ended up going to autozone and had them find me something new.  Crazy!  In retrospect, I should have bought something with less of a lip.  It is about 3" deep, but has that huge lip on it so it extends above the table.  I figured I would place it in the table so I could pile some coal around it and make it work.

Regarding the pipe, I don't have a welder.  The only pipe I can find threaded that I can put a 'flange' on it and feed it into the pipe is 1" from the local box store.  I suppose I should take that back and check with a plumbing shop to see what they have.  I love the idea of the tractor exhaust flap.  I did just read your earlier post regarding that and will incorporate.  What about lining the bowl?  Any need?

My blower is very powerful, and I think too powerful.  It is actually made to pump up those big backyard inflatables.  Perhaps a hair dryer would work better for this application?

Thanks for the input!

1 hour ago, Glenn said:

You can use expandable metal clothes dryer vent to get the air from the blower to the twyere. Just leave an air gap between the blower and the dryer vent. Air the blower more directly to the pipe for more air, not so directly for less air.

Thank you for the input!

Also, I just bought 1" piping to do the air... I am now thinking it is too small?

Good morning all!  I am new to smithing and new to this site.  I am attempting to build a coal forge from some parts I have and want to get some feedback before I finish it.  I had a metal cart and put in a truck hub into it.  I notched out the sides to be able to put a longer piece in it in the future.  At the Bottom, I plan to put a pipe feeding air with a tee in it and attach a blower to the end.  The blower I want to put on a dimmer (not sure if this will work yet) so I can control the air flow.  I already have the blower, just needing to buy the piping. Does this look like a good approach so far?  What would you have done different?  I left some room on the side of the pot to be able to put up some fire bricks to build a side/top if needed.  Do I need to line the pot with anything? Thanks for the advice. 

Dave